TheSamba.com :: View topic

Fri Aug 03, 2007 8:52 pm

Is there a way to adjust the rest position of the brake and clutch pedals?

Max

Fri Aug 03, 2007 9:21 pm

But you adjust it until the brake freeplay is about 10mm or so. This is necessary to ensure enough freeplay in the master cylinder; otherwise you drag or lock your brakes. On the T3 you first have to remove the angled metal pan that covers the pedals (after removing the carpet, of course).

Tue Aug 14, 2007 9:53 pm

so the clutch and brake pedal position can be adjusted independently? I ask because the 68 square i just bought has the brake pedal a few inches foward of the clutch... i asked the P.O. about it and he said that he adjusted it like that to make it easier for his big ass feet... is that b.s?

Wed Aug 15, 2007 3:20 pm

One stop plate for both pedals. If you cock it a little, you can get the 2 different. Or if one pedal is worn.

Wed Aug 15, 2007 3:33 pm

Good stuff guys, thanks! I will give it a shot when I've saved enough for some new carpets.

Max

Thu Aug 16, 2007 3:07 pm

You should be able to pull up the carpet with out destroying it in order to make the adjustments

Thu Aug 16, 2007 3:26 pm

And you have to take out the metal plate aroound the pedals.
There is a special tool for getting them exact.
Just be sure you have 1mm clearance between the brake pedal pushrod, and the master cylinder when done.

Thu Aug 16, 2007 4:31 pm

redbug74 wrote: You should be able to pull up the carpet with out destroying it in order to make the adjustments
Sure, and I've already done that a few times. This just isn't an emergency and I'll just combine the two jobs.

Max

Thu Aug 16, 2007 8:28 pm

Russ Wolfe wrote: One stop plate for both pedals. If you cock it a little, you can get the 2 different. Or if one pedal is worn.
do you think that this looks like it was adjusted WAY foward or does it look worn.... or both?

Thu Aug 16, 2007 9:12 pm

Better check for wear or rusted stop plate on that one. And the clutch pedal is FUBAR. Even the stop on the firewall is bent.
Is the floor rotted in that area.
And vacuum that dirt out. That is what rots the brake line. It draws moisture.

Fri Aug 17, 2007 8:30 pm

Russ Wolfe wrote: Better check for wear or rusted stop plate on that one. And the clutch pedal is FUBAR. Even the stop on the firewall is bent.
Is the floor rotted in that area.
And vacuum that dirt out. That is what rots the brake line. It draws moisture.
i vacuumed it out and it doesnt appear rotted out....in fact, very little corrosion at all... anyway.. it looks like I'll be able to bend that stop back up, but Im not understanding how the clutch pedal is FUBAR, so ive included a couple pics... my problem (one of many) is that i know that something is wrong, i just dont know WHAT is wrong... anyway...

Sat Aug 18, 2007 8:03 am

so what do you think... should i be looking for another pedal assy, or does it look like these can be adjusted??

Sat Aug 18, 2007 9:30 am

Take it out. It will probably be obvious whether it's usable when it's out.

Sat Aug 18, 2007 11:41 am

wildside wrote: Russ Wolfe wrote: Better check for wear or rusted stop plate on that one. And the clutch pedal is FUBAR. Even the stop on the firewall is bent.
Is the floor rotted in that area.
And vacuum that dirt out. That is what rots the brake line. It draws moisture.
i vacuumed it out and it doesnt appear rotted out....in fact, very little corrosion at all... anyway.. it looks like I'll be able to bend that stop back up, but Im not understanding how the clutch pedal is FUBAR, so ive included a couple pics... my problem (one of many) is that i know that something is wrong, i just dont know WHAT is wrong... anyway...

Your floor is bad. That plate should be flat on the floor, with just the lip sticking up. And your clutch pedal is laying down now, so the cable is probably unhooked.
Take the pedal cluster out, and see exactly what you have.

Sun Aug 19, 2007 7:00 pm

"Your floor is bad."

X2... My '67 Bug had that problem. I ended up using a longer bolt, and backing it up from underneath with a large flat plate (bent a little to match the ribs.)

Wed Oct 10, 2007 2:44 pm

i finally got up under there, and this is what i found after i removed the bolt and plate...

what should i do??

Wed Oct 10, 2007 3:59 pm

I fixed mine in that area because of stress cracks. When you add corrosion it gets worse. You can file the rust back and wire weld or braze a new metal patch to reinforce it. Vacuum again first. It looks like you may have enough on the forward area to retain the location easily. Looks like it may be mostly cracked and pushed forward and to the right. It may not be as rusty as it looks.

Wed Oct 10, 2007 6:02 pm

I had a slightly similar situation with a much smaller hole that was a bit rusty around the edges. I took a piece of thick steel (about 6mm thick) that was 2" x 5". I drilled a hole in the middle of it and put it on the underside of the pan. This size piece of steel is similar to the size of the pan ribs, so it will fit flush up into the rib where the original hole was drilled into. After spraying anti-rust all around the area, I dropped a bolt down from inside the car (through the little bracket piece on top, through the pan, and through the steal bar underneath). I then put a bolt on the underside of the steal bar under the pan. I used lock washers between the head of the bolt and the bracket inside the car and also between the steal bar and the nut on the underside. Once it was tightened (don't overtighten it as the pan might compress), I sprayed the whole assembly with anti-rust again. Don't spray the last time until you're sure though because it's gacky to try to back the nut out after it's been sprayed. G'luck

Wed Oct 10, 2007 7:27 pm

Mike Fisher wrote: Take it out. It will probably be obvious whether it's usable when it's out.
i just checked the Bentley and all i can find is "adjustment" instructions... can anyone provide some insight on how to remove the pedal assy... i just dont want to screw anything up any more than it already is...

Wed Oct 10, 2007 7:54 pm

wildside wrote: Mike Fisher wrote: Take it out. It will probably be obvious whether it's usable when it's out.
i just checked the Bentley and all i can find is "adjustment" instructions... can anyone provide some insight on how to remove the pedal assy... i just dont want to screw anything up any more than it already is...

Be warned about removing the pedal assy.... Once you get it out, it can be a HUGE bitch to get it back in if you havent done it before. The clutch cable/pedal is a real PITA to get back together and might require the inexperienced person an extra set of hands to help. Also, an extra bit of time, patience, and creative curse words.

To get it out:
1) remove the nut at the end of the clutch cable where it attatches to the tranny and remove the accel cable at the carb linkage.
2) once you have pulled back the carpet and the tilted floor plate in front of the pedals, use a 17 mm socket with an extention to pull the two bolts holding the pedal assy to the tunnel.
3) unbolt the brake pedal pushrod from the brake pedal.
4) wiggle the assy out, disconnecting the accel cable and then the clutch cable from their respective pedals.

Sounds easy and for the most part it is. Its getting it back in that sucks.