TheSamba.com :: View topic - Up in smoke... Bus fires... don't let it happen to you!

Wed Jan 20, 2010 10:24 am

There are only a few things you really need to know to change your fuel lines.

*Use the proper FI rated hose

*Use the correct clamps for said hose

Make sure everything is neat, clean, and tight when you are done.

The last time I changed my hoses I picked up the Goodyear flouroelastomer lined hose for about $6 a foot from Schucks and a few extra clamps from NAPA for $1 each. NAPA also has material that works well to replace the original sheaths.

http://www.goodyearep.com/productsdetail.aspx?id=5144

Fri Jan 29, 2010 9:41 pm

Would anyone recommend using metal braided fuel lines?

Fri Jan 29, 2010 9:55 pm

Quick question on the FI hoses.

On my bus the small length of line that goes from the injector rail to the actual injector, does it have to be a certain length? I just cut them so they fit without getting in the way, but do I need to have it exactly 35mm as per Ratwell specs?

Fri Jan 29, 2010 9:56 pm

Yes, a local performance builder used stainless braided teflon line. Not sure how he treated the ends. But the hose itself sure beats our fiber braided rubber hose.

Fri Jan 29, 2010 10:02 pm

maximan1 wrote: Quick question on the FI hoses.

On my bus the small length of line that goes from the injector rail to the actual injector, does it have to be a certain length? I just cut them so they fit without getting in the way, but do I need to have it exactly 35mm as per Ratwell specs?

What ever works is fine. You need a little length so they have some flex, but don't want them so long that the manifold rubs against stuff.

Fri Jan 29, 2010 10:04 pm

Wildthings wrote: maximan1 wrote: Quick question on the FI hoses.

On my bus the small length of line that goes from the injector rail to the actual injector, does it have to be a certain length? I just cut them so they fit without getting in the way, but do I need to have it exactly 35mm as per Ratwell specs?

What ever works is fine. You need a little length so they have some flex, but don't want them so long that the manifold rubs against stuff.

Thanks, that is what I was hoping for.

Sun Feb 07, 2010 7:13 pm

Found the source of my gas smell with a full tank and hard corners. Yes the firewall can be removed without dropping the engine.

The drivers side "green one" as I found it, notice the gas staining. :shock:

I thought there might be a crack or something, didn't expect to see that.

All fixed now, did all of them. Used clamps for that extra piece of mind.

Whew, lucky on that one.

Thu Feb 25, 2010 4:32 pm

To get at the fuel line from the tank? Mine is 40 years old. So I'm pretty sure it needs replacing. I've taken off the rear wheel to get a look at the line from the tank, but the access was terrible. Any suggestions?

Thu Feb 25, 2010 5:47 pm

JT's Westy wrote: To get at the fuel line from the tank? Mine is 40 years old. So I'm pretty sure it needs replacing. I've taken off the rear wheel to get a look at the line from the tank, but the access was terrible. Any suggestions?

Ummmm....jack, jackstands, ramps.....raise the rear of the Bus, slide yourself under it.

Fri Feb 26, 2010 12:03 pm

Notice how the hardlines don't line up with each other without the hose, and only the one side has a clip to secure the hardline? It's the same as the lines in the left side under the vent to the engine compartment. While we're on the subject, how are the rest of the fuel & fuel vent lines? Charcoal canister installed?

Sat Feb 27, 2010 2:48 am

I have a 1969 Baja Bug, and the PO installed a fuel filter between the pump and carb. I know this is a fire hazard and that I should put the filter by the fuel tank, not engine.

But as far as the distributor being a fire hazard, What about building a splash screen out of sheet metal or something that would help prevent fuel being splashed onto the distributor in the event that the fuel line leaks and/or comes off?

Sat Feb 27, 2010 8:59 am

Mark wrote:
Notice how the hardlines don't line up with each other without the hose, and only the one side has a clip to secure the hardline? It's the same as the lines in the left side under the vent to the engine compartment. While we're on the subject, how are the rest of the fuel & fuel vent lines? Charcoal canister installed?

I ever so gently realigned the metal lines to fit with the plastic ones, including the one behind the spare tire well. I don't actually want to use the word "bent", I was much gentler than that and paranoid of causing cracks/stress fractures in the metal lines. I replaced all vent lines in this round including the ones at the charcoal canister, which is operational.

I replaced all engine side fuel lines a few years ago, and replaced several of the underside lines, but I am going to do a complete replace with the germansupply kit just so that all lines are the same age. After recent inspection I noticed one of the small lines underneath has the original looking crimp-style clamp, so it has me a bit worried until its replaced. Never can be too cautions when it comes to these lines.

Sun Feb 28, 2010 12:15 am

Here is a mock up of my idea

Basically made out of metal, a splash screen to cover the distributor in the event of a fuel leak. Lessening the chance of a fire.

I plan to build a prototype here in the near future.

.

Sun Feb 28, 2010 2:41 am

I don't see the point of that.

The fuel will still have to flow somewhere. And i think that's going to be on the exhaust?

Or maybe you have something that prevents putting the filter at the tank?

Sun Feb 28, 2010 10:12 am

jure-slo wrote: I don't see the point of that.

The fuel will still have to flow somewhere. And i think that's going to be on the exhaust?

Or maybe you have something that prevents putting the filter at the tank?

The fuel will flow somewhere, in a leak. But this will keep it from spraying on the distributor which is a main cause of VW fires.

The bracket won't be on the exhaust, but it will be near it.

I still plan to relocate the fuel filter by the tank, however, I see this as a safety precaution.

Sun Feb 28, 2010 11:45 am

wow, one of the first things i did to my bus was replace the fuel lines (after I cleaned out the fuel tank). no big deal. it's very sad to see those dead buses :(

Mon Apr 12, 2010 8:26 pm

Maybe posting the correct fuel line diameter for different buses and engines would be helpful. Using too large or too small fuel line is not good to do. :bay_red:

Fri Apr 23, 2010 10:09 am

I have a 77 (fuel injected).
Can anyone tell me how many feet of 7mm ID hose I need and roughly How many feet of 10mm ID hose I need?

Thanks,
Mike

Fri Apr 23, 2010 10:57 am

77westy wrote: I have a 77 (fuel injected).
Can anyone tell me how many feet of 7mm ID hose I need and roughly How many feet of 10mm ID hose I need?

Thanks,
Mike

7mm ID - get 12 feet and have a little left over for later
10mm ID - less than 6 inches

Thu Apr 29, 2010 4:22 pm

I already have a powder commercial fire extinguisher (larger size) that I have acquired,

However, am planning on purchasing 2 of these this evening and mounting them. Just bought the bus, not even attempted to turn the key until my Betley arrives and fuel lines are replaced...

http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardware-Safety-Sec...ogId=10053

Also can someone confirm whether a high pressure home hosepipe at the ready for the first time of starting would be a 'bad idea' as I have read one post that says it is, one that says it isnt...

Thanks