Joshua B |
Sun Nov 25, 2007 10:01 pm |
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So I am restoring a 58 dd panel that has been sitting for at least 15 years. I started removing the pedal and all of the controls. I was able to successfully remove everything, but the final part, the e-brake lever.
The cables and everything came out fine. It is just the pin that I am having a problem with. Either previously someone beat the pin just out of one side of the holding bracket (the u shaped bracket the pin slides through), or it slid partly out. It sat in there like this for a long time and rusted. I have tried getting it really hot and using a lubriating oil and I just can't brake it loose. Don't want to have to cut the whole U shaped bracket out any suggestions?
Oh the pin is pushed out toward the pedal side, and it it very hard to get a punch through with the heat tube in the way on the other side. ALso, is the U shaped bracket suppose to be straight or leaning (bent) to the left, driverside.
Any help would be great. |
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chrisflstf |
Sun Nov 25, 2007 10:43 pm |
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Before I destroyed the pin I was trying to remove, I'd get a replacement.
They dont come out well. |
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Campy |
Mon Nov 26, 2007 12:35 am |
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My 1958 walk-thru bus had its pin stuck and there was no way to get a punch in there to try and knock it out. In this case, I removed the whole housing, then removed the pin. The housing will have to be re-welded to the floor. |
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Mikee |
Mon Nov 26, 2007 12:56 am |
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Wolfsburg west sells pins, and one guy on here i know makes them.
But you will have to destroy the pin, I had a handle that was out of a bus just in the houseing and it took me almost six hours to get it out, I 1st tried to hamer, I tried head, I tried heat and cold, Then I drilled it out |
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hazetguy |
Mon Nov 26, 2007 8:21 am |
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soak it all you want, heat it all you want. chances are the pin has rusted to the e-brake lever and will require more drastic measures to get it out. especially if you live in a rust-belt area.
there just is not enough room under there to hammer on it with any great effectiveness, and if it has rusted to the lever, you won't get it out without cutting the pin (or maybe drilling it, as suggested). i have had them so frozen in there, that after cutting the pin from underneath, i needed a shop press to get the stub out of the lever, and even then it was difficult.
get a new pin and a fresh hacksaw blade.
there is enough room underneath to just barely fit a hacksaw blade in between the bracket and the sides of the ebrake lever, so that you can cut the pin into 3 pieces and then remove the lever and tap out the 2 little stubs of the pin. it's a pain in the butt and it takes a while to cut the pin, but that seems to me to be about the only way i have been able to get them out successfully if they are rusted. use much grease when re-installing.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=253993
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=253994
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Joshua B |
Mon Nov 26, 2007 7:14 pm |
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Thanks, I appreciate all of the advice. I am going to try cutting it like hazet guy suggests. Mine is half way through so I will only have to cut it on one side, that is if I can wedge the hack saw blade into that side.
Thanks again
Josh |
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splitboy |
Mon Nov 26, 2007 7:28 pm |
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I have that same problem with frankentruck (66DC) and was nearing wits end trying to figure out how to get it out. Thanks Hazetguy for this post and man I can't wait to get outside and commence to cutting that damed handle and get it out. Finally! |
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jeremyrockjock |
Mon Nov 26, 2007 8:02 pm |
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Cutting and replacing the pin is better than destroying the bracket.
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bherder |
Sat Mar 07, 2009 8:28 pm |
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Thanks for the tip. I've been trying to get the pin out of my bracket all winter long with no success.
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mtb7001 |
Sat Mar 07, 2009 11:48 pm |
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egad, I have a related ebrake question, the release button is stuck! I haven't gotten to taking it apart yet, what should I expect? I just backed off the cables to drive it. Yes, I have mucho crusto in the front. |
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campingbox |
Sun Mar 08, 2009 12:02 am |
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mtb7001 wrote: egad, I have a related ebrake question, the release button is stuck! I haven't gotten to taking it apart yet, what should I expect? I just backed off the cables to drive it. Yes, I have mucho crusto in the front.
Usually when the release buttom sticks it sticks down whick means you don't have an ebrake. If yours is stuck up I'd start spraying some penetrating oil down near the bottom on the front side, in that little channel. More than likely the piece that pivots at the bottom is sticky. Also if you can pull it back slightly and then push the button in that sometimes helps. |
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mr. warehouse |
Sun Mar 08, 2009 12:12 am |
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Use A LOT of heat as well.
I had this same problem with the Badger Bus.
I unscrewed the button, pulled out the rubber washer and heated everything. I also got some pliers on the top end of the rod and gradually starting moving it as well. Once things start moving your are in business. keep at it using penetrating oil (NOT WD40) and you'll be set. |
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bherder |
Sun Mar 08, 2009 10:12 am |
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mtb7001 wrote: egad, I have a related ebrake question, the release button is stuck! I haven't gotten to taking it apart yet, what should I expect? I just backed off the cables to drive it. Yes, I have mucho crusto in the front.
Thanks for reminding me. My release is stuck too. |
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campingbox |
Sun Mar 08, 2009 12:49 pm |
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mr. warehouse wrote: Use A LOT of heat as well.
I had this same problem with the Badger Bus.
I unscrewed the button, pulled out the rubber washer and heated everything. I also got some pliers on the top end of the rod and gradually starting moving it as well. Once things start moving your are in business. keep at it using penetrating oil (NOT WD40) and you'll be set.
I would skip the heat to start. If you can get it moving by other means then you will save the paint burn.
Study the parts list and get a feel for how they work and what pieces are supposed to pivot, then use a small punch and a hammer to tap these pieces back and forth while you are working oil into them. If it's an early bus, crawl underneath and make sure all of the points move and that the lower piece where the cables attach moves from left to right like it should. |
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jeremyrockjock |
Sun Mar 08, 2009 8:42 pm |
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I can make new ones with a zerk fitting for purchase if anyone is interested. Thats how the should have been made in the first place. |
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bherder |
Tue Mar 10, 2009 4:48 pm |
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jeremyrockjock wrote: I can make new ones with a zerk fitting for purchase if anyone is interested. Thats how the should have been made in the first place.
The hacksaw trick worked like a charm. Now I have the piece inside of the e-brake lever that I can't get out. I'm going to take it to a machine shop to get it out and not worry about it anymore. Ok, nub question, but what is a zerk fitting? Have a picture? I don't want to hastle with this thing in the future. |
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oring71 |
Tue Mar 10, 2009 5:05 pm |
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I have a NOS bracket if anyone destroyed theres and needs a new one.
Top right in this pic.
Thanks.
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jeremyrockjock |
Wed Mar 11, 2009 2:59 pm |
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bherder wrote: Ok, nub question, but what is a zerk fitting? Have a picture? I don't want to hastle with this thing in the future.
Zerk AKA grease fitting. I'll take some pics. |
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jeremyrockjock |
Sat Mar 14, 2009 5:00 pm |
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http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=756447 |
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hazetguy |
Sat Mar 14, 2009 5:47 pm |
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that is a great idea! my only question is how do you drive in the pin without damaging the grease fitting? do you install the fitting after the pin is installed? |
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