TheSamba.com :: View topic - -BUILDING the EFI Turbo- ~head Q's~

Thu Jul 03, 2008 11:17 pm

miniman82 wrote: grimace007 wrote: im trying to figure out how to mount a crankfire on a t3... :shock:

im sure ill find space for the firing wheel somewhere

Did you see that T4 flywheel over at STF, where the guy put inserts in the back of the wheel? Maybe you could hook something like that up for a T1?

no i didnt, do you maybe have a link or the name of the thread so i can go search?

i think i remember seeing a trigger wheel where someone faced the backside of theyre pulley for the trigger... would that be possible? ill have to go look at the t3 pulley setup and see what i can work in.

Thu Jul 03, 2008 11:47 pm

I can't find it now, but you may be right about it being the pulley that was machined and not the flywheel. I honestly can't remember at this point, but it was pretty slick!

Fri Jul 04, 2008 3:06 am

yeah i think i remember seeing the backhalf of a pulley machined with little round dot looking things for the pickup. .. im sure ill figger something out. when theres a will theres a way.

damn i need to go to bed. lol.

Fri Jul 04, 2008 11:46 am

miniman82 wrote:

dog_jr911 wrote: how do i get a TPS on my TB? do i have to get a TB with a TPS on it already?

Getting a TB with one already on it is the easy way to do it, but you can put a TPS on near anything. No one said you have to have a TPS; you can always run it with MAPDOT accel entrichment, until you figure something out. I tried it for a couple days, and though it worked 'OK', TPS was still more accurate and seemed to work out better. It seemed to miss sometimes if I stabbed the throttle when the engine was at idle, but during gear changes and regular driving, I couldn't tell there was a difference in how it operated.

hmmm i didnt know that! thats great to know, ill just do that untill i get a new TB.

BTW, im going with CB's header. hell its 287.16 SHIPPED to my house, in two days. when i get it ill decide where ill drain it to. i have to bottom of my case tapped already for a sensor, ill probably run the drain there IF its downhill. the sensor is close to where the T3 dipstick goes. or T4... i dont remember which one. but you know what i mean!

Fri Jul 04, 2008 5:14 pm

That was a type 4 crank pulley with the metal "dots" on the back side. I think this is what you are talking about. Just go a little more than 1/2 way down the page.
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=108336&highlight=edis+trigger

Fri Jul 04, 2008 5:43 pm

thats the one i was thinking of, thanks!

Fri Jul 04, 2008 6:19 pm

That's it!

The same thing could also be done on the flywheel, except that you'd have to machine non-magnetic spots. I've always wondered if it would be possible to use the standard FI case with it's crank sensor, and just machine the correct EDIS spots into the flywheel? I'm sure it can be done, be I doubt there's enough need for such a thing.

Fri Jul 04, 2008 6:43 pm

well once i get a few hours in the garage ill let yall know my preliminary ideas

Fri Jul 04, 2008 6:45 pm

mini, are you running any type of idle adjusting valves?

only things on my setup so far are

O2 sensor
crank sensor
IAT sensor
and a coolant sensor. which im not sure is going to be head temp or oil temp......
TPS sensor.

thats all ive got, beside the BOV.

Sat Jul 05, 2008 2:36 am

No, not really. I normally just drive it right away, so I didn't really see a need for it. I've got it adjusted to a sweet spot- it doesn't die, but it doesn't exactly idle smooth till it warms up either. I suppose some day I'll get around to adding the ICV, but for right now I'm happy just nursing it till it's warm enough to blow the doors off Mustangs. :twisted:

Sun Jul 06, 2008 4:41 pm

sweet, it seems like that valve or type of valve is mentioned every two minutes when your reading the manual :roll:

so i had to ask, you know!

BTW, i scored two NEW garret flapper valves with acutators and brackets. GENUINE garret. the three bolt flange type, the comes straigh off the turbo, no angles.

haha all for less than $80.

Mon Jul 14, 2008 10:04 pm

so ive gotten one of the flapper and actuator sets in today, still havent gotten the third one in.

well the problem is that the bracket doesnt quite line up with the holes. about a centimeter off. no biggie, i can just drill it.

the only problem is that the flapper housing is too big. like its meant for a larger garret turbo. i read that it was for a garret T3, 5 bolt style, and asumed that it would work out alright .

shoot, hopefully the other one isnt the same.....

also, i took off the intake cover (snail?) and polished it up. i noticed there was quite a bit of oil allover. there was what seemed to be a old deterioated paper gasket on the outermost ridge. ill make my own for that.

also, the actuator- its too short to reach the flapper housing. i can loosen the nut to adjust the lenght, right? that doesnt change my wastegate setting does it?

besides that, i just powdercoated my cylinder cover engine tin. looks kinda like Glen's. im going to do the rest, i like it. plus it wont scratch :wink:

also, ive gone crazy with the polishing. doing the alternator... and basicly everything but the block :cry:
cooling...

Mon Jul 14, 2008 11:54 pm

dog_jr911 wrote: well the problem is that the bracket doesnt quite line up with the holes. about a centimeter off. no biggie, i can just drill it.

Hell, I had just one bolt holding my actuator on, up until about a week ago... :shock: Just drill it larger, should work fine.

dog_jr911 wrote: the only problem is that the flapper housing is too big. like its meant for a larger garret turbo. i read that it was for a garret T3, 5 bolt style, and asumed that it would work out alright .

Does the wastegate flapper line up with the hole in the housing?

dog_jr911 wrote: also, i took off the intake cover (snail?) and i noticed there was quite a bit of oil all over. there was what seemed to be a old deterioated paper gasket on the outermost ridge. ill make my own for that.

The oil is likely because of a PCV valve being routed to the intake side; you got this turbo from the junkyard, right? If so, just clean it up. I doubt it's leaking oil or anything, mine didn't.

dog_jr911 wrote: also, the actuator- its too short to reach the flapper housing. i can loosen the nut to adjust the lenght, right? that doesnt change my wastegate setting does it?

It's not supposed to just fit right on there, it's got some spring tension-that's what keeps the wastegate closed until you hit it's preset pressure. You should bolt the actuator to the compressor housing, then pull the end of the rod out and over the flapper arm. It should be sort of hard to do, like I said, 10 lbs of spring pressure. You can always post a picture of the actuator rod before you try and stick the flapper arm through it, I'll be able to tell if it's not adjusted right.

Tue Jul 15, 2008 1:57 pm

miniman82 wrote: Quote: dog_jr911 wrote: well the problem is that the bracket doesnt quite line up with the holes. about a centimeter off. no biggie, i can just drill it.

Hell, I had just one bolt holding my actuator on, up until about a week ago... :shock: Just drill it larger, should work fine.

ouch... what happened? alright, ill drill it.
Quote: dog_jr911 wrote: the only problem is that the flapper housing is too big. like its meant for a larger garret turbo. i read that it was for a garret T3, 5 bolt style, and asumed that it would work out alright .

Does the wastegate flapper line up with the hole in the housing?

yes, the bottom two holes line up, as does the flapper hole. BUT the other three are farther out. IE bigger exhaust housing?

Quote: dog_jr911 wrote: also, i took off the intake cover (snail?) and i noticed there was quite a bit of oil all over. there was what seemed to be a old deterioated paper gasket on the outermost ridge. ill make my own for that.

The oil is likely because of a PCV valve being routed to the intake side; you got this turbo from the junkyard, right? If so, just clean it up. I doubt it's leaking oil or anything, mine didn't.

alrighty. shaft also wiggles side to side a little, no too bad. no in-out play.

Quote: dog_jr911 wrote: also, the actuator- its too short to reach the flapper housing. i can loosen the nut to adjust the lenght, right? that doesnt change my wastegate setting does it?

It's not supposed to just fit right on there, it's got some spring tension-that's what keeps the wastegate closed until you hit it's preset pressure. You should bolt the actuator to the compressor housing, then pull the end of the rod out and over the flapper arm. It should be sort of hard to do, like I said, 10 lbs of spring pressure. You can always post a picture of the actuator rod before you try and stick the flapper arm through it, I'll be able to tell if it's not adjusted right.

shoot.... :oops: i took the arm off so that i could drill out the hole larger, it wouldnt allow me to put the clip on. hmm.... i dont think i moved the nut at all, so i should be fine.

BTW thats like an inch of distance to stretch!

Tue Jul 15, 2008 2:16 pm

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-Truck-Parts-Ac....m20.l1116

housing looks like this.

unless you think the housing with the downtipe will fit with CB's header. we will have to see after i order it.

Tue Jul 15, 2008 3:04 pm

dog_jr911 wrote: BTW thats like an inch of distance to stretch!

it's springloaded as Mini said...just pull it over... this is where you will adjust for the boost you want....make the rod shorter for more boost... i'd start out by loosening it up and lengthening a bit...

Tue Jul 15, 2008 5:18 pm

I never get more boost no matter how tight I make that thing, I think it's more to do with the spring pressure inside the actuator. That's what you need to overcome with manifold pressure in order to get the gate to open. I only adjust the rod when the gate either won't stay closed to build boost, or it's not long enough for the gate pin to go into it.

Tue Jul 15, 2008 5:35 pm

when i first installed my turbo system it built a whopping two PSI... this was with the rod adjusted to nearly a straight push onto the lever... shortening the rod to preload the actuator(against it's own spring inside) can get me 20+(never went higher) PSI out of it....

Tue Jul 15, 2008 5:41 pm

Well yeah, sure, if the thing is loose to begin with you're gonna make more boost when you cinch it down. I was talking about the thing already being tight (maybe 1/2 actuator travel), and screwing it down as far as it will go- still didn't see a change. I doubt there would be a change unless it was so far in the the actuator bottomed out, and kept the gate closed. :shock:

Tue Jul 15, 2008 5:45 pm

you may have a very weak spring... i'm not sure what exactly is in this actuator, it's just as it came from AJ Simms.... i figure based on adjustments before, this thing could give me 30 PSI or so.. but that'd kill the engine... but it'd run damn good till it did... :lol: