TheSamba.com :: View topic - October 53

Sat Jun 21, 2008 6:51 pm

EverettB wrote: The crank tin is 36hp. Used on Buses, 1955-1959.

Hey Everett thanks for that info. Anybody have any real ideas as to how/why it ended up on the Oval? Along with a crank start nut?

Should this thin slot generator have had the cover over the slots?

Joey

Sat Jun 21, 2008 10:17 pm

scvw wrote: EverettB wrote: The crank tin is 36hp. Used on Buses, 1955-1959.

Hey Everett thanks for that info. Anybody have any real ideas as to how/why it ended up on the Oval? Along with a crank start nut?

Should this thin slot generator have had the cover over the slots?

Joey
Kind of strange but maybe someone stuck a rebuilt Bug long block into a Bus and swapped over all the Bus stuff.

Thin slots have no cover.

Wed Jun 25, 2008 8:22 pm

Matthew Tolbert wrote: Joey,
how were you going about trying to install the window? yes WWest seals are good to use. the way i have always done it is

1 install the chrome strip into the rubber
2 install the seal around the window
3 install a piece of string or small insulated wire (have used speaker wire before) into the seal all the way around in the area that the metal lip in the body will eventually go into
4 sit the window in the opening and have someone push inward while you start pulling the string on one side making the lip of the seal pop over the metal lip of the body keeping constant pressure on the window so it does not pop back out
5 if doing a windshield be very carefull as they break alot easier :D (dont ask me how i know this 4 times :evil: )

Joey, when you install the stationary glass, make sure to use some smooth rope that is alittle smaller than the groove in the seal, in the past what we used at the dealership is what some people call clothes line rope. Also I know ALL of you guys are going to laugh, BUT I had a Doctor that is a bug guy, told me to use KY gel, same as they use for doing ultra sounds in the hospital.
On the seals, it helps the install without ripping the seals. It wipes off clean with water and won't stain the interior/headliner. It works good on installing all of the seals on the body or pan.

NOW what you guys decide to do with whats left over.....I don't want to know about. :shock:

You know how hard it was not to say rubbers in those lines too with KY gel! :wink:

Sat Jun 28, 2008 10:49 pm

Not only does it have the bus hand crank nut and tin, but is that a star coil I see?

Sun Jun 29, 2008 10:27 am

yes it is...

Sun Jul 06, 2008 4:54 pm

In the last week I got my Coker tires in and am getting some rims painted. Today I rebuilt a semaphore switch that a friend gave me(thanks Matthew) and got my semaphores working. Ok, the drivers side is still a little sluggish. Hopefully I can get that worked out. I also got the wipers working(need new wipers now). Tail lights and brake lights work but the passenger side is still too low voltage. I am getting 5.7 volts to the dome light but it isn't lighting up. :? I now am going to replace the PO's sealed beam head lights with my new correct Euro lights. Getting the few wire hacks worked out has been frustrating but rewarding at the same time. Any and all advice is appreciated.

Sun Jul 06, 2008 4:58 pm

Joey, I sent you a PM before you posted this.

Glad to see you are making progress!!! I was traveling, sorry for the delay on the switch. I'm sure the one you got from Matt was nice!

Keep up the good work man, it's coming along. 8)

Mon Jul 07, 2008 7:32 am

Looking good Joey, I see its coming along.

Sun Jul 13, 2008 3:33 pm

Well I got a few things done this weekend but I am so aggravated right now I could kick my dog. Not really but you get the point. It is the proverbial "One step forward and two steps back". I got my heart lights on and working great. My daughter had been pressing the brake pedal so I could make sure they worked fine. She wanted to see them work so we swapped places. Now they didn't work. WTF! :evil: Checked the fuses. Fine. Jacked the car up and took off the drivers tire to check the brake switch. Fine. Cleaned the connections and they started working again. Good. :D On to the next project. Removed the old sealed beam head light buckets and removed the plug connnectors. Fixed the passenger side wire tube and cleaned up the grounds. Checked the voltage and it was only in the 4.0 volt range. :? Checked the battery and I must have drained it with all the work that I had been doing yesterday. Ok, I will deal with that tomorrow. Today I roll started it and drove it around awhile. Didn't charge a damn bit. :evil: :evil: I had already sent off the regulator and had it serviced. The battery now shows a charge of 3.5+- volts with the car running and when I rev up the motor it gets into the 4.2+- range. I pushed in the generator contacts with a small screwdriver to make sure they were making contact but it didn't seem to help. I know this is going to be a stupid guestion but I am aggravated and not thinking too clearly right now. Does it sound like the generator needs servicing? Anybody have any checks that I can do? Once I think I am close to getting it on the road something else pops up. :2gunfire:

Thanks, Joey

Sun Jul 13, 2008 5:25 pm

Joey,

Just remember it is testing your LOVE, it has probably been given up on before by someone who didn't love it as much as you will/do.

Once you prove your love and it knows it's home you will have many good times and miles, hang in there, don't give up. :lol:

If you find out it's the regulator your more than welcome to borrow the one I have again!

Mon Jul 14, 2008 6:35 am

"polarizing" the generator might help too.

Mon Jul 14, 2008 6:55 am

MODIFIER wrote: "polarizing" the generator might help too.

No it won't. That only puts some residual magnetism in the field shoes so it charges at the right polarization. If it is charging at all, it does not need to be olarized.

Joey, start by checking the output of the gen without the regulator. Take it off (you don't have to, but it is easier), and ground the thinner wire coming out of it. It is NOT the wire that goes to the lug that is on the same bus bar as the hot wire going the chassis. Look at the bottom of the reg, you will see what I mean.

Set up a meter to read the voltage (DC) out of the fat wire out of the gen. Don't run the gen for more than 30-60 seconds like this, I'll defer the explanation why for later.

I did this test on gen in this thread:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1...p;start=40

You should get WAY more than 6 volts. I usually get 17-24 or so. (Its the reg's job to cut that down to 7.2 or so).

Try that and let us know what you find. No sense in troubleshooting any other charging issues until you know what your gen is putting out.

Who rebuilt the reg???

About the brake light switch, replace it. Get the $4 spade terminal one. They get flakey, then new brake fluids eat them up. They last 2-4 years at best. I just keep a box of the $4 ones aound for my cars (Yes I HAVE the screw term kind, but they fail that often, I'll jet keep them on the office shelf....).

The other thing to do when troubleshooting the brakelight circuit is just jumper out the BL switch with a clip lead, then go around and check connections, wiggle stuff, etc.

Or ask you daughter how exactly she was pushing on the pedal...;-)

Mon Jul 14, 2008 7:12 am

Thanks for the offer Meredith. I will let you know.

I had polarized it once a while back Steve.

Hey John,

I was hoping that you would chime in. I checked your website out last night but didn't see anything about checking the generator. I liked the volt/amp/water analogy.

I will take the generator off in the next couple days and give that a try. It's funny that it was working great until Saturday. Oh well, it serves me right for getting too confident on the work that I have done to it so far.

That's funny about my daughter. I will show her what you said, she will get a kick out of it. :lol:

Mon Jul 14, 2008 7:25 am

scvw wrote: Thanks for the offer Meredith. I will let you know.

I had polarized it once a while back Steve.

Hey John,

I was hoping that you would chime in. I checked your website out last night but didn't see anything about checking the generator. I liked the volt/amp/water analogy.

I will take the generator off in the next couple days and give that a try. It's funny that it was working great until Saturday. Oh well, it serves me right for getting too confident on the work that I have done to it so far.

That's funny about my daughter. I will show her what you said, she will get a kick out of it. :lol:

Take the reg off, not the gen! You'll need to run the engine to spin the gen....

:wink:

Mon Jul 14, 2008 9:20 am

johnshenry wrote: Take the reg off, not the gen! You'll need to run the engine to spin the gen....

:wink:

Sorry. :oops:

Mon Jul 14, 2008 10:02 am

johnshenry wrote: MODIFIER wrote: "polarizing" the generator might help too.

No it won't. That only puts some residual magnetism in the field shoes so it charges at the right polarization. If it is charging at all, it does not need to be olarized.

Joey, start by checking the output of the gen without the regulator. Take it off (you don't have to, but it is easier), and ground the thinner wire coming out of it. It is NOT the wire that goes to the lug that is on the same bus bar as the hot wire going the chassis. Look at the bottom of the reg, you will see what I mean.

Set up a meter to read the voltage (DC) out of the fat wire out of the gen. Don't run the gen for more than 30-60 seconds like this, I'll defer the explanation why for later.

I did this test on gen in this thread:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1...p;start=40

You should get WAY more than 6 volts. I usually get 17-24 or so. (Its the reg's job to cut that down to 7.2 or so).

Try that and let us know what you find. No sense in troubleshooting any other charging issues until you know what your gen is putting out.

Who rebuilt the reg???

About the brake light switch, replace it. Get the $4 spade terminal one. They get flakey, then new brake fluids eat them up. They last 2-4 years at best. I just keep a box of the $4 ones aound for my cars (Yes I HAVE the screw term kind, but they fail that often, I'll jet keep them on the office shelf....).

The other thing to do when troubleshooting the brakelight circuit is just jumper out the BL switch with a clip lead, then go around and check connections, wiggle stuff, etc.

Or ask you daughter how exactly she was pushing on the pedal...;-)
Then why did mine gain 1.5 volts after repolarizing the generator ?
I checked it at the battery wire connection on the regulator with the engine running.

Mon Jul 14, 2008 11:09 am

disregard that last question.
I figured it out.

Mon Jul 14, 2008 1:00 pm

MODIFIER wrote: johnshenry wrote: MODIFIER wrote: "polarizing" the generator might help too.

No it won't. That only puts some residual magnetism in the field shoes so it charges at the right polarization. If it is charging at all, it does not need to be olarized.

Joey, start by checking the output of the gen without the regulator. Take it off (you don't have to, but it is easier), and ground the thinner wire coming out of it. It is NOT the wire that goes to the lug that is on the same bus bar as the hot wire going the chassis. Look at the bottom of the reg, you will see what I mean.

Set up a meter to read the voltage (DC) out of the fat wire out of the gen. Don't run the gen for more than 30-60 seconds like this, I'll defer the explanation why for later.

I did this test on gen in this thread:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1...p;start=40

You should get WAY more than 6 volts. I usually get 17-24 or so. (Its the reg's job to cut that down to 7.2 or so).

Try that and let us know what you find. No sense in troubleshooting any other charging issues until you know what your gen is putting out.

Who rebuilt the reg???

About the brake light switch, replace it. Get the $4 spade terminal one. They get flakey, then new brake fluids eat them up. They last 2-4 years at best. I just keep a box of the $4 ones aound for my cars (Yes I HAVE the screw term kind, but they fail that often, I'll jet keep them on the office shelf....).

The other thing to do when troubleshooting the brakelight circuit is just jumper out the BL switch with a clip lead, then go around and check connections, wiggle stuff, etc.

Or ask you daughter how exactly she was pushing on the pedal...;-)
Then why did mine gain 1.5 volts after repolarizing the generator ?
I checked it at the battery wire connection on the regulator with the engine running.

Must have been something different that changed it. Polarizing only puts a tiny bit of magnetism in the field cores so the gen "starts up" generating on the right polarity. Once the gen is spinning and generating ANY voltage, that magnetism is irrelevant as the field windings are energized and the gen is producing its own magnetic field in its windings.

A gen that truly needs polarizing will in the absence of a regulator, produce a negative voltage. With a regulator, the field windings won't be energized at all (that is what a reg does, and only if the polarity is right) and the output will be a big fat zero.

Perhaps fiddling with your gen, you improved the brush contact or something. Repolarizing didn't do it....

Tue Aug 05, 2008 5:24 pm

I finally am getting very close to having the Oval on the road. A couple recent things that I have done are to put a rear bumper on(I know it is a overrider bumper without the overriders but I haven't found a Euro yet and the overrider bars would have looked like ass with the hearts) but the newest addition is a set of painted rims with new Coker Firestone tires. My friend Steve(Modifier) reconditioned a set of rims, painted them AND mounted/balanced the tires. Thanks a bunch man. :D

Tue Aug 05, 2008 6:41 pm

Damn nice Joey.
Glad to see that its coming together.

I like it the way it is but.......it would be sweet laid out and on some type of aftermarket wheels. =D>

I like stockers too. :D