| swervyjoe |
Sat Jan 19, 2008 9:04 pm |
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i checked the msc "big book" at work the other day. it listed up to m20. didn't called to check though. the link i posted before doesn't work for me anymore either. the list up to m20 aswell. i'm not sure what the deal is with that.
Joey, i assumed that reamer was for use with a mill machine or drill press. will it work as a hand reamer? |
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| hazetguy |
Sat Jan 19, 2008 9:07 pm |
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campingbox wrote: krakatoa@cruzio.com wrote: It may be somewhere in the thread alread but what is the amount of torque on the bolt for the swing arm??? t
47 to 54 ft. lbs.
65-75 Nm 8)
(the torque spec is pretty clearly specified in the workshop manual) |
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| SCZ9-1-1 |
Sat Jan 19, 2008 11:11 pm |
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| Okay somebody help me out, is 47-54 Ft lbs equal to 65-75 nm? What is "nm" After relying on about 5 different books etc. for tech info I've finally invested in a Bentley Manual and have usually relied on that extra little "umph" as a measurement for torque. (I just bought my first torque wrench a few weeks ago). |
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| campingbox |
Sat Jan 19, 2008 11:12 pm |
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krakatoa@cruzio.com wrote: Okay somebody help me out, is 47-54 Ft lbs equal to 65-75 nm? What is "nm"
Yes. NM = Newton Meters. |
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| scvw |
Sun Jan 20, 2008 5:30 am |
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swervyjoe wrote: Joey, i assumed that reamer was for use with a mill machine or drill press. will it work as a hand reamer?
Yes that is mainly for a milling machine and propably would not work good as a hand reamer like the one Jon has. The one that Jon shows has a much longer lead in taper for easier alignment when reaming by hand.
Joey |
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| hazetguy |
Tue Feb 05, 2008 10:36 pm |
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I just did a center pin on a 1967 beam and added some pics, pointing out the differences in the later beam. new pics and text can be found at the bottom of the original post.
i also added some thread pitch measurements to the original text. |
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| SCZ9-1-1 |
Sun Apr 06, 2008 3:17 pm |
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| Hazetguy, I thank you for putting this post together! I printed it out awhile ago and had finally gather all the necessary (major) tools and replaced my center link pin yesterday. It went so smoothly with your pictures and advice. I did have to use an old socket to make a drift to push out the old bushings and put in the new. I didn't have to move the shift linkage or steering either, although it would have been easier if I did. |
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| mysamba |
Sun Apr 06, 2008 8:25 pm |
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| NIce How To... |
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| Rick |
Sun Apr 06, 2008 9:30 pm |
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| well done Jon! Too bad you're not just down the road anymore and I could borrow those tools! Guess I'll have to go buy my own...darn. :roll: |
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| dropgates65 |
Mon Apr 07, 2008 1:36 am |
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| are all the center pins the same size....do they all take the same size reamer?......went on harbor freight.com and they have adjustable cheap set for like 50$......its not like im going to do this all the time sooooo........maybe get buy with cheap one?...... |
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| 66 Shorty |
Mon Apr 07, 2008 8:21 am |
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MSC does have the 24mm reamer for like $40.00 or so...
Here's a link...
I think I have a few here at work... I don't know if it needs to be done on my Bus, but, with this Tutorial, I feel as though I should do it! YOu made it look SOOO Easy! I will be rebuilding pretty much the entire front end, so, I guess it would be a great idea to do this as well!
Thanks Man, you made it easy to follow for even Me! LOL! |
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| swervyjoe |
Mon Apr 07, 2008 10:31 am |
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dropgates65 wrote: are all the center pins the same size....do they all take the same size reamer?......went on harbor freight.com and they have adjustable cheap set for like 50$......its not like im going to do this all the time sooooo........maybe get buy with cheap one?......
i bought those, but they aren't self-centering. i believe they require a pilot that, as far as i can tell, harbor freight doesn't sell.
66 Shorty wrote: MSC does have the 24mm reamer for like $40.00 or so...
Here's a link...
I think I have a few here at work... I don't know if it needs to be done on my Bus, but, with this Tutorial, I feel as though I should do it! YOu made it look SOOO Easy! I will be rebuilding pretty much the entire front end, so, I guess it would be a great idea to do this as well!
Thanks Man, you made it easy to follow for even Me! LOL!
thats a chucking reamer, not a hand reamer. |
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| Michael11 |
Tue May 27, 2008 3:16 pm |
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ok, I removed the arm, but the pin is COMPLETELY seized.. Won't budge. I couldn't even turn the bottom with a pipe wrench.
Anyone else ever have a stubborn one? Looks like I may have to take the beam out and drive it down?
BTW- I have a Wolfsburg beam if that makes a differance..
Anyone have a suggestion? |
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| M113 |
Wed Jul 16, 2008 1:21 pm |
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| Anyone have a source for the reamer? Also, Hazetguy, you showed your prototype drift tool, any info on that? Are you making them or have specs to make one myself? |
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| crofty |
Wed Jul 16, 2008 2:20 pm |
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M113 wrote: Anyone have a source for the reamer? Also, Hazetguy, you showed your prototype drift tool, any info on that? Are you making them or have specs to make one myself?
http://www.vintagebus.com/howto/pivot.html |
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| campingbox |
Wed Jul 16, 2008 7:26 pm |
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Michael11 wrote: ok, I removed the arm, but the pin is COMPLETELY seized.. Won't budge. I couldn't even turn the bottom with a pipe wrench.
Anyone else ever have a stubborn one? Looks like I may have to take the beam out and drive it down?
BTW- I have a Wolfsburg beam if that makes a differance..
Anyone have a suggestion?
I was helping a friend yesterday to get his '62 doublecab ready for the Seattle Vintage Meet and the pin was completely seized. The upper swing lever was moving back and forth but the pin was not. I didn't have the factory tool for pressing it out with me, and I ended up using a 10 lb. slide hammer to pull the pin down a 16th of an inch. That was the hardest partbut once I had a ledge to work with I pushed it out using an air chisel. It came out with both bushings seized to the pin. Luckily he had a lift so the bus was 6' up in the air. |
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| npbusguy |
Thu Jul 17, 2008 5:37 am |
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Michael11 wrote: ok, I removed the arm, but the pin is COMPLETELY seized.. Won't budge. I couldn't even turn the bottom with a pipe wrench.
Anyone else ever have a stubborn one? Looks like I may have to take the beam out and drive it down?
BTW- I have a Wolfsburg beam if that makes a differance..
Anyone have a suggestion?
I happen to have the factory tool to take care of this situation. If you are near Chicago, come on over and you can borrow it.
If not, maybe someone local has the same tool that you can borrow.
I can post a picture if anyone wants to see what it looks like. |
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| Runboy |
Wed Jul 23, 2008 6:46 am |
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Anyone used the Center Pin Kit that CB Performance is selling? Curious why it is priced so much lower than many others.
Mike |
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| Major Woody |
Tue Oct 14, 2008 1:25 pm |
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How much movement is unacceptable?
My center pin has enough play to permit about 1 mm play in the arm with the draglink and tierods removed. Is this ok? |
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| ///Mink |
Sat Oct 18, 2008 11:10 am |
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So I'm right in the middle of this job on my March '57 SC and I noticed a couple of oddities.
First off, my Bus didn't have any kind of upper cap - Just a spring washer and 3 flat shims on top of that. Is this correct for earlier Buses? It did not appear to have been apart before, but what do I know?
Second, my upper bushing was flush with the top of the beam, not 1.4mm above. This seems to make sense if there is no "cap" on earlier beams.
Anyone?? |
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