| [email protected] |
Mon Oct 28, 2002 3:15 pm |
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| I went ahead and ordered the Weber DFEV kit for my 82 Vanagon. Anybody had experience installing this unit on T4, preferably a Vanagon? If so, I'm looking to learn from your mistakes. Any tips on install would be helpful. BTW, I just pulled my 1st type 1 motor, from a 67 Westy. Wow, that was easy, I was extremely impressed with how quickly it came out. Beautiful design. Wish I had it that easy with mine. Thanks, Dave |
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| keifernet |
Tue Nov 05, 2002 7:31 pm |
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I can think of a few tips...
Beware the cheapo intake runners that come with the kit... you can use the stock ones with some modifications... if you use the kit ones be sure to file them flat as they are always warped from the child labor who welds them up in R.O.C....( run a file across them you'll see what I mean...)
And get some type 1 8mm head stud washers and 15mm outer size head nuts...
They hold more evenly and distribute pressure across the intake flange better....
Take the top off the carb before you install it and make a note of the jet sizes and the air tube sizes, ... then you will know what you have before you run it and can order some if you need to change any.
Hopefully you are getting one pre jetted correctly for the 2.0L and not something else..... Check the choke... usually set too tight...
Redrilling the tube for the accel cable on the rear tin to acheive a better angle for less wear on linkage and better (easiser) pedal pressure less risk of sticking throttle....
good luck. post some more if you have problems or even if it goes well.... |
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| [email protected] |
Wed Nov 06, 2002 9:10 pm |
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| Thanks, I just got it running today. I didn't see your post before tonight, but I,m going to check those runners tommorow when I take it back of and seal stuff, etc. I was told by seller [certain co in PA] that it would fit under decklid of Vanagon with no mods. HA! I got it to work though with a little customization. I also switched to 009 because I had an extra and wanted to experiment. They work well together. As for being cold natured, so far no probs. It was lower 40s tonight and started right up. To make a long story short, the Weber Progressive/ 009 combo does seem to work on air-cooled Vanagon, but be prepared to make some modifications. I should take pictures, I couldn't find crap on this conversion on the net. Later, Dave P.S. If my engine craps out in less then 30Kmis, I'll just blame the installer and PO for not putting the thermostat on. That way it can't be my fault. |
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| keifernet |
Thu Nov 07, 2002 7:56 am |
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| Probably the biggest concern may be poor fuel milage... and the slow warm up..... |
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| NeverHadaBeetle |
Thu Nov 07, 2002 8:13 am |
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| From your last post it sounds like you live in a colder climate so you may want to start thinking about building a heat riser system of some sort to keep the Weber from icing up in cold misty weather. I have driven many miles with the Weber conversion and it generally runs well, but will get carb ice when temps are in the 30s and it's misty or rainy outside. You will know this when it starts to spit, sputter, and lose power. As far as the thermostat is concerned I would make every effort to install one. New thermostats are getting pricy, but they are easy to install and cost much less than a cracked cylinder head which WILL be caused from slow or no warmup. If you drive your Vanagon in temps under 40 degrees with no thermostat it's only a matter of time if you don't have the thermostat and flaps working properly. Good luck. |
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| [email protected] |
Thu Nov 07, 2002 4:27 pm |
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| Man, I hope the mileage dosen't suffer. I used to get 14mpg. I'm hoping for 17. The thermostat is a high priority, luckily the van hasen't been driven in the winter for a couple of years because thats when I work so I hope there wasn't much damage. Going to work on riser system, been thinking while I sleep, it'll come to me. Tuned the 009 a little more today, running better. Now I've got an exhaust leak, sounds like a canary is stuck under the tin. Always something. I love VWs. What else is spare time for? |
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| keifernet |
Thu Nov 07, 2002 5:25 pm |
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The canary under the tin is not a good thing.... I have found it is usually a leaking head or the begining of one...
take the valve covers off and retourque the 4 head nuts you can get to... slide the rockershafts out of the way if you can and use a thin walled 15mm socket, or take them off if necessary.....
Could be a square port style exhaust gasket though....
The homeade heat riser is somtimes tough to pull off depending on your idea/ skill level... I once saw a slick unit that used the oil pressure sending unit.... the guy tapped into the stock hole of the case and used copper tubing and a 4 way tee, the dude was a speciality high tech industrial cehmical plant guage type maintenance guy and his set up was very clean....
he said the warm oil did the trick....
I saw another with one of those small defroster heater things mounted in the compartment and operated from a switch up front.... he said he always checked for fuel leaks ect. before he ever turned it on.... a bit scary but blew hot air into the air filter and on the carb base....
just a couple of ideas... good luck
anyone else have a good way that doesn't look like hell and isn't going to take serious/damaging mods???? |
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| [email protected] |
Sun Dec 01, 2002 9:24 pm |
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I have wondered if it would help to remove the hoses that go to the blower fan and somhow direct them towards the carb.
Rich |
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