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Tue Jan 29, 2008 12:13 pm

The next step in turning my Transporter into a camping machine is insulating, so I won't freeze to death in my bread box.

I've read "Heat, Rust, & Noise in VW's" article perhaps unwisely advising fiberglass insulation behind a vapor barrier; Another article recommended Owens Corning "Foamular 150", a styrofoam insulation. I read the recent thread talking about spray-on bed liners, although that was more about protection and look than insulation.

I like the idea of a paint on coating like Second Skin's products. I'm not sure how effective they'd be as insulation, though. I wrote them to get numbers to compare but only got back a sales pitch focused on sound deadening.

I'd love to hear thoughts or recommendations on how to insulate the cabin area to hold heat better! What worked for you?

Tue Jan 29, 2008 12:48 pm

I got a few cans of "Great Stuff" and sprayed it into the cavities behind the interior panels. So far so good. Reduced noise and keeps heat in.

Tue Jan 29, 2008 12:55 pm

If you do a search you'll find a bunch of folks have used the silver backed bubble wrap type insulation. I've seen some photos on here of the entire inside of buses covered in this stuff, and heard that it not only helps with heat, but also noise. Westies came with fiberglass in certain areas. I'm getting ready to switch mine out with this stuff.

Tue Jan 29, 2008 1:25 pm

I was under the impression that Great Stuff would absorb water and lead to rust, based on comments I found here. However, the Great Stuff site contradicts that:

Quote: Latex foams are typically "open cell" and, as a result, can take on water. In fact, the same properties that allow you to wash latex foam off your hands with water also mean that the cured foam can absorb water. This can cause wood rot or deterioration in areas where wet latex foam is next to wood, such as a window frame. In contrast, GREAT STUFF™ is a closed-cell foam. It forms a water-resistant outer coating when cured.

Tue Jan 29, 2008 1:26 pm

You need to be able to keep the drain holes open at the bottom of the body panels.

Avoid products that absorb moisture and keep it trapped at the body panels as it will most certainly rust back there.

I usually spend a nice spring day by shooting up some rust coverter paint with an extension tip from a WD 40 can up those body panel drain holes and then blow it up even further with an air gun fitting for my air compressor.

Lot of bad advice in the "Heat & Noise" rap IMO.

Tue Jan 29, 2008 1:36 pm

We used the foil backed sound deadener. It worked great. Really helped with noise and heat. Easy to install. Used spray adhesive.

Tue Jan 29, 2008 1:46 pm

Does anybody have a source on what the foil-backed bubble wrap actually is? Everyone just calls it "the foil-backed bubble wrap insulation"

Tue Jan 29, 2008 1:47 pm

We got ours from Mid America I think it is called sound deadener foil backed insulation. Have fun take pictures.

(Mid America Motor Works)

Tue Jan 29, 2008 1:50 pm

phip wrote: Does anybody have a source on what the foil-backed bubble wrap actually is? Everyone just calls it "the foil-backed bubble wrap insulation"

Home depot sells it.

Tue Jan 29, 2008 1:56 pm

david_594 wrote: phip wrote: Does anybody have a source on what the foil-backed bubble wrap actually is? Everyone just calls it "the foil-backed bubble wrap insulation"

Home depot sells it.

What he said. I'd imagine a layer or two with some spray on adhesive should work beautifully. Only cost you like $30 too.

Though i dunno what to do about the floor. The transporters just have a big rubber mat down there, no carpeting or flooring like the Westies. Putting insulation under the mat would just make it squishy and feel funny.

Tue Jan 29, 2008 2:52 pm

phip wrote: Does anybody have a source on what the foil-backed bubble wrap actually is? Everyone just calls it "the foil-backed bubble wrap insulation"

It's called Reflectix.

Lowe's carries it:http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=13358-56291-13358

I've only done my slider so far, but it seems like it will work for insulation. It certainly helps reduce the tinny sound from closing the door--much more solid sounding now.

Wed Jan 30, 2008 5:11 am

The floor can be insulated with a peel and stick roofing product, it is foil backed ,comes in a roll and has a sound deadner/insulating quality.It was designed for. mobile home roofing so it will reflect heat well.The stuff is made by MF, any roofing supply will carry it.I used it on my floor and have had good results, put the plywood and flooring right over it

Wed Jan 30, 2008 8:40 am

For sticking it... grab some headliner adhesive and hit both the car and the insulation.

The stuff doesn't work worth a darn on headliners, but loves reflectix! I like permetex brand, it doesn't give as funny of dreams as the 3m stuff. :lol:

Wed Jan 30, 2008 8:59 am

I used this with good results. Just glued it on with 3M spray adhesive. I used Mylar tape for seams but duct tape would have been just as good.

http://tinyurl.com/37urqe

Wed Jan 30, 2008 9:17 pm

I used a combination of peel and stick and reflectix. Made a huge difference both in terms of heat and noise. Put peel and stick everywhere
you can on the sides, then reflectix with foil tape to seal up the joints
then interior panels. It's huge, the difference. What the peel and stick
does is dampen all the noise from the body metal.
I went all out on the peel and stick on the floor, felt mats and then carpet
and also the original rubber mat with carpet over in the inside. Took
me a long time but it was so worth it. You can talk and hear other people
talk and most importantly hear your stereo.

Kinsey :) :) :)

Wed Jan 30, 2008 9:40 pm

I used that foil bubble wrap in the fuel tank compartment when I had the engine out.
I used 3M trim adhesive to seal it in front & above the tank, as well as the front of the firewall. I made sure to put insulation above the sender unit in case the foil ever let go and shorted across the sender contacts.
I think it knocked down the noise in the cabin a fair bit.

Wed Jan 30, 2008 9:53 pm

problem with reducing the engine noise too much is that when something goes wrong, you might not hear it if there's too much insulation.

I plan on doing carpet, with insulation underneath and the rubber matt too to help with water resistance.

Here's a good question. I know a lot of you have westies so it's different for you. However say with a transporter, would you just put insulation behind all of the interior panels and just do that? For the non Westy drivers around there are a lot of possible leaks between the panels. But there is no way to fully insulate without it being visible.

Thu Jan 31, 2008 4:03 am

No matter what, a bus needs tbe insulated.If you can get a panel off, put insulation behind it, do a headliner, insulate the ceiling, this one makes a huge difference.It all adds up to a quet and comfy buggy,well worth the time and effort.

Thu Jan 31, 2008 6:06 am

Yesterday I checked out that Reflectex material at lowes, seem's thin, didn't notice the R value. This stuff might also be a good choice:

http://www.mamotorworks.com/acvw-1-24-7858.html

I was looking for a more cost effective choice over Dynamat

http://www.mamotorworks.com/acvw-1-24-6296.html
http://www.mamotorworks.com/acvw-1-24-7932.html

For the sliding cargo door, can anyone tell me if the upper area (which houses the mech. linkage for the door release), should that area be left alone, no insulation?

Thu Jan 31, 2008 7:38 am

I just finished putting the reflectix in my 74 transporter. I only did behind the panels and slider door. It is thin but some areas I did 3-4 layers. Only did 2 on the slider but I might add one more later. All the panels are on with out bulging or leaving the insulation visible. Still haven't driven it but just working in it you can tell it holds more heat. on a side note the only place I had to use any adhesive was on the slider (foil tape). The rest fit nice and snug if you cut them right. Just hate spraying adhesive all over the place. It must be the hours of removing the old stuff.

Also I went through a whole large roll which goes for around $60.00 give or take.