| MrBreeze |
Fri Dec 20, 2002 7:29 pm |
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OK, I'm getting there.....
Replaced the starter in my 77 Westy and that has solved my starting problem. Replaced the head temp sensor to try and fix my stalling problem, but no good.
Whenever it heats up, it will not go to idle when throttling down. Cold, it runs fine. Any other ideas?
Thanks!
-=Rob |
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| Amskeptic |
Sun Dec 22, 2002 10:20 pm |
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"Will not go to idle when throttling down"
I can't quite picture exactly what the problem is, will not return to idle? Will not idle at all? If it is too fast of an idle when warm, check the auxilliary idle regulator. It bypasses the throttle body when cold, and has an electrically-warmed bimetal that closes the bypass when warm.
If stuck open, 1,500-2,000 rpm "idle" is your result. If 12 volts is present, check then for continuity through regulator. If continuous, disassemble and clean the carbon junk out.
If it is no idle when warm, I will await your clarification.
Colin |
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| MrBreeze |
Mon Dec 23, 2002 5:32 am |
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Sorry, should have been more clear....
It stalls when warm. If I baby the gas pedal, I can keep it running, but very roughly.
-=Rob |
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| Amskeptic |
Mon Dec 23, 2002 5:51 pm |
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Ensure that you have no air leaks, this includes checking the dipstick, oil filler cap, all crankcase ventilation hoses, valve covers, pushrod tubes, as well as the more usual intake manifold gaskets, EGR valve, intake runners, plenum and boot to the air box. Then check your brake booster vacuum connection for integrity. Start engine get it running for a bit, shut it off, wait thirty seconds step on brakes. You should still have a couple of applications of boost. If the pedal is hard, you are losing air. Check the one-way valve next to the left heater valve up under the car near the clutch lever area. After you have determined that the engine is properly airtight, measure for less than 2,500 ohms at #6 and #27 on the air box at 68 degrees or above, like pull it out of the car and bring it into the house.
Before you button it up, check for continuity between #36 and #39 just when you move the flapper. Check for 100-300 ohms at #6 and #9 and 80-100 ohms at #7 and #8. These are your potentiometer terminals, sometimes the tracks get wiped-out and fill the signal at one stupid place on the flapper's travel. Usually I don't even bother with fuel pressure checks or fuel pump checks with a bad idle symptom.
I personally think you are going to find a split boot or a leaky connection to the booster. : )
Colin |
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| Amskeptic |
Mon Dec 23, 2002 5:56 pm |
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"kill" the signal, not "fill" the signal, how do you "fill" a signal for crying out loud? Oh yeah, test the one way valve, how do you test? Get it off the car, annoying but be gentle, blow *towards* the booster, it should pass air, blow the other way, it should be tight. This thing prevents backfires from blowing up the booster cannister, a nice touch.
Colin |
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| MrBreeze |
Mon Dec 23, 2002 7:34 pm |
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| OK, looks like I have some work to do this weekend. Thanks! |
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| Amskeptic |
Wed Dec 25, 2002 8:15 pm |
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Rob,
Please update the following.
The one way valve test:
Blow towards the booster, NO AIR.
Blow towards the engine, YES AIR.
If the hose will not part with the one way valve, it is simpler to just yank the hose off the metal tube sticking through the sheetmetal attached to the front of the engine, pull it down off that clip on the frame rail and see if you can pull the hose off the tube that disappears on its long voyage to the booster.
Colin |
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