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Thu Jan 23, 2003 10:46 am

As most of you know, I recently purchased a 72 bus. My blinkers do not work for some reason. THe brake lights do work. When I go to click on the right blinker, both lights on the dash blink like I have my hazards on. When I click on my left blinker, I get nothing. What could this be? I know its probably wiring, but I am new to VW's and I dont know or like electrical stuff that well. Help me out. Where do I start to look for the problem? Thanks
matt

Thu Jan 23, 2003 11:34 am

both dash lights blinking is normal, they all do that. Why? i do not know. the left blinker not flashing could just be a fuse. also look at the light bulbs, they should be the kind with two fillaments.
good luck
lc

Thu Jan 23, 2003 4:53 pm

According to the Bentley book, on a 72 Bus fuse #11 controls the turn signals. Fuse #1 controls the left tail light and fuse #2 controls the right tail light and the parking lights.

So as was said look at the light bulb itself and make sure that it is the proper kind (matches the other bulb in the other turn signal) and that both elements work. That could be your problem. If your parking lights all work then the bulb is getting juice. If those don't pan out then you could look online for an electrical diagram of your Bus. You can go to www.type2.com and click on the "Articles" button on the left and go to the electrical section and you will find diagrams there.

Fri Jan 24, 2003 12:00 am

I took it all apart today and got it working. It was all hit or miss though. Sometimes they would work, other times not. I would mess around with the lights and they would sometimes work and sometimes not. I used a test light on the sockets, it always lit up. It just seemed that I could not get the lights to fit properly. And yes, I do know that the double filament lights have to go in the correct way or you can not turn it at all to get it to lock in place. WHY wont my lights lock and get a good connection? Thank you very much.
matt

Fri Jan 24, 2003 5:42 am

Loose connections are a pain, but they are part of life for any 30 year old vehicle. I occasionally spray the entire fuse block assembly with WD-40 which helps. On a 72 model I would also replace all the fuses. After years of carrying current the fuse looks OK, but the metal strip turns brittle and simply does not carry electrical current very well. I've seen several old fuses that looked perfect, but they were old and brittle and didn't work very well. Remove them, replace with new ones, and throw the old ones away.

Fri Jan 24, 2003 8:58 am

How do I tell what amp each fuse is. Most of the fuses look very odd. I am new to VW so dont laugh at me. I used to build chevy. I have never seen fuses that look like this. They are the long ones, about an inch, BUT, instead of being glass with metal on the inside, they are plastic with metal on the outside. How do I tell if they are bad? Thank you.
matt

Fri Jan 24, 2003 10:15 am

The fuses are European type ceramic with a strip of metal (aluminum I assume) that covers both ends and varies in width at the middle of the fuse thus providing different amp levels of capacity. As far as I know most VW fuses were either 8 amp or 16 amp. I think the white ones are 8 amp and the reds are 16, but somebody please correct me if I'm wrong. Most auto parts stores will have these in different amp ratings. I have new ones in red, blue, and white. I don't recall what the amp ratings of the new ones are, but you can judge by the width of the metal strip which is higher amp and which is lower amp. I replaced my fuses with the lower rated fuses to be on the safe side and don't recall ever burning one out unless I was tinkering with the wires and accidently grounded a wire out. I have tinkered with a lot of busses and have seen people replace fuses with pennies and even foil gum wrappers when they burn out. I'm sure they were in a pinch and didn't have a fuse, but it works. When the fuses burn out they simply burn in half in the middle. However, as the fuse gets old the metal becomes brittle and doesn't conduct current very well and even though it looks OK it still doesn't work very well. When you remove these old fuses the metal strip will usually just crumble between your fingers. This is why I suggest replacing all the fuses and also suggest brushing clean the metal clips in the fuse block with sand paper. This has worked to solve a lot of intermittent problems for me when everything else seemed to be OK.

Fri Jan 24, 2003 1:28 pm

my 72 bus had the same problem and i had to change the emergency flasher switch.all of the lights seem run thru it....the switch i got was generic for different busses..more plug ins than i had wires.....worked great.....

Fri Jan 24, 2003 1:40 pm

Ok, all of the lights are working now with the exeption of the brake lights. I went and bought all new bulbs. I inspected the fuses but none of them seem to be bad and I will replace them once I find out what each one is rated at. Now for the ongoing problem. All of the lights work, except for the brake lights. The right one works, and is very dim, but the left one does not. THis is with the lights on. There is a ton of mumble jumble wiring in the engine bay that goes no-where. THere is a plug, coming from the left tailight, 3 wires i believe, that looks like it should plug into the harness somewhere. There also is a jerry rigged wire, running from what appears to be the left brake light to the right. It is spliced into the wire. Why wont my brake lights work. Thanks.
matt

Fri Jan 24, 2003 11:52 pm

Get the Bentley book.

All fuses are 8 amp except #9 &11, which are 16 amp.