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Sat Mar 01, 2008 1:13 am

Does anyone know what happens when the hall sender starts to go?

Sat Mar 01, 2008 2:10 pm

About the only ones I've ever seen give trouble are on 16V engines - where the distributor is sideways and often develops oil leaks after high milage. Then it gets oily inside and you have problems - missing, no start, often worse when the engine is hot. I've blasted them out with electrical cleaner (tetrachloroethylene) and have them run OK again - until the oil comes back that is.

What symptoms are you having?

Sat Mar 01, 2008 2:26 pm

Well the car would run for a few weeks just fine then it would just quit. The electrical is still on "acessory". But the engine stops and it won't start. I had it break down once on the highway, I had it towed home and I said to the tow truck driver, "watch this, it'll start" Sure enough it did. But on the highway it had no spark. Also when it has no spark, I don't hear the fuel pump priming the system. I thought it might have been the Ignition Control Module, but after changing that, it still didn't start. I do have another DISTRIBUTOR, but I haven't put it in. I also have another hall sender. Anyways, let me know what you think.

Sat Mar 01, 2008 2:35 pm

What's the model and engine of the car?

Yeah, the fuel pump relay is activated by an ignition signal - so if you aren't getting spark then it won't run. Depending on the model, you can sometimes "fake" a hall sending unit signal by pulling the plug that goes to the sender, then jumpering the two outer terminals with the ignition key on, that should kick the ignition module into a spark (might take a couple of tries) and you'll hear the fuel pump relay kick on.

Changing out the distributor or the hall sender? Yeah might be a next step - depends on which distributor or engine you are talking about here.

Make sure all of the electrical connections in and around the engine are good, especially any grounds.
-Andy

Sat Mar 01, 2008 3:25 pm

It's a 1981 VW Rabbit Cabriolet, I'd put a picture up, but I haven't firgured out how. Sorry.

Sun Mar 02, 2008 12:56 pm

Oh, an early model with electronic ignition. This one doesn't have one of those inline digital idle speed stabilizers does it?

Sun Mar 02, 2008 5:39 pm

I don't know if I have an inline digital idle speed stabilizers. If I did, where would it be?

Sun Mar 02, 2008 6:32 pm

It was on certain models in the early 80s. I don't know if a 'vert would have it though. It's an extra box that plugs in, in the wiring for the Hall sending unit. It has two round shaped plugs. It can be bypassed by unplugging them both and inserting one into the other.

Thu Mar 20, 2008 6:31 pm

With the engine cold it would start right up and run fine. After a few minutes it would just quit. A similar situation developed on a previous Eurovan of mine. Driving along and she would just quit. I turned the key on and off and she fired right up again. It did this for about a month getting progressively worse.

The hall sender on the more recent one had some iron filings in it

Fri Mar 21, 2008 4:43 am

The car is sold now, I mentioned all these to the lady also. She'll figure it out. I just never got cause I didn't want to put any time into it. I have 2 beetles that I like working on instead. Thanks for the help though guys.

Mon Mar 24, 2008 2:11 pm

i think i may be having hall sender issues as well.. but i want to be sure before spending the little money i have.. right now the car isn't running, it cranks fine, you can smell fuel from the exhaust after a bit, but i think the spark is grounding out before going to the plugs. not getting a spark at the plugs, but it'll jump from the bumper through my pants and int my leg... :oops:

is there something else i'm missing? because i really need to get my cabbie running (1987 cabriolet) soon.

Mon Mar 24, 2008 7:24 pm

check the points in the dist. change it maybe