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christine72 Sun Jul 05, 2015 12:03 pm

Hoping it holds. 2nd try.
Had the ever present broken gear. Re positioned it and put only Sugru on the end. Only let it set up overnight and drove. Worked for half a day then failed.

This time used a Lock-Tight 2 part glue, and Sugru on the end, and wrapped safety wire around it a couple times. Giving the Sugru 3 days to cure.

The wire shown to right of numbered.


Sugru on the end.(white blob)

christine72 Sun Jul 05, 2015 1:06 pm

Washed it with Castillo soap and warm water using thick Terry cloth and soft brush removed dirt.. This is what that lrft me with:

[



After taking the Magic Eraser to it (and rinsing it);




[

christine72 Sun Jul 05, 2015 1:21 pm

69doublecab wrote:


How did you manage without a pointer or a degree scale?
Al[/quote]

Did a triple cross check. Found the mathematical formula to place a mark at specified degrees on the pulley on http://vw-resource.com, and compared my calculations with a graph image in these forum pages. Also confirmed my TDC by rotor pointing to #1. And had to call a friend, because found official Vw specs showing this engine times to 10 degrees and 5 degrees... We went with 7.

Took most of the day too sort that out and a couple minutes to set the timing.:)

Used the Dremel to add 7 and 32 degree marks on the pulley.

Alan Brase Sun Jul 05, 2015 2:54 pm

christine72 wrote: 69doublecab wrote:


How did you manage without a pointer or a degree scale?
Al

Did a triple cross check. Found the mathematical formula to place a mark at specified degrees on the pulley on http://vw-resource.com, and compared my calculations with a graph image in these forum pages. Also confirmed my TDC by rotor pointing to #1. And had to call a friend, because found official Vw specs showing this engine times to 10 degrees and 5 degrees... We went with 7.

Took most of the day too sort that out and a couple minutes to set the timing.:)

Used the Dremel to add 7 and 32 degree marks on the pulley.[/quote]
WHAT I MEAN IS:
Checking rotor position will give you a measurement with about 30 degrees plus or minus TDC. One can:
1. Put a stop bolt in #1 or #3 spark plug hole and go forward and backward and split the difference to get TDC. (This is MOST accurate.)
2.Do about the same thing with a dial while building the motor.
OR,
3. Just get the factory timing scale or the Bus Depot repop.

This would seem like by far the simplest and most accurate solution.
This picture of a 72-74 that uses a 2 stage vacuum advance; initial is set 5 degrees AFTER TDC with hoses connected, running, of course.
Al

christine72 Mon Jul 06, 2015 8:11 am

69doublecab wrote:

WHAT I MEAN IS:
Checking rotor position will give you a measurement with about 30 degrees plus or minus TDC. One can:
1. Put a stop bolt in #1 or #3 spark plug hole and go forward and backward and split the difference to get TDC. (This is MOST accurate.)
2.Do about the same thing with a dial while building the motor.
OR,
3. Just get the factory timing scale or the Bus Depot repop.

This would seem like by far the simplest and most accurate solution.
This picture of a 72-74 that uses a 2 stage vacuum advance; initial is set 5 degrees AFTER TDC with hoses connected, running, of course.
Al

I'll pick up the replacement scale for good measure (pun).

Trouble is, just had the engine replace. Not quite sure what year it is as went from 1700 to 2000cc.

Also using 009 distributor.

Anyhoo, appreciate the tip. Thanks!

christine72 Mon Jul 06, 2015 8:16 am

christine72 wrote: Hoping it holds. 2nd try.
Had the ever present broken gear. Re positioned it and put only Sugru on the end. Only let it set up overnight and drove. Worked for half a day then failed.

This time used a Lock-Tight 2 part glue, and Sugru on the end, and wrapped safety wire around it a couple times. Giving the Sugru 3 days to cure.

The wire shown to right of numbered.



Didn't work. Clearly the broken gear is a symptom and haven't addressed the cause. Which confuses me somewhat in that it worked for about 14 miles with the first attempt at a fix.

Should there be any play at all, the tiniest bit, in the 10th of a mile numbered gear? I have none whatsoever.

No problems with the speedometer.

Goshen Mon Jul 06, 2015 8:53 am

This 4th of July weekend I installed Polyso 3/4" thick insulation panels and wood panels to my 69 Bay window bus tin top

For the complete DIY click here:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7739410#7739410

Before:



After:


Alan Brase Mon Jul 06, 2015 2:24 pm

christine72 wrote: christine72 wrote: Hoping it holds. 2nd try.
Had the ever present broken gear. Re positioned it and put only Sugru on the end. Only let it set up overnight and drove. Worked for half a day then failed.

This time used a Lock-Tight 2 part glue, and Sugru on the end, and wrapped safety wire around it a couple times. Giving the Sugru 3 days to cure.

The wire shown to right of numbered.



Didn't work. Clearly the broken gear is a symptom and haven't addressed the cause. Which confuses me somewhat in that it worked for about 14 miles with the first attempt at a fix.

Should there be any play at all, the tiniest bit, in the 10th of a mile numbered gear? I have none whatsoever.

No problems with the speedometer.
I realize this is a bay. I do not think this is a symptom of anything except bad plastic or perhaps just PLASTIC GEARS.
MOST of them seem to break on Vanagons. I think one can buy the gears somewhere.
I'd like to find out where, also.
Al

melville Mon Jul 06, 2015 5:34 pm

Pulled the motor and trans from El Kombi and put El Kombi on CL.

I'll have a Samba ad tomorrow.

melville Mon Jul 06, 2015 7:34 pm

melville wrote: Pulled the motor and trans from El Kombi and put El Kombi on CL.

I'll have a Samba ad tomorrow.

SOLD!!!

Local sale, and he's a Sambanista.

melville Sun Jul 12, 2015 3:45 pm

Washed the Westy today with the boys. It'll be for sale soon.

christine72 Sun Jul 12, 2015 7:05 pm

69doublecab wrote:


I realize this is a bay. I do not think this is a symptom of anything except bad plastic or perhaps just PLASTIC GEARS.
MOST of them seem to break on Vanagons. I think one can buy the gears somewhere.
I'd like to find out where, also.
Al

Found the gears for $25 each here
Odometer Gears http://www.odometergears.com/products/Volkswagen/Mechanical+Speedometer/19

Goshen Mon Jul 13, 2015 8:22 am

I went to Lowes and bought a roll of this tape 9' x 33' for $19.68 + Tax

I was told by a well known VW guy to use it and i did..

Here are the before and after pics..
I did use clean the surface area that had surface rust with OSPHO and later i used POR-15 so i didnt take photos during that step because i didnt want to get POR-15 on my Samsung Note 4
That stuff doesnt come off at all once applied.. it may take a month to get off your skin.


BEFORE:





AFTER:



*** Yes, that is a 6" Access panel if i should have to replace the Fuel Sending unit sometime without having to pull the motor out. ***


1967250s Mon Jul 13, 2015 8:22 pm

christine72 wrote: 69doublecab wrote:


I realize this is a bay. I do not think this is a symptom of anything except bad plastic or perhaps just PLASTIC GEARS.
MOST of them seem to break on Vanagons. I think one can buy the gears somewhere.
I'd like to find out where, also.
Al

Found the gears for $25 each here
Odometer Gears http://www.odometergears.com/products/Volkswagen/Mechanical+Speedometer/19
I had this same problem on my 944. Only solution was to get all the number rollers off the shaft and clean the shaft and number wheels with alcohol; reassemble with NO grease of any kind, maybe a very light touch of graphite. Any grease or oil left will cause the rollers to bind and same problem appears. Then slightly enlarge the inside hole of the gear so when it goes on, the gear is not spread open, and then glue it on with a touch( and I mean a tiny amount) of epoxy or other permanent glue(locktite). Still holding after 10 years. Boy, was that a hard speedo to open as the back is pinched to the glass with the face ring.

Alan Brase Mon Jul 13, 2015 8:33 pm

Goshen wrote:


AFTER:



*** Yes, that is a 6" Access panel if i should have to replace the Fuel Sending unit sometime without having to pull the motor out. ***


where did you get that access cover assembly?
Al

Goshen Tue Jul 14, 2015 12:14 pm

[quote="69doublecab"] Goshen wrote:

where did you get that access cover assembly?
Al

Ebay $22.00



http://www.ebay.com/itm/Beckson-DP60-W-C-Smooth-Sc...5b0eb8b75d

Marya Sun Jul 19, 2015 2:57 pm

christine72 wrote: Washed it with Castillo soap and warm water using thick Terry cloth and soft brush removed dirt.. This is what that lrft me with:

[



After taking the Magic Eraser to it (and rinsing it);




[

Very nice! That's the Rivi pop top yes? I used a wet wipe on a corner to test (was actually the mechanics' kind of wet wipe) and it worked like magic... but not sure about how to best clean the bug screen itself!

BerryBus Sun Jul 19, 2015 6:59 pm

Marya wrote: christine72 wrote: Washed it with Castillo soap and warm water using thick Terry cloth and soft brush removed dirt.. This is what that lrft me with:

[



After taking the Magic Eraser to it (and rinsing it);




[
Very nice! That's the Rivi pop top yes? I used a wet wipe on a corner to test (was actually the mechanics' kind of wet wipe) and it worked like magic... but not sure about how to best clean the bug screen itself!


I need to try the magic eraser when I get the bus back. We did not try that. I hope it looks as good as yours does.

ohnomrbill Mon Jul 20, 2015 3:46 pm

Mounted a replacement horseshoe vent for my ’73 Westy (the plug and paint job are just temporary so please ignore). It was 3D-printed by these guys based on measurements from the original damaged part ... never found one that fit exactly right from the RV supply places ... maybe I had an oddball or something. Anyway this worked out great.



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BerryBus Thu Jul 23, 2015 9:58 pm

Got bus back from paint. Now, putting back together. (Separate thread)


Also dyed my curtains. I posted in separate thread as well.




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