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Goshen Tue Aug 25, 2015 7:01 am

I have been having issues with my bay where i have been hearing this grinding noise and also had to pump the brakes just to get it to stop. Then when I least expected it wouldn’t even stop and the brakes locked up taking me to the left side each time I pressed on the brakes.
It was time to open up the drums and see what was happening underneath.

Before starting the job I needed to make sure that I had the proper jack and jack stands for safety.
Lift vehicle at points indicated in link:Jacking up bus
Jack stands not pictured. Place under Frame or Front Beam.





Look at what I found




No more cheap bearings this time and here I will use these FAG bearings



Wheel cylinders were shot and leaking on both sides



Lets replace the bearings and also the seal with good quality Elring seals


I cannot remember the order of the following photos but I did use a 1-1/8” socket to put in the outer bearing race and to remove it was simple as well since I used a flat punch and also used the old race to tap in the new one.. you have to turn it upside down and you will see how the edge meets perfectly so you can tap this new baby in…





This is what I used to tap the new one in and then after that took a flat punch to the remaining til It sat snugly in






There it is all snug outer wheel bearing race case



Now to tap in the inner bearing race case



There it is all in tapped in a cross pattern to insure that its even on all sides



Make sure to put ample grease in the middle section of the drum also to keep that are reservoired with grease.





I then gently tapped in the new Elring rubber seal


You need to pack the bearing like this:Repacking Bearings


Now lets set the brake drums aside so we can do replaces the shoes and wheel cylinders $18.00 Fronts to $24.00 rears which is my wholesale pricing but if you want some for you I can get them for you at the same price plus a flat fee of $5.00 on top for each one.

Removing the 11mm brake line fitting is tough so I suggest putting them on a vise and using a pipe wrench or else you will wear away at the fitting with your 11mm box wrench and then you will up the creek without a paddle. These brake lines measure 14”-15” in length and you will have to make the bends to form them like the ones that came out of there to begin with.
Or spray them with a rust penetrant, heat if needed. They will come right off.





I decided to replace the rubber brake hoses also and these you have to use a 17mm wrench and an 11mm (flare nut wrench) box wrench but if it begins to strip it then go to the pipe wrench because it really grips. Look at the following photos
Soaking with rust penentrant and the correct, Flare nut wrench will not damage the brake line flare nuts.





The brake hose from behind the brake drum is removed with a 14mm box wrench and this one you can lubricate prior to attempting to loosen with the box wrench but in order to remove it from here you have to remove from where it meets the hard brake line.





Now it is time to slap everything back on and have someone help with pumping the brake pedal to bleed the brakes and for this you will need a 10mm wrench.



Edited in blue and red.
Nice write up. Thank you for sharing.
Tcash

cdennisg Thu Aug 27, 2015 8:37 pm

Goshen wrote:
Removing the 11mm brake line fitting is tough so I suggest putting them on a vise and using a pipe wrench or else you will wear away at the fitting with your 11mm box wrench and then you will up the creek without a paddle. These brake lines measure 14”-15” in length and you will have to make the bends to form them like the ones that came out of there to begin with.
Or spray them with a rust penetrant, heat if needed. They will come right off.



I can't even imagine using a pipe wrench on those fittings unless I planned to replace the hard line entirely. MAYBE a well placed Vice grip, but never a pipe wrench.

Also, you really need to put a grommet in the hole where the hard line passes through the hole in the body. That metal-to-metal contact will wear a hole in the brake line and result in complete brake failure. Looks like that metal line needs to be bent properly to align in that hole better, too.

Goshen Fri Aug 28, 2015 10:28 am

cdennisg wrote:



I can't even imagine using a pipe wrench on those fittings unless I planned to replace the hard line entirely. MAYBE a well placed Vice grip, but never a pipe wrench.

Also, you really need to put a grommet in the hole where the hard line passes through the hole in the body. That metal-to-metal contact will wear a hole in the brake line and result in complete brake failure. Looks like that metal line needs to be bent properly to align in that hole better, too.

I used a flare wrench but it was not working.. it kept slipping.. i used the pipe wrench bc the vise grip wasnt working to well

as far as the grommet.. i will definitely do that.. thanks

kreemoweet Sun Aug 30, 2015 12:06 pm

Pipe wrenches are great - much better than vicegrips. In this particular case, I would've used a 6-inch pipe wrench
(with an extension over the handle if necessary) on the nut. Yes, they will leave marks on the nut, but it can still be used.
A really tight brake line nut will cause most flare-nut wrenches to bend (permanently!), slip, and ruin the nut anyway.

Silverboot Sun Aug 30, 2015 2:07 pm

Just picked up my 79 Riviera from the shop, needed a new needle bearing and shifter bushing, its like night and day driving her now. Speaking of night and day, sorted out all of the lights, so blinkers and flashers are now in working order.

Driving the wife bananas, keep finding excuses to run here or there to grab something so I can drive the bus.

HelmutofBuffalo Mon Aug 31, 2015 8:37 am

Just installed this $34.00 back up camera from HDE Electronics from auction site. I did not want to put it up on dash and did not want to drill holes in dash. I cut off the mounting sticky and JB welded the mounting bracket to a rare earth magnet recycled from some electronics and mounted it to my ashtray. Magnet makes for easy removal or adjustment. Only other drawback was I barely had enough cable to run it back to the camera mounted on license plate, but I did take a long route. I can see the pavement about 6 inches from Bus.



christine72 Sat Sep 12, 2015 11:05 pm

Installed sound deadening

I used inexpensive tip from Chris Vallone (Classic VW, NY). Used Quick Roof video http://youtu.be/u7eIF4cgFx4

Took out the Z-bed and seat belts and laid it in. Was pretty simple process.


Also removed the old vent and switch for the gas heater. Don't have the heater, and the vent just serves as a leak for fumes. Ultimately sealed it with a piece of thin flexible plastic "cutting board" and theQuick Roof over top.



The engine hatch is well insulated and deadened already so left it stock.


Sure hope it makes a difference. Haven't been able to hear music or conversation.

Will install in front of bus-cab floors, front wall, and doors.

BerryBus Mon Sep 14, 2015 7:40 am

Had to take a shortcut. Was getting water through windscreen and no budget/time to replace glass and weld in patch for permanent fix. To slow it down just a bit, I taped off the seal and applied 100% black silicone to seal all the way around. The glass is coming out in pieces anyway, so I figured, $3.95 and it wouldn't hurt anything






panic_fan Mon Sep 14, 2015 8:48 am

new exhaust from airhead parts....purring like a vdub should

ggaeta Mon Sep 14, 2015 2:11 pm

HelmutofBuffalo wrote: Just installed this $34.00 back up camera from HDE Electronics from auction site.


a back up camera is a great idea. It looks great except ...i think your camera is mounted upside down. the colored lines are supposed to be on the bottom side. I only say this because it might mess up the distance and the distance beeps.

TurtsMcSlow Fri Sep 18, 2015 8:30 pm

Read 383 pages of What Have You Done For Your Bay Recently.

cdennisg Fri Sep 18, 2015 9:14 pm

TurtsMcSlow wrote: Read 383 pages of What Have You Done For Your Bay Recently.

:D

canes5time Sat Sep 19, 2015 9:59 am

TurtsMcSlow wrote: Read 383 pages of What Have You Done For Your Bay Recently.

How many hours did that take?

TurtsMcSlow Sun Sep 20, 2015 9:50 am

canes5time wrote: TurtsMcSlow wrote: Read 383 pages of What Have You Done For Your Bay Recently.

How many hours did that take?

Let's just say it adds up to a whole lot of toilet time.

canes5time Sun Sep 20, 2015 11:58 am

TurtsMcSlow wrote: canes5time wrote: TurtsMcSlow wrote: Read 383 pages of What Have You Done For Your Bay Recently.

How many hours did that take?

Let's just say it adds up to a whole lot of toilet time.


:lol: :lol: :lol:

Magpiecandles Sun Sep 20, 2015 5:53 pm

Been working on our first rebuild. Finally got the splitting the crank case. Still a long way to go, but it has been a fun learning adventure so far. Next is finding a shop we can trust for a valve job.

Jmack223 Tue Sep 22, 2015 6:32 pm

christine72 wrote: Installed sound deadening

I used inexpensive tip from Chris Vallone (Classic VW, NY). Used Quick Roof video http://youtu.be/u7eIF4cgFx4

Took out the Z-bed and seat belts and laid it in. Was pretty simple process.


Also removed the old vent and switch for the gas heater. Don't have the heater, and the vent just serves as a leak for fumes. Ultimately sealed it with a piece of thin flexible plastic "cutting board" and theQuick Roof over top.


The engine hatch is well insulated and deadened already so left it stock.


Sure hope it makes a difference. Haven't been able to hear music or conversation.

Will install in front of bus-cab floors, front wall, and doors.


let us know how well it works! ^^

Goshen Wed Sep 23, 2015 1:01 pm

christine72 wrote: Installed sound deadening

I used inexpensive tip from Chris Vallone (Classic VW, NY). Used Quick Roof video http://youtu.be/u7eIF4cgFx4

Took out the Z-bed and seat belts and laid it in. Was pretty simple process.

The engine hatch is well insulated and deadened already so left it stock.


Sure hope it makes a difference. Haven't been able to hear music or conversation.

Will install in front of bus-cab floors, front wall, and doors.

Its what i used










and this is what i bought from Lowe's

stuartcamenson Thu Sep 24, 2015 5:13 pm

I removed a weird oil cooler setup that was running from the pump, to the front of the bus, through an air cooler under the front, back to the filter, then back into the pan. The long line couldn't be primed by the pump so I had no oil pressure after giving it nice new oil and a filter. I couldn't figure out why and was freaking out. But the nice people on here helped me through it and educated me that the oil cooler setup was garbage. Now my baby is back on the road =D

m.pendzick Fri Sep 25, 2015 6:41 am

Pulled engine and gas tank for rebuild






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