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  View original topic: Weber 32/36 main shaft leaking
jax07 Wed Mar 05, 2008 10:49 am

Hey all!

I have a weber 32/36 (DFAV?) that the butterfly shaft seals are sucking air. Does anyone know where I can get it fixed in southern cal, or buy a kit? Thanks!!

Soul Wed Mar 05, 2008 11:31 am

If you have a 32/36 DGV buy a kit from Pegasus:

www.pegasusautoracing.com/home.asp





Taken from the Pegasus site:

Many vehicles with Weber DGV carburetors are set up so that the throttle cable pulls directly on the throttle shaft bellcrank, introducing a side loading force instead of a pure rotating force. This side loading wears out the throttle shaft bore, eventually causing vacuum leaks, sticking throttles, and running problems. These precision double-sealed bearings are an inexpensive cure. The bearings replace the nylon throttle shaft retaining bushings at each end of the throttle shaft with no machining necessary. Simply remove the linkage and the throttle plate, slip out the thottle shaft, and install the bearings. Kit includes two bearings and two throttle plate screws. One kit repairs one shaft (the primary side tends to wear more than the secondary). SCCA legal.

jax07 Wed Mar 12, 2008 9:26 am

Thanks! I'm guessing that the DFAV is the electric choke version of the DGV. Or am I way off? I wanna make sure before I pay 40.00 for something that's wrong. Thanks!

[email protected] Wed Mar 12, 2008 11:39 am

A = Agua (water)

E = Electric

same carb, only the choke is different.

John
Aircooled.Net Inc.

gt1953 Wed Mar 12, 2008 6:49 pm

Jonh at Aricooled net hooked me up with a variety of jets for my 32/36 to get mine set up for 6000 feet. I think I have it set up and will post results in a couple of weeks.
Simple carb once you getter set up.

jax07 Thu Mar 13, 2008 11:09 am

Gents,

Thanks for the Input! I ordered the repair kit from Pegasus, so we'll see how it works! Thanks again!

[email protected] Thu Mar 13, 2008 11:43 am

getting good heat to the carb and intake are key IMO. And most progressives are jet so rich (as usual) its stupid, no WONDER it won't respond to jetting changes when you are out in left field! That's a good carb when you get it close.

John
Aircooled.Net Inc.

alcarl Thu Apr 24, 2014 9:07 am

Sorry to necro such an old thread but I'm interested to see if this fix worked.

The OP said he has a DFAV carb (as do I) and the Pegasus part is for DG series carbs. Mine is also leaking around the main throttle shaft and I did not see a way to install these bearings with "no machining required" as stated on Pegasus' site. Is that a difference between the DF and DG carbs?

cdxnolan Mon Dec 07, 2015 10:06 am

alcarl wrote: Sorry to necro such an old thread but I'm interested to see if this fix worked.

The OP said he has a DFAV carb (as do I) and the Pegasus part is for DG series carbs. Mine is also leaking around the main throttle shaft and I did not see a way to install these bearings with "no machining required" as stated on Pegasus' site. Is that a difference between the DF and DG carbs?

Seconding this question. I too have a DFAV, and would like to know if these DGV bushings will do the trick.

mikedjames Mon Dec 07, 2015 10:18 am

The DFAV has no bushings to replace. I bought some in hope from a UK supplier. A DFAV will need machining to make a space for bushes.

cdxnolan Mon Dec 07, 2015 10:25 am

So machine out the bore on the carb, add the bearing, and replace? Dang. Was hoping I would not have to send the carb off. Might it work if I put a little teflon washer between the square hole washer and the carb body?

alcarl Mon Dec 07, 2015 2:18 pm

LOL, I had forgotten about this thread.

Ended up finding a guy selling another one with the intake manifold for $80 so I went that route but I still have the old one sitting on a shelf.

mikedjames Fri Dec 11, 2015 1:58 pm

cdxnolan wrote: So machine out the bore on the carb, add the bearing, and replace? Dang. Was hoping I would not have to send the carb off. Might it work if I put a little teflon washer between the square hole washer and the carb body?

The problem is if you put any washers in there you end up putting side force on the throttle plate which then jams open. You would need to make a seal with no side force.

When I have stripped my progressive and rebuilt it, I found that I had to be very careful to position everything in the exact position on the spindle where it all works without jamming.
The screw holes in the throttle plate allow a small amount of adjustment or misassembly.

If the original customer (Ford in Europe?) for these carburettors was not so cheap, we might have ended up with roller bearings on the spindles and less wear, like the FI progressive throttle body from a 1970's VW or Porsche 924 which I bought on eBay.



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