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Sun May 25, 2003 1:12 am

I got a stock, tired, dual carbed 1700 in my 72 camper and looking to build a new motor soon. What would be the best to start with?? I'd like it to be fairly stock but increase cc's and power. I heard the 1800's have good heads. Is it easy to use a newer 2000 that has FI and still use carbs. Will probley end up getting a new carb set up anyway. Thinking that an upgrade to larger pistons might help get bigger. What kind of ideas do you have??
thanks
shawn

Sun May 25, 2003 10:38 am

i have a 2.0 liter with 1.8 heads in my 74 bus. dual carbs. what a sweet runner setup like this, at least i like it.

Sun May 25, 2003 11:59 am

Sounds good, where did you get the 2.0 from and what type of carbs are you running. Will any year 2.0 work??
thanks for your reply
shawn

Sun May 25, 2003 12:11 pm

Shawn-
Any year 1700- 1800- 2000 bus engine would fit. You can also use a 1980- 83 aircooled Vanagon engine, but use your Bus cooling tin- It'll bolt right on. I'd opt for a 1978 or later with hydraulic lifters. They run quieter and have more power. You'll have to use a low pressure electric fuel pump for a 1975 or later engine. As to carbs, I'd take my originals to a GOOD carb rebuilder and keep 'em stock, and run the original air cleaner, etc. Your manifolds will bolt right up. There's a popular Weber single carb 2bbl. conversion out there, but it's a really mickey- mouse setup and never seems to run right. If you do your own carbs, pay particular attention to the throttle shafts. If there's slop in them, a machine shop or carb shop should be able to rebush them for you.

Sun May 25, 2003 3:02 pm

shawn, i got my bus setup the way it is right now from the previous owner. its a 'new' bus to me...so will take me a little to find out any quarks in it. but so far only 1 found. it has dual delortos on it. nice setup actually.

Sun May 25, 2003 7:03 pm

Sounds like the 2000 is the right short block. What about heads?? Are the 1800's that much better?? Also any suggustions on a place to buy oversized pistons and sleves??
thanks eveyone for your time
shawn in Portland Oregon

Sun May 25, 2003 10:00 pm

Hey, Shawn, I'm just down the road in Cottage Grove, south of Eugene! I'd stick with 2000 stuff all the way. As to bigger pistons/ sleeves, the Type 4 engine case used in suitcase engined Busses don't do well with mods unless you do all the machine shop work required to beef it up. If you want more power with solid reliability, a later 2000 with hyd. lifters, STOCK, is the ticket. If you're going to replace heads, go NEW, not rebuilt, as rebuilt ones usually drop valve seats the day after the warranty is up. I think you'll be really pleased with the 2litre.

Mon May 26, 2003 8:40 am

why would you go to carbs over a fuel injected system? the FI gives you more power and better gas mileage, less problems with altitude and air temp.

Mon May 26, 2003 10:16 am

A 78 with FI gives terrible gas mileage but everything else about it is recommended.

Mon May 26, 2003 10:56 am

Ebert, a '72 Bus isn't set up for EFI. There's nowhere for the ECU, no fuel return to the tank, etc. A skilled, experienced tech could do it. If you CAN do it, I'd reccomend it, but this isn't for the novice or weekend mechanic. This is for a fully experienced pro. That's why I reccomended keeping the carbs. Ratwell, if your 78 gets terrible MPG, first, what's "terrible", (you should get 25, give or take a few MPG, lower at high altitudes, in bitter cold, or in the mountains.) You probably have a problem in the FI system, defective cyl. head temp sensor, oxygen sensor, low or high fuel pressure (regulator) or your air flow metre is out of calibration- (Is it a rebuilt?) Have someone hook an exhaust analyser up and get a CO value reading at operating temp. The other problem you may have is a "lazy" mileage counter in the speedometre.

Mon May 26, 2003 4:41 pm

Hey Richard, what kind of mileage are you getting in your '78? Im having a hell of a time getting 15mpg around town. I am still running rich though. From what Ive read around, the '78 with FI should be getting 17-20 mpg. Ive never heard of 25mpg but you also have a Westy right? Trama, maybe a Kombi will get 25mpg but are the heavier Westies capable of this? Sorry to jack your thread Shawn, but I figured this could help in your decision.

Jasan C.
'78 Westy

Mon May 26, 2003 5:03 pm

I meaned terrible to an ideal carb setup on a tuned motor. Here are the EPA estimates from the dealer brochure: 17 city, 25 hwy.

http://www.72camper.com/78brochure12.jpg

I put in a pertronix and now get 17mpg in the city. Before the upgrade I was getting 18mpg on the highway with points. My bus is set to run slightly richer than spec (which is 1.5% CO) and the compression is 135 in all cylinders but even leaning it out some more I wouldn't be able to beat the EPA values with the electronic ignition installed.

I know it's a box on wheels with a cd of .43 but the problem is that the L-Jetronic isn't really tunable (I still love it).

Mon May 26, 2003 5:09 pm

If you take the top off of the airflow metre and adjust the calibration with a CO analyser, you'll be amazed at how tuneable that Westy is. BUT- You didn't hear that from me, ESPECIALLY if you're in California! Mark where it was so you can put it back before smogging. Jason, 25 in a Riviera, about 22- 23 in a Westy.

Wed May 28, 2003 7:59 am

So if I run a 78 and up 2.0 will everything bolt up?? I just have to wire in a electric fuel pump?? The 1800 heads wouldn't be worth it?? Also what type of exhaust would I use?? Thanks for all the input everyone. More power is close at hand.
shawn

Wed May 28, 2003 10:28 am

My money's on a 25hp S/P, but that's just me.

Wed May 28, 2003 12:34 pm

Your on the right track. The 1.8 heads are the ticket if you want off the shelf power. the 1.8 heads have larger valves than the 2.0.
For my money I'd send the heads you have out and drop in 42/36 valves and blend the ports. Thats what i did. Have them opened up for 94mm cylinders and score yourself a 71mm crank-that will make a 2.0 litre.With that valve combo and a webcam 73, CIS fuel injection I can pull stumps outta' the ground.

I stayed away from a hydraulic cam because of the typical lifter ticking at start up-the main reason though is I want to see how my valves are doin on a regular basis, When you go to adjust valves a loosened seat or a stretched valve will make itself known for sure. Barry

Thu May 29, 2003 2:28 pm

I'm thinking maybe a 2.0 shortblock with 1800 heads?? If you go for bigger pistons and sleves how hard is all the machine work. Is there a site that deals with these types of motorS?? thanks
shawn

Thu May 29, 2003 7:34 pm

http://www.aircooledtechnology.com/Home_Page.htm

Thu May 29, 2003 8:35 pm

For heads I'd recommend going to Headflow Masters- ask for Adrian. For a set of reconditioned 2L crank and rods, a good place to look for them is DPR Machine. As far as cylinders are concerned, your best bet is to find a good used set of 94s and bore them out to 96mm and use a set of Keith Black 96s from European Motorworks. Don't set your compression ratio too low either :-) A great cam for a bus would be a webcam 86/a/b with 110 lc. As far as lifters are concerned, if you go hydraulic, make sure that you use genuine "Johnson" lifters. Another route would be solid ceramic type 4 lifters...kinda pricy, but they last forever (we make them oversized by a hair so that you can hone out the lifter bores and quiet up old/tired lifter bores). For those without a budget constrait, there are always options like our Nickies cylinders- power with near infinite life :-)

Charles Navarro
LN Engineering
http://www.LNengineering.com
Aircooled Precision Performance

Mon Jun 02, 2003 8:51 am

Thanks for all this info. I can't wait to start building. Our van will be perfect with jsu a little more power. Need to find a 2.0 in the northwest, anybody know of one sitting around??
thanks
shawn