TheSamba.com :: View topic - Heater Box/Exhaust conversion from 77 to 72-74 Question

Sat Aug 22, 2009 11:51 am

Here are some pictures of my conversion with modified EGR hookup.

So now I can run a CAT and EGR using the early 72-74 HE's and a 79-83 Federal Bus/Vanagon crossover pipe.

Thu Oct 01, 2009 8:30 am

Old post but a new question (I think I know the answer to, but will take the bashing just to confirm) :oops:

Currently have a 78 FI (non Cali version) Westy with a completey shot EGR filter. Will be making this conversion soon, so really don't want to spend $120 on a new EGR filter on the existing exhaust. Since the current EGR filter is worthless and letting air into the "system" at both ends;
(a) any harm in continuing running with the EGR filter removed other than the barely noticable/minor backfiring upon decleration and poorer than expected MPG?
(b) should I plug the cross over pipe in the engine compartment to prevent cool air from entering? Not only woried about cool air entering, but if plugged, would I be worse off?
(c) the connection point beneath the EGR filter tube is also rusted completely through. Should I do anything there since cold/fresh air is entering the exhaust system at that point?

As always, thanks guys for any advice you can give me.

Thu Oct 01, 2009 8:37 am

Seal the exhaust where the EGR filter tied in and seal the EGR valve as well. Do NOT stuff crap into the valve like silicon or sealant of choice, a simple metal cover with a cork gasket on the outside will do (you or next owner may need a functioning EGR valve in the future to pass smog and they are getting very hard to find). You should also seal the holes through the tin with aluminum tape or something more permanent.

Thu Oct 01, 2009 8:50 am

Ritter wrote: Seal the exhaust where the EGR filter tied in and seal the EGR valve as well. Do NOT stuff crap into the valve like silicon or sealant of choice, a simple metal cover with a cork gasket on the outside will do (you or next owner may need a functioning EGR valve in the future to pass smog and they are getting very hard to find). You should also seal the holes through the tin with aluminum tape or something more permanent.

My EGR filter is mounted beneath all the engine tin. The crossover pipe comes over the the drivers side wheel well, so it would be easy to plug that hole and the "now open end" of the cross over pipe with a solid piece of gasket material.

The PO had the pipe going from the exit side of the EGR filter connecting to a welded-on nipple on the exhaust pipe (odd place and like no others pictured in this thread) - but I can grind down what remains of that nipple and use muffler putty for a temp fix.

I'm not in an emmission testing state but would like a functioning EGR system on the replacement heat exchangers/exhaust system. Any other thoughts/concerns. Not mentioned in my original question, but an oddity is that my EGR dash indicator lights up when starting the bus, but goes out, along with the other idiot lights once started. Obviously I have a problem there too, since the original filter was a rusted out box with absolutely no connection to the exhaust system anymore. Odd?

Thu Oct 01, 2009 9:49 am

Why do you want EGR setup in the new system? Seems like a lot of unnecessary work to me. Like Ritter said, you need to seal the system in the meantime:
- seal off EGR connection with exhaust
- remove EGR valve and seal up hole in Engine tin, electrical tape the EGR wire
- seal connection of crossover pipe (not sure where the '78 connects to... either throttle body or plenum) German Supply sells a nice kit for this. Crossover is removed from the system this way.

If any of the system is left open you'll leave a vacuum leak (probably already have one if the system isn't sealed and the EGR filter is rusted out and has holes).

Thu Oct 01, 2009 10:53 pm

patayres wrote: Why do you want EGR setup in the new system? Seems like a lot of unnecessary work to me.
If any of the system is left open you'll leave a vacuum leak (probably already have one if the system isn't sealed and the EGR filter is rusted out and has holes).

That's really the question I want answered. If my engine will perform equally as well without any of the emission stuff on it (no cat, talking just the EGR accessories), then it would be easier/simplier to run without it, providing I insure there are no vacuum or exhaust leaks in the system.

Fri Oct 02, 2009 8:09 am

Lots of us have removed our EGR systems with absolutely no negative side effects (that's why Scott @ German Supply offers the block off kit). Keep your EGR pieces, though, just in case your state changes it emissions testing policy or you move to a state that requires it.
http://germansupply.com/home/customer/product.php?productid=17780&cat=&page=1

Fri Oct 02, 2009 9:54 pm

Yeah man run without EGR. Save the EGR parts for when you need them. You cant find a decent EGR valve anymore.

Fri Oct 02, 2009 11:09 pm

Thanks guys! Have to admit, had a little bit of sticker shock when looking at Scott's kit. (No offense Scott, it's our weak Yankee dollar. The block off kit runs about half of what the EGR through BD runs, but since I'm going to end up doing this conversion, probably money well spent.

Fri Nov 20, 2009 7:05 pm

OK have all but one piece. Any leads on finding the following. See third pic from bottom on the German Supply kit.
http://www.germansupply.com/home/customer/product.php?productid=16683&cat=409&page=1

2nd question = On the used heat exchangers there are minor gaps (very small) where the HX's outer cover meets the exhaust flanges and manifolds. Probably a stupid question as I assume the answer is yes, but should these be welded up?

Sat Nov 21, 2009 11:18 am

we have that part available:

http://www.germansupply.com/home/customer/product.php?productid=16937

Sun Jul 31, 2011 7:50 pm

i am in the process of making this switch in my 77 to the earlier style heater boxes that i already have. Does anyone know a good source for the new tin that i will be needing, that has it available, or a good price? :lol:

Sun Jul 31, 2011 9:10 pm

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/search.php?...ton=Search

Mon Aug 01, 2011 7:41 am

http://www.germansupply.com/home/customer/product.php?productid=16683&cat=409&page=1

Tin list. Can these be removed/replaced with the motor in fairly easily?

Mon Aug 01, 2011 8:23 am

All of the pieces can be switched with the engine installed.

Mon Aug 01, 2011 8:52 am

Sweet. I have a parts 74 westy parked next to my 77. guess i can pull all the 77 parts off and swap the 74's straight over. Hmm.

Mon Aug 01, 2011 12:21 pm

when doing the swap
id start with removal of all the 75-78 parts that wont be used
then install the alt bracket first