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Fri May 09, 2008 8:09 am

Ranchero Dude,

Good call on NOT painting the transaxle. Concentrating on the conversion alone will get this job done by your deadline....

- Chester

Fri May 09, 2008 10:11 am

GeorgeL wrote: Before you put the engine in, could you take top, left, right, back photos so we can get an overall idea of how the mounts go together?

Thanks, George
George... take a look through the pics on Ben's site that he referenced a couple of posts back... he's got some undercarriage shots that show pretty well how the mounts work. When I get to that stage I'll try to get some pics of the engine mounts with the engine on the stand so I can flip it over. That's one thing I've been trying to visualize are how the mounts are layed out. For what it's worth, I'm using the Small Car Performance mounts and adapter plate. I'm not sure how Ben's compare.

Fri May 09, 2008 9:24 pm

Day 9 Progress...
Day 9 started out great....my friend John stopped by at the crack of about 8:30am and helped position the engine and trans on the jack stands. Rolled the combo into place without a hitch. Bolted up the trans no problem. This felt like real progress...

By 9am we had centered the engine right to left to get ready to drill the four new holes for the engine crossmember (moustache). Drilled hole number 1, ok. #2, oops, the hole became a slot....the metal lip on the frame where the crossmember mounts is marginally wide enough to mount the crossmember in the original spot. When you slide it back the 2 5/8" or so that is required for the longer Subie engine (Smallcar mount), the lip doesn't really seem wide enough to hold the mount. I had read a bit about the need to weld up some angle iron up there to reinforce the area, but that idea seemed to fit into the category of round tuits for many, so I thought I would get away without having to do it. Anyway, like most things like that, after the initial disgust of having progress being derailed for a few more hours, I decided to do the job now. Used some 1.25" angle iron from John's scrap pile.
Here is the reinforcement I fabbed up. The cut in the angle iron is needed because there are two bolts going through the frame rail that attach the bumper mount.

test-fitting...

prepping the frame rail

My welding is crappy even on a good day, so please forgive the homely welds. They should hold though and have to be better than no reinforecement at all. I'll reweld them when I get the garage built and have access to something other than a 110v wire feed welder on a 40ft extension cord. (Have you ever seen an extension cord glow?)

The day ended close to where it started...engine and trans ready to fasten to the frame rail permanently. Spent about an hour and went through 2 cobalt drill bits trying to drill through the newly attached angle iron. Bought two more bits to finish the job in the morning. I'll start on routing the wiring from the Tom Shiels harness to locations on the engine and engine compartment. Also forgot to reattach the trans vent line before the trans went up, so I'll have to lower the nose of the trans to do that.

Sat May 10, 2008 10:30 am

ranchero wrote: Day 9 Progress...
Used some 1.25" angle iron from John's scrap pile...... Spent about an hour and went through 2 cobalt drill bits trying to drill through the newly attached angle iron. Bought two more bits to finish the job in the morning.

....just a hunch.... I had that trouble once with 1.25" angle scrap from a standard bedframe, (the most basic mattress support, with the wide plastic wheels). I was surprised how hard/strong general bedframe angle steel is. If you need strong steel, make a mental note - bedframes! .....and they are plentiful at Salvation Army.

But don't choose it if you need to drill a hole! And it might have too much carbon to weld well or may weaken at the welds. You can tell it's bedframe angle because there is no 'hard 90' at the corner, and it has a very slight 'lip' at the edge. Hard to explain but it's not the same as HR angle. Run a hacksaw over it, if it glides rather than cutting, you have piece of HARD steel.

If all you need is a doubler, then just regular old HotRolled steel angle is plenty strong. If you have finally burned holes in the correct location, well you might as well use it, at this point it's fine as a doubler if it fits!

I envy you, powering on in your EJ25 project!

Tom

Sat May 10, 2008 9:07 pm

GeorgeL wrote: Before you put the engine in, could you take top, left, right, back photos so we can get an overall idea of how the mounts go together?

Thanks, George

George, sorry I had the engine up the day you posted this. But here are some pics to get an idea of how the mounts work. Also, if you go to smallcar.com and look at the mount, they have the instructions for installing it. That includes a few pics too.

This one shows the SmallCar mount and shortened oil pan, as well as the Tom Shiels thermostat bypass.

Here is another view - to the left you can see how the Smallcar mount sits on the VW crossbar. This uses the four VW motor mounts too.

The mount and pan from the driver's side...

Smallcar mount sitting on VW crossbar - just like factory VW.

Hope those help!

Sat May 10, 2008 9:11 pm

Sodo wrote:
....just a hunch.... I had that trouble once with 1.25" angle scrap from a standard bedframe, (the most basic mattress support, with the wide plastic wheels). I was surprised how hard/strong general bedframe angle steel is. If you need strong steel, make a mental note - bedframes! .....and they are plentiful at Salvation Army.

But don't choose it if you need to drill a hole! And it might have too much carbon to weld well or may weaken at the welds. You can tell it's bedframe angle because there is no 'hard 90' at the corner, and it has a very slight 'lip' at the edge. Hard to explain but it's not the same as HR angle. Run a hacksaw over it, if it glides rather than cutting, you have piece of HARD steel.
Tom

Tom - it does look suspiciously like it is from a a bedframe! Should have gone down to the hardware store. Went through two additional brand new bits trying to drill through it. Finally go through

Sat May 10, 2008 9:33 pm

Day 10 Progress...
Well, the engine and trans are solidly in place. I started the day drilling the four holes that attach the crossbar to the framerail. After I had those bolts loosely in place, I dropped the nose of the trans down described below.

Doh!! - the trans vent hose bit me twice - once pulling the VW engine/trans out, and the second time putting the new engine and trans in. It is really difficult to access. There is a 13mm banjo fitting. I could only access it by dropping the trans off the mounts a few inches. The ratchet extension is attached to it here...

Reinstalled the shift linkage, including a new shift lever on the trans (with the ball) and on the end of the shift rod (the socket). The socket requires you to remove a roll pin. That was a royal pain in the arse. I tried pulling the pin out, pushing it in, drilling through it. No movement. Eventually cut a slit in the aluminum socket and was able to partially crack the lever off the steel shift rod. Then I was able to hammer the pin up into the shift socket. New one went on without a hitch.

Removed radiator and plastic coolant lines. One of the fittings into my AC condensor was stripped when I pulled it out. Was planning to eventually hook up the AC, so I thought this would be a setback for a few days until I could order a new one to mount back in with the new radiator. My wife reminded me that we live in Colorado. No need for AC here. So my drive across the Great Basin may be a little warm this summer. I'll deal with that later. Getting the AC functional was going to add a couple hundred dollars to my swap costs, so I'll be glad to put that off. That means that tomorrow I'll put the new radiator and stainless coolant lines up.

Ended the day working on the rear valence. The main part of the valence - the shelf that the coolant reservoir and expansion tank sit on fits just fine. But the lower part - the part that attaches to two of the motor mounts and the pin right in the center of the crossbar does not quite fit. Spent awhile bending to allow it to clear the belts, crossbar, dipstick. I guess I'll drill two holes through it to mount through the motor mounts and will have to cut a bit off the bottom. I haven't found any detailed pics of how others have done this....anyone?

Tomorrow...mother's day. May not get to work much, but plan to install the radiator and coolant lines, mock up Seth's coolant pipe, reinstall intake manifold, and start working on wiring.

Sun May 11, 2008 9:04 am

Ranchero Dude,

Don't forget to verify the coolant lines are flowing in the correct directions. I reversed my lines above the spare tire next to the radiator. Others will cross lines behind the engine firewall. I have a write-up about it on my EJ22 thread.

- Chester

Sun May 11, 2008 12:34 pm

ranchero wrote: George, sorry I had the engine up the day you posted this. But here are some pics to get an idea of how the mounts work...

Those are great. I'd seen the pictures on the Small Car site, but yours are much better for visualizing how the whole thing will go together. For my Bay conversion I'm thinking of using this mount and modifying a Vanagon mustache bar to fit the vehicle.

I'm not a fan of the "under the engine" crossbar mounts which put more concentrated stress on the chassis, both from static and dynamic (torque reaction) loads. The Small Car approach seems better thought out, and provides a nice place to mount the muffler as well.

Is your oil pan a Small Car part, or did you build it yourself?

Mon May 12, 2008 5:42 am

Day 11 Progress
Today was Mother's day - only had about an hour and a half.

First...a question. I found one female spade connector at the back passenger side of the Subaru intake (as installed in Van) that I can't find a match for. It is either pink/blue or red/blue Any ideas?

Today I removed the redundant fuel intake and return lines underneath the intake manifold and reversed the fuel pressure regulator for a more direct fit.
Here is the bottom of the intake...we'll remove two of the four hard lines. At the upper right you can see the FPR. We'll flip that around so it points to the firewall. Seth Hatfield suggested these mods to me. Chester did the fuel lines in his write-up and has more detailed pictures than these.

This shows the two lines from the top of the manifold.

Used an ancient Dremel tool to cut the hard lines from the brackets. Three cuts were required. WEAR GOGGLES! As I was cutting, I remembered that this Dremel was the first power tool that my dad let me use. Used it to make my Pinewood Derby car in Boy Scouts about 30 years ago!

Success!

Now on to the fuel pressure regulator...new o-ring

And installed back on the fuel rail. Now it points back to just about where the fuel return line comes out of the firewall.

Day 12 plan. REALLY have to work today. Don't expect to do much....But....you might be wondering when I'll be able to start it up. I'm hoping to do it by the end of day 14. We'll see.

Mon May 12, 2008 5:57 am

I believe the single spade connector is for the temp guage sender.

Mon May 12, 2008 6:05 am

Good job... you seem to be making good progress... even with taking pics and posting to the forum. I hope the gremlins don't start nesting in your engine compartment before you get done.

Mon May 12, 2008 11:00 pm

Day 12 progress?...
I was only able to work about two hours tonight. Installed wiring for gauges (oil pressure, water temp, VW idiot light and oil temp). Cut the white and green wire in pin 3 of the Subaru coolant temp sensor to connect to VW temp sensor per Tom Shiel's suggestion. Then installed the intake manifold. Still haven't figured out the mystery connector mentioned in Day 11 post.

Decided to install the Smallcar PS pressure hose, but could not get the old VW one off - rusty line and connector. Tried heat and Kroil. No-go. I'll keep trying over the next few days. Don't know what to do if I can't get the hose off. I suppose I'll cut the hard line off. I know Frank Condelli sells a flexible braided line set ($$) to replace the hard lines. The Samba has some threads on alternatives as well

For day 13 I plan to make all the wiring connections in the black box, mount the ECU and work on the cooling system. I'll work some more on removing the PS pressure hose as well.

Tue May 13, 2008 5:50 pm

Is your undefind wire for the Knock Sensor? The knock is right about were you wire is?? Ill look at the wire color on mine tonight.

Looks good!!

Tue May 13, 2008 8:08 pm

Day 13 Progress
Springtime in the Rockies today.

Sure wish I had a garage. It was too wet to work under the hatch, so I worked under the van installing the radiator, coolant lines, and then reinstalled the seat and ECU

Also worked to try to remove the PS lines. No luck again today and worse, I messed up one of the fittings. Decided to bite the bullet and ordered lines from Frank Condelli.

Installed a new radiator

Don't forget to remove the temperature sensor from the old radiator.

Also installed new stainless coolant lines. One of my plastic ones failed on the very last drive before I parked it to do the Subie install a couple weeks ago.

Then moved inside the van. Installed some RAAMMat while the seat was out. Then reinstalled the back seat and did a test fit of the Subie ECU. Here you can see the Subie ECU in the stock VW cage. That silver stuff is RAAMMat.

I thought I might be able to start on day 14, but I still have a way to go. To wit...
still need to make a few connections in the black box
connect the entire cooling system in the engine compartment
rout wires
Charcoal cannister
exhaust
intake ducting
PS lines

Tue May 13, 2008 8:26 pm

a914622 wrote: Is your undefind wire for the Knock Sensor? The knock is right about were you wire is?? Ill look at the wire color on mine tonight.

I think a914622 might be right about that mystery wire. I couldn't really see the color on mine because I didn't check it until dusk, but it looks like it may be pinkish with a blue stripe. That's just the terminal that should be inside a white, 2 pin connector which goes to the knock sensor through another pigtail.

Wed May 14, 2008 5:19 pm

Thanks guys - I'll check that out. I certainly can't find the knock sensor though. It should be on the block right? The manual is a bit unclear on the location. I found one empty threaded hole on the backside of the #4 intake runner - is that where it should be? I'll see if Seth has that.

Volksaholic wrote: a914622 wrote: Is your undefind wire for the Knock Sensor? The knock is right about were you wire is?? Ill look at the wire color on mine tonight.

I think a914622 might be right about that mystery wire. I couldn't really see the color on mine because I didn't check it until dusk, but it looks like it may be pinkish with a blue stripe. That's just the terminal that should be inside a white, 2 pin connector which goes to the knock sensor through another pigtail.

Wed May 14, 2008 5:25 pm

Day 14. Nada to report
Didn't work on the van today. Went to the one salvage yard in Salida to look for intake bits. They had one Subaru - a 93 Legacy that had the right stuff - but the fittings for the PCV and other breathers had been broken off then epoxied back on. So I decided to pass.

One of the few downfalls of living in my mountain paradise is the lack of places to scrounge for parts. So I drove about 200 miles RT down to Pueblo to the junkyards. I think it was worth it.
Found this.....

all for $39, the amount of cash I had in my wallet. That should give me a few options for cobbling an intake. Also found the cruise control servo, charcoal cannister and a tiny little Subaru subwoofer. The one in my Outback is ok. I'll give it a shot.

Wed May 14, 2008 5:29 pm

ranchero wrote: Thanks guys - I'll check that out. I certainly can't find the knock sensor though. It should be on the block right? The manual is a bit unclear on the location. I found one empty threaded hole on the backside of the #4 intake runner - is that where it should be? I'll see if Seth has that.

Volksaholic wrote: a914622 wrote: Is your undefind wire for the Knock Sensor? The knock is right about were you wire is?? Ill look at the wire color on mine tonight.

I think a914622 might be right about that mystery wire. I couldn't really see the color on mine because I didn't check it until dusk, but it looks like it may be pinkish with a blue stripe. That's just the terminal that should be inside a white, 2 pin connector which goes to the knock sensor through another pigtail.

Ranchero Dude,

If you send Tom Shiels a photo he'll be able to answer your question pretty easily. That's how I figured out several questions I had at the VW "black box" during my conversion.

- Chester すばる ! ! !

Wed May 14, 2008 5:31 pm

RE Extra Wire
I was unable to see the color on mine, I have a extra engine ill look at it tonight.

The knock sensor is.... Back on post page #2 , The pic of the vdo senders, It should be right under the left side of the coolent sender package.

Jcl