TheSamba.com :: View topic - 67 Bus Master Cylinder Reservoirs Available

Fri May 23, 2008 10:08 am

66 Shorty wrote: I'm not even sure what shape all the parts are in. But, it has been sitting for @ 20 years or so... !

Be sure to think about replacing the steel hard lines too. WW has German full steel line kits for less than $50 and it's really good insurance. Brake fluid is hygroscopic and absorbs water so the lines and cylinders rust and corrode from the inside out. That's why you should change the brake fluid every couple of years.

Wed Jul 02, 2008 4:37 pm

Okay,
I just got the MC rebuild kit from MOFOCO and the seals from Mercedes. Have not pulled the old MC out yet (it was leaking, probably was original and has been sitting for 15 years...what do I look for in order to determine if I need to hone the MC?

I don't know very much about brakes and want to do this correctly and safely.

Wed Jul 02, 2008 4:52 pm

ok where do i get the seals? im confused :shock:

Wed Jul 02, 2008 6:09 pm

Major Woody wrote: Okay,
I just got the MC rebuild kit from MOFOCO and the seals from Mercedes. Have not pulled the old MC out yet (it was leaking, probably was original and has been sitting for 15 years...what do I look for in order to determine if I need to hone the MC?

I don't know very much about brakes and want to do this correctly and safely.

Look for rust and corrosion in the internal bore. The rubber seals must ride on a near-perfect surface or they will be destroyed in short order. I recommend a flex hone rather than a stone hone. Might cost a little more $, but much easier to use. A 67 master has a 22.2mm bore so you can use a 7/8" flex-hone.

Flex hone

Stone hones

There are some pix here of wheel cylinder corrosion.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/bf60330.htm

And just pretend this link doesn't say clutch master .... principles are the same for a clutch master cylinder or brake master. I have always used brake fluid for honing and assembling brake parts, not mineral spirits as suggested in this link.
http://www.panteraplace.com/page153.htm

onebadoval56 wrote: ok where do i get the seals? im confused :shock: Which seals are you confused about? Reservoir seals are available from many sources, including your local Mercedes dealer (Mercedes part # is listed in Karl's post above). I've always been able to get mine from the local Napa.

Wed Jul 02, 2008 6:39 pm

yes the Reservoir seals what is the napa part#?

thanks for the help

Wed Jul 02, 2008 7:22 pm

onebadoval56 wrote: yes the Reservoir seals what is the napa part#?

thanks for the help

Unknown, the counter guy always just matched them up by size ... 7.3mm I.D. x 17.0mm O.D. x 13.5mm overall height

But if you don't have an old one, maybe they can cross reference one of these numbers ...

VW # 211-611-817A seal
ATE long # 03.3304-1000.1
ATE short # 390083
Mercedes # 000 295 00 50
And this number shows up on various online sites N3080-11738

Wed Jul 02, 2008 9:46 pm

Thanks again Dave. I'll pull the MC tomorrow and check the situation. If I find pitting or rust, I'll head on down to the local FLAPS for a hone.

Sat Jul 12, 2008 7:59 pm

Well, the ATE kit from Mofoco arrived. These are NOS and in great condition. The 1960s instructions that come with them are a joke though. I have never done a master cylinder rebuild before. It was easy to figure out which cups go where, but it was a real bitch to get the cups onto the pistons. They don't tell you how to compress the internal spring either. I just clamped the piston into a vise and pulled downward with my whole body weight while my wife tightened the screw. We didn't use brake cylinder paste, just brake fluid as a lubricant. I doubt it will matter.

I'm thinking about getting another kit as a spare. Who knows when these will be available again!

Sun Jul 13, 2008 7:38 am

Yeah, I bought a couple, too. Those little seals are a pain and it seems like they are going to rip. Nothing wrong with brake fluid if it's going to stay brake fluid on those parts. The brake parts grease is good for stuff to be stored and areas like the exit of the piston at the rod and wheel cylinders where the piston moves out. I like to lightly coat inside the boots. I use a jeweler's screw driver shank to swing the little seals onto the pistons while holding the seal for all it's worth till it rides over. It's a pain but more of a finesse. Of course, there can't be even the eintsy-weensyest nick. Try getting one off if you accidently get it backward. How did the master hone up?

Sun Jul 13, 2008 10:07 am

So....is "MOFOCO" selling a dual master cylinder rebuild gasket kit for the '67 only Type 2 master cylinder? Is it an ATE kit? Or is anyone else selling one?

Thanks!

Bill Bowman

Sun Jul 13, 2008 11:09 am

BulliBill wrote: So....is "MOFOCO" selling a dual master cylinder rebuild gasket kit for the '67 only Type 2 master cylinder? Is it an ATE kit? Or is anyone else selling one?

Here's a pic of the -201C ATE kit # 03.0370-3122.2. MOFOCO has 2 auctions on right now for $23/ea buy-it-now + $6 shipping - they still have 10 kits in 1 auction and 15 kits in the other. When they're gone, they're gone. Nobody else has listed them in ages.

Sun Jul 13, 2008 11:22 am

BarryL wrote: Yeah, I bought a couple, too. Those little seals are a pain and it seems like they are going to rip. Nothing wrong with brake fluid if it's going to stay brake fluid on those parts. The brake parts grease is good for stuff to be stored and areas like the exit of the piston at the rod and wheel cylinders where the piston moves out. I like to lightly coat inside the boots. I use a jeweler's screw driver shank to swing the little seals onto the pistons while holding the seal for all it's worth till it rides over. It's a pain but more of a finesse. Of course, there can't be even the eintsy-weensyest nick. Try getting one off if you accidently get it backward. How did the master hone up?

I did rip one (burr on the screwdriver I was prying with?) and ended up reusing an old one which still looked good. I ended up changing techniques and moved to a hook shaped dental instrument, very smooth shaft area, which eased it on there ok.
The bore honed up fine. The rust pitting went away, and I think I got all of the little half moon shaped divot out of the bore right at the front edge. I decided to go with DOT 5 fluid. Will see if that works out. It will be a while before I will be able to road test the bus.

Sun Jul 13, 2008 11:28 am

Major Woody wrote: I decided to go with DOT 5 fluid. Will see if that works out. It will be a while before I will be able to road test the bus.

DOT 5 silicone or DOT 5.1 polyethylene glycol?

Sun Jul 13, 2008 11:29 am

5 Silicone.

Sun Jul 13, 2008 11:34 am

dstefun wrote: MOFOCO still have 10 kits in 1 auction and 15 kits in the other. When they're gone, they're gone. Nobody else has listed them in ages.

Wow! I can't believe there are that many left. Maybe I'll snag a few more.

Sun Jul 13, 2008 12:00 pm

BarryL wrote:
Wow! I can't believe there are that many left. Maybe I'll snag a few more.

I'm surprised too - they have only sold 6 since I mentioned them in the other thread in April - and you and Chris are probably at least 4 of the 6. :-)

Sun Jul 13, 2008 2:18 pm

I can't find the ebay listing. Can someone post a link? Maybe its gone.

Never mind, I found it.

Mon Jul 28, 2008 2:34 pm

At tje risk of beating a dead horse, I have a couple of questions regarding the conversion to a dual circuit master cylinder in my '65. And before anyone mentions it, yes I did use the search function and read through innumberable posts that all get off track with suggestions, alternatives, and work-arounds.

IF I were to use a '67 dual circuit master cylinder, and both the reservoir and seals from WW, would I still need a spacer?, a different length rod?, and a "T" for the front lines?

Thank you for your help.

Mon Jul 28, 2008 5:27 pm

You will need no spacer, a 1967 only push rod or make one, and a T fitting. Plus if early splash pan used you will need to cut a hole in it for the longer MC.

Mon Jul 28, 2008 7:08 pm

Eric&Barb wrote: You will need no spacer, a 1967 only push rod or make one, and a fitting. Plus if early splash pan used you will need to cut a hole in it for the longer MC.

Thank you.