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Fri Oct 30, 2009 1:42 am

stock irs set up how much can i notch my springplates before i run into cv problems?

Fri Oct 30, 2009 7:22 am

T-1?
According to these guys 12°.

http://www.blindchickenracing.com/How_to/CVJoints_Axles/cv_joints_101.htm

I think they will take a bit more than that depending on HP, terrain and driving style.

Fri Oct 30, 2009 10:01 am

with prep.....way more.

Fri Oct 30, 2009 11:49 am

i heard you can clearance them, how do i go about that?

Fri Oct 30, 2009 3:27 pm

Be better off getting type2 flanges and using type 4 cvs but if you have to stay with type 1s heres some reading

http://www.dune-buggy.com/techtips/cv_joint_polishing.htm

Fri Oct 30, 2009 6:14 pm

Its alot of work, you have to change the boots cause they interfere. Why do you need so much travel? If you do your better off going with type 2. But for the record a type 1 will travel quite a bit, Class 11 used to have to urun them and they have been known to get way more than 12 degrees.

Fri Oct 30, 2009 6:43 pm

reason being i want the car to sit level, i put thing spindles on it and am cutting and turning the center section of the beam aswell,
. Already have 31's on the rear. But how much can i notch the springplate before i run into cv angle problems?

Fri Oct 30, 2009 7:18 pm

You need to go to Home depot and get a degree wheel, like 8 bucks. take your torsion bars out and cycle the suspension as you notch....

Sat Oct 31, 2009 12:03 am

You can't notch much with T1 CV's. At ride height I'm at 15* and on the stops with a slight notch I'm up to 17*. Make sure your CV's are clocked for max angularity. I had to move my lower shock mount up in the cup so I wouldn't rip my stock length shocks apart. No issues at full compression with 30" tires.

You can see the line I scribed where the stock spring plate location was before the notch. A little goes a long way at the tire.