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Fri Jun 13, 2008 7:45 pm

What will be needed to install a 69X85.5 piston and cylinder kit on to a 1500cc sp engine.Everything but the internals(crank,cam,and connecting rod)is new on the engine.I have had the heads off and looked at the old piston and cylinders and they are in good shape and the engine runs good but is getting tired.Will the 1600cc p&c's slip in or will they require boring out the heads and case?Another question is is it bad to only half rebuild the engine or will it be fine,and will a 30 pict-1 carb be ok for running on a 1600cc.?Thanks

Sat Jun 14, 2008 5:13 am

A half rebuild isn't a rebuild. If the engine is getting tired, it usually has issues with the heads.

Send them out and have the valves redone before putting things back together.

CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN!!!!!!!!!!!

Everything MUST be CLEAN! You can't get it clean without taking it all the way down. Its not that much more work.

Do it all and do it right. Then you can enjoy it for many more years to come.

Do a half ass job and you get to enjoy it for less then half the time before you have to work on it again.

Sat Jun 14, 2008 9:09 am

'69 baja wrote: What will be needed to install a 69X85.5 piston and cylinder kit on to a 1500cc sp engine.Everything but the internals(crank,cam,and connecting rod)is new on the engine.I have had the heads off and looked at the old piston and cylinders and they are in good shape and the engine runs good but is getting tired. Will the 1600cc p&c's slip in or will they require boring out the heads and case? Another question is is it bad to only half rebuild the engine or will it be fine,and will a 30 pict-1 carb be ok for running on a 1600cc.?Thanks

They will slip right in. No machining required.

As far as rebuilding the "outer" half...it might buy you some time, but you should start gathering parts for a new one and just start fresh.

The 30 pict-1 should work fine.

Sat Jun 14, 2008 9:38 am

KantDriveFast wrote:
The 30 pict-1 should work fine.

Be sure to get the late 30PICT-1. There are 2 different versions. The early ones had no power circuit in them.
Look down the throat of the carb, and there should be 2 brass tubes. One is the accelerator pump nozzle and the other is the power jet. Early carbs did not have the second nozzle.

Sat Jun 14, 2008 9:49 am

Russ Wolfe wrote: KantDriveFast wrote:
The 30 pict-1 should work fine.

Be sure to get the late 30PICT-1. There are 2 different versions. The early ones had no power circuit in them.
Look down the throat of the carb, and there should be 2 brass tubes. One is the accelerator pump nozzle and the other is the power jet. Early carbs did not have the second nozzle.

Since you mentioned it... these jets are basically identical, but (on mine), show different sizes: 65 vs 50?

Which goes to which?

To answer your next question...I took it apart, making no notation which went where...one they came out of the solvent, I noticed the different sizes. :oops:

Sat Jun 14, 2008 10:34 am

Sorry, but my fuel manual only goes back to 30PICT-3. So I cannot at this time give you the jetting for the 30pict-1 carbs.

Sat Jun 14, 2008 1:49 pm

The reason im only doing a half rebuild is because i dont plan on keeping this engine for long,ill be putting in a Wankel or 1.6L watercooled engine in within a year,so im just looking to get it running good enough to take me to school and back.The engine had a complete rebuild about 4 to 5 years ago so i hope the internals should last at least another year.Thanks

Sun Jun 22, 2008 9:05 pm

Im finished now,but what should i expect the engine to run like during the first start.And do you really have to hold the engine at 2500 to 4000 rpm for 15 minutes :shock: . for its first run.

Sun Jul 27, 2008 8:20 pm

i think it is best if you rebuild the whole engine i did.

Mon Jul 28, 2008 9:16 am

Hi Baja, I've had good luck with 3 Top End rebuilds, just be careful with your assembly (rings placed 120deg. apart!) and head torquing and I'm sure you'll be fine. the last time i did the initial start up I hooked up my tach and turned the throttle arm screw in until I had 2500 rpm. I'm not sure its OK to run it to 4000, or to vary the speeds, but I could be wrong. Also good to place a fan nearby if you have one to help cool things and give it a 10-15 minute "idle" run in as this engine will run hot hot until break in is done. After this, its best to change the oil before you road test. Good luck and enjoy!

Mon Jul 28, 2008 9:26 am

If your doing a top end build, why would you break the cam in again?

Rings break in under load, starting stoping, and going uphill.

You break the cam in by setting it at 2000RPM for 10-15min.

Sat Aug 30, 2008 7:28 pm

Its been a while since i have finished the p&c swap and it runs great,has alot of power(can get the car moving with no throttle even with 30" tires).But i have noticed some popping during deceleration not to loud but still noticeable coming out a stinger.Theres 2 things i think i have narrowed it down to first is the 30 pict 1 carb second is the exhaust header.

Im running a 120 main jet,55 idle,and 120 air correction and im thinking the main is a bit to lean to be using with a stinger and a 009 dizzy on a 1600 so my question is what would be a good main jet size for my engine (im at about 2000 ft.)

Tomorrow i will check for exhaust leaks and vacuum leaks.Thanks

Sun Aug 31, 2008 1:52 am

Also i should mention the valves are adjusted right,the timing is good.And my carb does not have a power jet.I'm thinking it is the main jet because the popping only happens when i rev it past about 2500 rpm and only on deceleration,I'm thinking it has become to lean because of the extra displacement.

Sun Aug 31, 2008 7:36 pm

I just checked for vacuum/exhaust leaks and there isnt anything so im convinced the problem lies in the carb,what could be causing my popping that would be in the carb.Thanks

Also heres a pic of the engine