TheSamba.com :: View topic - Help needed for bringing my Scat 2519 ccm back to life.

Sun Jun 22, 2008 11:59 am

Hi,

I have a big Scat engine at 2,5 liter that had about 260 horsepowers. This was connected to power and turned for first time on a couple of years. I have removed the flywheel to acces the oilpump. When I am turning the engine on the starter, the oil is running out next to the crankshaft. Do I have to change the gasket, or will the second gasket that closes between the shaft and the flange on the flywheel close this?

Best regards
Svein

Sun Jun 22, 2008 12:16 pm

I dont know about the SCAT cases but on a VW case you need the fan pulley on it to keep the oil from running out. Have you been cranking it without the pulley?

Sun Jun 22, 2008 12:32 pm

Yes I did crank it without the flywheel on.

Will try again tomorrow with the flywheel on and see what happens.

Sun Jun 22, 2008 1:06 pm

Thats the pulley not the flywheel. In any case you pulled the pulley off the crank exposing the seal, so yes now you have a oil leak. Put the thing back together, and the oil will stop leaking out.

Sun Jun 22, 2008 1:12 pm

Thank you.

Sorry for messing up flywheel and pulley. I am from Norway so technical translations is not the best sometimes.

Yes I removed the pulley,and that is the place where the oil is comming out.

Sun Jun 22, 2008 1:17 pm

My next question is then.

Where should I connect the oilcooler to this engine. I know from old pictures that the two connections low left are in and out on the oil filter.

I think I will also need a thermostat for the oil cooler, but how should I connect it?

Does someone knows?

Sun Jun 22, 2008 8:26 pm

HOly crap, dude. If you are trying to learn your way into aircooled VWs, that Scat case is not the way to start. :roll:

You can use that case for any application but aren't you better off with stock case for street use? And reserve that monster for the drag strip?

Also, not sure where you got that from but the fella who sold you that should be able to help you.

Is this 2500cc a grocery-getter in Norway? :lol:

Sun Jun 22, 2008 8:52 pm

Lower left fitting is out to filter, then on to the cooler. Upper left fitting is the return from the cooler feeding back into the engine. Also on the feed line to the pump, I would replace that machined 90* fitting to a tube type fitting, and replace that 45* fitting with a straight fitting. Thats the suction side and it needs to be as smooth as possible going from the sump to pump, and as short as possible too.
For a thermostat setup see.
http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/viewproductdetail.php?keyword2=ECO0028&cartid=0618200840488394

On the "selection required" pull down menu select thermostatic.

Mon Jun 23, 2008 12:06 pm

nsracing wrote: HOly crap, dude. If you are trying to learn your way into aircooled VWs, that Scat case is not the way to start. :roll:

You can use that case for any application but aren't you better off with stock case for street use? And reserve that monster for the drag strip?

Also, not sure where you got that from but the fella who sold you that should be able to help you.

Is this 2500cc a grocery-getter in Norway? :lol:

Cut him some slack Nick...........
I have customers with 2500cc engines running in woods buggies.

Maybe he just bought that engine/car and is trying to "get to know" it....... :)

Got to applaude him for his effort.........:wink:

Mon Jun 23, 2008 11:28 pm

turboblue wrote: nsracing wrote: HOly crap, dude. If you are trying to learn your way into aircooled VWs, that Scat case is not the way to start. :roll:

You can use that case for any application but aren't you better off with stock case for street use? And reserve that monster for the drag strip?

Also, not sure where you got that from but the fella who sold you that should be able to help you.

Is this 2500cc a grocery-getter in Norway? :lol:

Cut him some slack Nick...........
I have customers with 2500cc engines running in woods buggies.

Maybe he just bought that engine/car and is trying to "get to know" it....... :)

Got to applaude him for his effort.........:wink:

Thank you, you are correct.

I bought this engine as a long block, and got some parts following the buy. I am no trying to put this together, and need you help to manage this. It may sound crazy to start learning on this engine, but I am a crazy guy. And no, this is not a common engine in Norway.

Yesterday I made a new gasket for the oil pump and put back the pulley. There is now no sign of oil leaks. I also managed to clean the manifolds connecting surface yesterday, and will buy some new bolts to have them bolted to the engine today. After that follows the carburators two twin 44,5 Dellorto's. Will they be big enough for this engine?

Or should I use twin 48?

Mon Jun 23, 2008 11:32 pm

I would go at least 48's on this engine, and if you find it lacking up top (and it has engough cam to run there), go to Terminators. :twisted:

Tue Jun 24, 2008 12:32 am

What is Terminators?

Next question;

When I am turning my engine on the starter, I can see some movement in one of the pushrod tubes. I think that means that the pushrod is bent and have to be changed? Or am I wrong?

Tue Jun 24, 2008 9:24 am

novakitcar wrote: What is Terminators?

Next question;

When I am turning my engine on the starter, I can see some movement in one of the pushrod tubes. I think that means that the pushrod is bent and have to be changed? Or am I wrong?

I imagine a push rod is bent of rubbing the tube.
Or the tube is not suitable for your combination.
Just have to address the problem, then repair.

Terminators are JayCee carbs.
48 IDA Webers modified to 51.5mm

Tue Jun 24, 2008 9:35 pm

Terminators are 62mm carbs - different casting/body than modified 48 IDAs.

The most recent versions are "Terminator II's", which are made and sold by Geers Engineering.

http://www.geersengineering.com/Terminator%20Carbs.htm

Tue Jun 24, 2008 9:54 pm

novakitcar wrote: Yesterday I made a new gasket for the oil pump

Explain what you used to make a gasket...it would be nice to see pic's of material used...seeing that you are fairly new to someof this, we want to make sure you are headed the right way......and I would definitely check out the movement of the push-rod tube...It could be rocker ratio/incorrect geometry making the push-rod touch the tube.....either situation warrants a quick look....

Tue Jun 24, 2008 10:41 pm

Eye Opener wrote: novakitcar wrote: Yesterday I made a new gasket for the oil pump

Explain what you used to make a gasket...it would be nice to see pic's of material used...seeing that you are fairly new to someof this, we want to make sure you are headed the right way......and I would definitely check out the movement of the push-rod tube...It could be rocker ratio/incorrect geometry making the push-rod touch the tube.....either situation warrants a quick look....

The gasket where made of .4 mm gasket material. Some kind of paper soaked in oil.

Wed Jun 25, 2008 7:51 am

57HotrodVW wrote: Terminators are 62mm carbs - different casting/body than modified 48 IDAs.

The most recent versions are "Terminator II's", which are made and sold by Geers Engineering.

http://www.geersengineering.com/Terminator%20Carbs.htm

It appears there are more than one version of Terminators.
http://www.jaycee-ent.com/terminators.html

Thu Jul 24, 2008 4:25 am

I just found out the reason for the movement of the push rod tubes.

When I removed the pushrods I could se that they are not bent at all. There are not so much space around this engine, and it is the lower cooling tin that is making the problem.

Everything is ok before I am attaching the upper tin to the lower tin. When I connect these, the lower tin is bent in someway and push the push rod tubes out of position. When the engine is cranking, the push rods are pushing the tubes back in position.

Sounds like an easy fix, but it is not so easy that it sounds.

But, at least, I found the reason for this problem. And luckely it was not bent push rods.