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Sun Jun 29, 2008 3:01 pm

Hello, I have had my bus and bug for 13 years now. Ive replaced shitloads of axleboots. They just crack and leak. Im considering going to the plastic pretty ones. If they are known to leak then whats the difference between those that crack and leak in a year, or those that leak right away. I could use sealer on the plastic ones. Theres gotta be a way to NOT change these every year or less. Still searching for info on here...nothing yet.

Sun Jun 29, 2008 4:04 pm

Over many years, I have had no problems with my buses axle boots. The only time one ripped was when the transaxle was out of the bus and I had forgotten to loosen the clamps so the boots wouldn't be pulled on.
I put Permatex on each flat side of the boot before installing the screws, washers, and nuts. The seam should be in the nine o'clock position, facing towards the rear.

Sun Jun 29, 2008 4:05 pm

figures. after I order the empi ones, I stumble across the post that says most of them are shit. Well I ordered the empi ones so that should take care of 3 times a year boot replacement. What gets me is somebody should be able to come up with a boot that lasts. On GM vehicles, the cv boots last a hunderd thousand miles. They look almost like plastic. You would think good quality long lasting ones would be available for a swing axle if they could make a cv boot last a hundred thousand miles

Sun Jun 29, 2008 5:36 pm

are you installing the boots with the bus on the ground?

Sun Jun 29, 2008 6:00 pm

I have ramps I put the bus on for the additional clearance. Yes I put the screw halfs facing up so basically the screws were at the top of the axle. But all the boots I have bought so far.......just crack all over the place in a short time. Used ones that even said german. Just ordered blue empi ones. I will put the seam in the 9 oclock instead of 12.

Sun Jun 29, 2008 7:21 pm

I was checking out my boots today . engine is out of the car. I figuared I should check them. seams are at 12 oclock. They seemed to be leaking but I cleaned them up and there s no tears . I checked towards the bottom as well. they look pretty new although they are vw german ones and the rubber is still supple . no cracking or any splits. Knock on wood theyre still good but I did notice leakage on the rear right drum . I think its brake fluid. not sure but I dont have any experience with changing out brakes on a bus :?: :? I know now is a good time to check this out . Damm more things to get done on my DC before its on the road :x

Sun Jun 29, 2008 7:24 pm

I like the Febi Bilstein brand.
The ones that say VW on them don't seem to last well.

Sun Jun 29, 2008 7:59 pm

My transaxles and RGB's seem to leak from every possible orifice, but I've had good luck with the VW logo axle boots.
Somebody was selling a PILE of them at Bugjam a few years ago, and I bought a bunch. Installed two sets.
No leaks, knock wood.

Sun Jun 29, 2008 10:31 pm

The boot is stiffer when the seam is at or near the top because the flat rubber along the seam is stiffer dues to its heigth than when the seam is on the side and bends at its thin side, which is why it should be positioned at nine o'clock.
The axle boot is a dust cover but does catch some oil that escapes past the daisy and the bell end of the axle tube. Once the oil is out, it ain't never going back in the differential.

Sun Jun 29, 2008 11:40 pm

you can prolong the life of al your rubber goods with a good dusting of silicone spray

Mon Jun 30, 2008 6:46 am

Ages ago I bought the "sweet" looking accordion type yellow ones. Needed to replace just one but they come in pairs. Replaced the one. This was quite a few trannies ago and the yellow one NEVER really sealed good enough and always "marked" its spot. :roll:

On the recent tranny swap I replaced the fancy one with a german stock one eventhough I still have the other "new" yellow one. No leaks now and the other rubber one is STILL the very old one. As already mentioned the only times I've had to replace a boot is from carelessness in handling. :?

Mon Jun 30, 2008 8:19 am

I've used the German one-piece, Brazilian one-piece, VW bolt-on and Febi bolt-on and they've all lasted forever. What kind of gear-oil are you using? I don't trust the Brazilian ones but that is just in my own head so far.

Mon Jun 30, 2008 8:51 am

I've put more sets of axle boots on my bus than I care to think about, and I have no idea why. It goes through them like they're made of tin foil. I've never had a set last more than a year or so. I've tried every brand I can find. Tried installing them with the seam straight up and on the side. This was at stock height, lowered just a little and at it's current height. On three different transmissions, too. And with just standard 80w-90 gear oil. No special sythetic or with additives or anything of the sort. I'm about to change the gear oil again, though, just to try it. I don't know what else to do... :? Any recommendations for a good gear oil that will help with a weak sychronizer?

Mon Jun 30, 2008 9:27 am

Campy wrote: The boot is stiffer when the seam is at or near the top because the flat rubber along the seam is stiffer dues to its heigth than when the seam is on the side and bends at its thin side, which is why it should be positioned at nine o'clock.
The axle boot is a dust cover but does catch some oil that escapes past the daisy and the bell end of the axle tube. Once the oil is out, it ain't never going back in the differential.

9 oclock is how i always was told to place the seam also push slack into them with the suspension loaded prior to tightening outter clamp.

Mon Jun 30, 2008 9:34 am

i seem to replace my axle boots about every one or two years at minimum. my feeling is the extreme heat of the southwest dries them out because they always develop severe cracking then eventually tear. i install my boots with the seam in a horizontal position like the bentley says to.

Mon Jun 30, 2008 10:24 am

Andrew wrote: I've put more sets of axle boots on my bus than I care to think about, and I have no idea why. It goes through them like they're made of tin foil. I've never had a set last more than a year or so. I've tried every brand I can find. Tried installing them with the seam straight up and on the side. This was at stock height, lowered just a little and at it's current height. On three different transmissions, too. And with just standard 80w-90 gear oil. No special sythetic or with additives or anything of the sort. I'm about to change the gear oil again, though, just to try it. I don't know what else to do... :? Any recommendations for a good gear oil that will help with a weak sychronizer?

People seem to say good things about Lucas oil treatment and Marvel mystery oil.

Mon Jun 30, 2008 1:20 pm

Id say if you are going through them like cold cereal, its probably install.
Ive never had a set fail on me, and ive used all kinds of crazy replacement ones. i mainly like the OG style, like what WW sells. those have never failed on me. now i havent had the cars they were on for more than 3 or 4 years, but still thats long compared to whats been spoken here. hope that helps. :) install em with the suspension loaded, and plenty of room to breathe. no stretched out.

Mon Jun 30, 2008 2:09 pm

You guys keep saying to install them at 9 o'clock. What way is that looking. Someone said to have the bolts pointed to the rear end, that would be 9 o'clock passanger side one and 3 o'clock on the driver side.

Is that what you guys mean. If the Bently says to point them straight up, would that be best.

I am just getting to replacing my first set. The PO had the driver side at about 4 o'clock and the Passanger side at 2 o'clock. I don't think he really cared where they ended up. They tore all the way around, completely into 2 pieces. they were completely gone. It had no problem marking its spot. I bought the Wolfsburge West ones. So we'll see how they hold up.

Mon Jun 30, 2008 2:49 pm

Slow36hp had a good idea that I forgot to mention in my thread: after tightening the large clamp, I always pushed in the small end of the boot, a little, held it, then tightened the small clamp. That way, the boot won't be stretched as much as the axle tube goes up and down.
I mentioned nine o'clock in my previous thread, which means that the seam will be at the rear of the tube. Don't put the seam at the top of the axle tube because it will be harder for the boot to bend and put more stress on it.

Mon Jun 30, 2008 2:52 pm

mightymouse wrote: Id say if you are going through them like cold cereal, its probably install.
Ive never had a set fail on me, and ive used all kinds of crazy replacement ones. i mainly like the OG style, like what WW sells. those have never failed on me. now i havent had the cars they were on for more than 3 or 4 years, but still thats long compared to whats been spoken here. hope that helps. :) install em with the suspension loaded, and plenty of room to breathe. no stretched out.

I've always put them on with the back of the bus either on the ground or on a pair of ramps so the weight of the bus was on the suspension. I've tried bunching them up toward the transmission when installing to give them freedom to move around. I've tried installing them stretched out, and I've tried installing them just "normally" or however you want to put it...