TheSamba.com :: View topic - how much should the carb float

Mon Jun 30, 2008 6:28 pm

In my quest to figure out why my 30/31 Pict carb is leaking from the throttle lever pin area lately when I run the engine for 5 mins - then shut it off (that's when it begins to leak). I have went thru the fuel pump issue (I put on enough gaskets to stack 1/16" high, still leaking), I thought it was due to my newly purchased repro fuel cap creating a back-pressure (nope, does it when cap is off), so NOW I'm at the carb. I blew thru the fuel inlet to see if the float is operating - air passes thru- doesnt when turned upside down, the float needle valve seems to be working. The only thing I can think of- that has been suggested is the float is allowing too much fuel to sit in the bowl. I was told that I could slightly bend the float pin area down somewhat to not allow excess fuel to sit there - and therefore leak out. My question is- how much fuel is suppose to fill the bowl before the float..floats? When I removed the carb, the float was resting agains the back of the bowl and the bowl was more then 1/2 full. I then added more fuel and the float rose- to the little brass fitting where the fuel ran out thru it into the carb throat.
I'm at a total loss..

Mon Jun 30, 2008 7:40 pm

That sounds about right. Don't bend them. Just put thicker gaskets under the needle/seat. the gasket should be .040" copper or aluminum. The float should just not fill with gas or water if held under for awhile. Take out your needle with a 14mm wrench and clean it and hand blow it.

Tue Jul 01, 2008 7:01 am

I took out flaot needle, blew thru it- there is a copper washer in place.
Let's see what happens now...

Tue Jul 01, 2008 8:43 am

decided to leak still- so I'm done with it.., dropped it off at the shop to get rebuilt.

Tue Jul 01, 2008 5:21 pm

The carb does not need to be rebuilt it needs to be adjusted.

The needle and float need to be checked.

If the shaft bushing is worn from to tight of a trottle cable and the rebuilder does not rebush it. you will have the same problem after it's rebuilt.

Tue Jul 01, 2008 6:14 pm

Are you saying the carb which is leaking from the throttle lever area - does not need anything other then the float and float needle valve checked? OR, that since the float and needle valve seem to be working (IMO) then it is probably the shaft bushing and should be replaced in conjunction with a rebuild kit?

Hopefully, I won't have these same issues in another 2K miles.

Tue Jul 01, 2008 6:35 pm

A rebuild kit. Will not have a bushing for the throttle shaft.

It's a machine in part.

Tue Jul 01, 2008 7:27 pm

I was going through the EXACT same thing last week with my 34 pict. I ended up swapping out the carb with a back up I had. Oddly enough the one I took out is in better shape all around than the one in there now. Silly thought but if you doubled up the copper washer would that help??? I'll be putting my original carb back on this week after I've gone through it again. The shaft bushing is in much better condition.( and it was rebuilt last summer)

Carb problems scare the crap out of me as my kids are in the back most of the time.

Wed Jul 02, 2008 4:01 am

60sunroof wrote: A rebuild kit. Will not have a bushing for the throttle shaft.

It's a machine in part.

lovely - :roll: another "cheap fix" to my never-freakin' ending problems..

Wed Jul 02, 2008 6:08 am

Mowser wrote: Silly thought but if you doubled up the copper washer would that help???

The bowl has to have enough fuel in it so that when the throttle is fully open as in freeway cruising it won't starve for fuel. It you double up on the washer that might be too much and it will close the supply prematurely. I don't know the specs on it but there has to be one specifying how much to set the float at! :?

Wed Jul 02, 2008 8:43 am

I'd also try another needle/seat, preferably a Solex. It doesn't matter how perfect your throttle bush is unless you don't want to see that pesky fuel dripping. I still think the Brosol pumps are too strong.

Wed Jul 02, 2008 9:17 am

carb is being looked at- i spoke to the guy checking it out- and his consenus is there shouldn't be any fuel dripping either - regardless of the throttle bushing worn or not - which has to have some gap for the throttle lever to pivot, or it would bind. Now that's not to say the bushing isn't worn - but i've only run it for maybe 6 months all together.

Thu Jul 03, 2008 12:24 pm

Search button under "Carb Leak":
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=192539&highlight=carb+leak

Thu Jul 03, 2008 12:33 pm

BarryL wrote: I still think the Brosol pumps are too strong.

then ask the vice president of sv2s about the original 1967 fuel pump he offered you. you know him very well,and he lives in san diego. last time i looked he has 4 of them.

Thu Jul 03, 2008 1:39 pm

I searched the samba and found a post that said the fuel level should be about 19.2mm. I took an old popcycle stick (grape) and made a mark 19 mm from the grape end (for contrast). I pulled the top of the carb after shutting down the motor. I used the popcycle stick as a dipstick and found the fuel level too high (over the mark). I removed the needle valve, tested it, and then added another shim/spacer under the needle valve. The float now shuts the valve before the carb overfills. I hope my gas mileage goes up. I used to smell gas before.

Fri Jul 04, 2008 9:45 am

Does anyone have any recommendations on who can rebush the throttle shaft on a Pict 30/31 Carb? I just re-installed my carb that had a rebuild kit installed and it still seems to be leaking around the throttle shaft.

Fri Jul 04, 2008 10:27 am

Dang, it never ends, huh?
Keifernet can probably do it.

Fri Jul 04, 2008 12:04 pm

Thanks- That's who I was trying to think of.
Well, I just got back from picking up some fireworks and hooked the carb back up. Thinking, maybe the dripping from earlier this am might have been condensation from the carb kit being installed / tested? So, I took it around the block a bit and so- far no dripping.

*edit--dayum, spoke too soon, after 5 mins. a small droplet formed - smelled of gas.

Fri Jul 04, 2008 1:15 pm

What you need to do is remove your fuel pump and leave a gasket between the block and stand and one more gasket on top with the washers and bolts fairly tight. Now put a rule on the rod and measure how far it sticks up from the shortest to the longest stick up as you rotate the engine by hand. Post the results here. Measure how long your rod is also.

Fri Jul 04, 2008 1:50 pm

getting ready to go loose some fingers to fireworks- i'll post tomorrow-

my rod is the 4" long alt. rod- i have messed with extra gaskets on the fuel pump base - this past week -
i ran my carb to adjust it- so far no leaks..i have also dropped keifernet a pm -