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Tue Jul 08, 2008 10:22 pm

i have a 1600dp dual rel case full flowed 1.5 sump oc47 mahl oil filter
i have about 800 miles on the rebuild my oil press is low ,cruising pressure is about 25psi according to the vdo gauge and sending unit,at a stop its like 5psi i have a 26mm pump running castrol 20 50 my oil hoses are 38 inches each from eng to filter housing, i talked to the builder and he said its because of the long hoses so he sent me a new oil press relife kit that is supposed to raise the pressure ive read a bunch of the threads on this and it seems that some use them and some dont, i have not checked press with a mechanical gauge yet.should i put in the new piston and spring kit he sent??? and yes its an empi kit.
thanks guys.
jeff

Tue Jul 08, 2008 10:40 pm

Pulling the springs and checking them out may be something to look in to, more or less to make sure you have the correct ones.
The kit sent to you is most likely a booster kit, all it does is raise the oil pressure on the high side, not at idle.
Also I don't see a problem at all with the length of your lines, that just over three feet each, about normal.
My first question to you is what oil temp are we talking about here with these low pressures?

Tue Jul 08, 2008 10:43 pm

he said its a booster kit, im not sure about the oil temp i dont vave a gauge for that but the engine doesnt seem hot, my 1300 ran hot this one doesnt "seem" as hot as that did.

Tue Jul 08, 2008 10:48 pm

Well I think the best way to answer your question is to get an idea of your oil temp.
A simple long probe cooking thermometer will give you an idea of where your at as far as temp is concerned. Drop it down the dip stick hole after a good drive and you see the low pressures.

Tue Jul 08, 2008 10:50 pm

never thought of that you mean the type used when frying a turkey.

Tue Jul 08, 2008 10:52 pm

whats a good-normal- temp range

Tue Jul 08, 2008 10:53 pm

Yep like a turkey thermometer, just trying to get a rough idea.
160-220*f

Tue Jul 08, 2008 10:54 pm

will do thanks man.

Wed Jul 09, 2008 8:34 am

You'll need to get the oil up to 400 to thoroughly cook the turkey to an internal temp of 165. :lol: This is the cooking forum, right?

Wed Jul 09, 2008 11:25 am

Is it not like 3 mins a pound for cook time?

Sat Jul 19, 2008 1:21 am

ok so i installed the boost kit cruis psi is 40-50 but idle is just over 5psi and ive adjusted the valves twice to 004 and still have noise from valve train, when i changed the pressure valves i droped the sump and it had metal shavings in it, not alot but some. btw my oil temp runs about 150. engine runs strong as any 1600dp ive seen but the oil pressure and what appears to be cam gear slivers in sump kinda makes me leary about this engine. should i have builder replace it or is this some how normal for the acvw, this is my first real vw engine project. thanks
jeff

Sat Jul 19, 2008 6:33 am

Why you think the pieces are from the cam gear? If you have an aluminum oil pump cover that is more of a possibility.

What was the temp?

Sat Jul 19, 2008 3:02 pm

oil temp at last check was 150. i read a story on acvw engines and it said that sometimes the cam gears will loose some metal as they seat in. ive seen this on big block fords. should i pull the oil pump cover and inspect or is this what might be normal?

Wed Jul 23, 2008 6:59 pm

did the builder recomend 20/50?
thats way to thick for a new engine... :?

Wed Jul 23, 2008 8:20 pm

Jeff,

cam gears DO NOT wear in or anything like that. Cam gear spec is to have 0.00 to 0.002 inch of backlash. 0.002 is the loose end. Since the spec is for 0 it means that as the engine warms up case will expand hence cam and crank lines will be further apart.

Now if somebody shoved an oversized cam gear it will have no chance of wearing in properly. When you start the engine for the first time gear will get worn out beyond spec in no time, before engine even has time to warm up and expand. So you'll get a very loose cam gear, and shitty timing.

I am kind of weary of recommendation to put a booster kit on fresh rebuild. What kind of rebuild was it? just top end or the whole thing?

1600dp w/ 26mm pump and oil filter should not have low oil pressure.

Anton

Wed Jul 23, 2008 10:15 pm

Did your builder blueprint the oil pump?
Mine had low oil pressure untill i took out the oil pump and blue printed it.
Made a HUGE difference. I'll never build another engine without doing it.

Thu Jul 24, 2008 12:45 am

craigman wrote: Did your builder blueprint the oil pump?
Mine had low oil pressure untill i took out the oil pump and blue printed it.
Made a HUGE difference. I'll never build another engine without doing it.

AMEN brotha!!

Thu Jul 24, 2008 8:13 am

I have been away for awhile and surprised this thread is still going.
As suggested pull the oil pump and check it out, not only may the set up on the pump be bad, but also you said you found metal in the oil so the pump may be damaged too.
Obviously we don't know what you found in the way of metal, but it sounds to me like your engine has a bearing problem and is in need of a rebuild. Hence the low oil pressure.

Thu Jul 24, 2008 8:08 pm

sorry ive been sick so i havnt been on in a couple days, yea the builder said to use 20 50 castrol after the first oil change,it was a total rebuild.im going to hook up a mechanical gauge this weekend and run it, like i said when you first start it it has great oil pressure as it warms up the pressure drops. after running on the road at 55-60 mph i came home and checked oil temp it was just over 150 and gauge pressure showed 5 psi at idle-1100rpm. we all know electrical gauges/senders can be wrong so i want to rule that question out. i need to drop the idle down but i didnt want to until i figured out this oil pressure deal. i think the deal is going to be a different engine my trust in this one isnt good, i build my cars to drive not to sit or be towed, idont want to be on a long drive and seize up or kick out a rod due to oversite. hey thanks alot guys for the feed back this is a great place to get some wisdom.
jeff

Sat Aug 02, 2008 11:29 pm

so i put on a mechanical gauge and ran it start up was 80psi and as it idled and got warmed up you could watch the pressure drop drove it and got her all nice and warm ( ambient temp was 90 ) oil temp was just under 160 pressure at case was 8psi at 1100 rpm. so the builder is building me a new engine i spent alittle more and went up to a 1776,will still be full flow with the sump and im going to put on the progressive i bought from air cooled, i know how every one feels about these carbs but i want to stick with a single carb set up, unless i can find a tri power set up. so i will update next week when i get the new engine and run it. im wondering if i should use rotella 15 40 after break in instead of castrol 20 50. LN said that brad penn 20 50 is the best but man 20 50 in a new/rebuilt engine is kind of heavy isnt it?
thanks guys keep on buggin.
jeff