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Wed Jul 09, 2008 7:44 pm

Put an "auxiliary" battery into 1985 Westfalia a la Go Westy's component kit... only difference is I used a different battery (same type) & placed it under the rear seat (where the P.O. had one located). So, other than extended wires (a couple) all other changes were as dictated by the instructions... First road trip & the auxiliary battery was drained to death.
The interior lights faded into oblivion, no stereo (that was my death)...
& (coincidently???) I could not light the propane to the refridgerator.
Hep! need a little hep here.
later,
Peter

Wed Jul 09, 2008 8:33 pm

Get a multimeter and start checking connections. Sounds like your aux battery isn't charging. Could be a couple of things (not in order of checking):

bad ground
bad relay
not enough driving time (aux does NOT charge as fast as regular batt.)
bad connection
bad battery
other continuous drain

Best,

Lanval

Thu Jul 10, 2008 9:00 am

changed out the relay
drove over 5 hours (round trip)
will clean the ground connections (again) today.
will check all connections to the relay (again) today
buy a new mulimeter
hoping for further guidance....
also, could a lack of electrical connection prevent the refer from sparking the propane?
later,
Peter

Thu Jul 10, 2008 1:37 pm

laterPeter wrote:
also, could a lack of electrical connection prevent the refer from sparking the propane?
later,
Peter

On my '81, (has 182A Dometic) without DC connected to fridge, I can still light it.

I'm not certain (yours is likely a 182B) but it shouldn't need 12 volts to light.

You hold the yellow button down, and gas enters combustion chamber. You hit the piezo sparker (like your BBQ) and flame is lit. After ~ 30'' you let go of the yellow button. The thermo sensor in combustion chamber now provides a small voltage to keep a valve open so gas can flow. No flame, no heat, no mv's, no gas flow)

What guage wire inbetween starter battery and aux. battery? (PO did this I assume) I ran #10 to mine. It's possible that if gauge too small, it won't charge as fast.

Was aux battery charging properly before you swapped in new one? i.e. was it hooked up right in the first place by PO? And, is the charging system of vehicle working properly?

You can check the function of relay by applying ground and 12V+ to 85 and 86. (diagram labelled on relay) When connected, there should be continuity between 30 and 87. If not, either you're not getting 12V+ and/or ground to switch side (electromagnetic coil) , or the relay is faulty.

If you're not clear on the concept, you want the blue wire from alternator, to "trigger" "on" the switch side of relay, so 12V can pass through from positive post of starter battery (actually 12V from alternator) to positive of aux battery. This only happens all is hooked up right, and when engine running with a known working charging system.

Also it wouldn't hurt to charge the new battery (if deep cycle a "smart" charger may be needed) before using it again.

Hope that helps.

Neil.

Thu Jul 10, 2008 4:44 pm

it would appear that the relay didn't ground the connection as it should...
Dustin, from GoWesty, expained a SIMPLE resolution to the problem & it appears (a few minutes so far) to be working.... (the interior lights are back & bright... just hope it isn't just the newly charged battery).
Now the refridgerator... hope I can get that working tomorrow....
hopefully!!!
& thanks to Vanagon Nut
& Lanval for your wisdom.
later,
Peter

Fri Jul 11, 2008 9:52 am

laterPeter wrote: it would appear that the relay didn't ground the connection as it should...
Dustin, from GoWesty, expained a SIMPLE resolution to the problem & it appears (a few minutes so far) to be working.... (the interior lights are back & bright... just hope it isn't just the newly charged battery).
Now the refridgerator... hope I can get that working tomorrow....
hopefully!!!
& thanks to Vanagon Nut
& Lanval for your wisdom.
later,
Peter

You're welcome.

With aux battery still low, if the interior lights come on, or are much brighter with engine running, then likely wiring to/from relay etc. is ok.

If aux battery low and interior lights came back on or much brighter with engine OFF, it's possible you are drawing power from the starter battery. Not ok.

With the engine off, the isolator relay should be off thus separating the two batteries. The only time the batteries are connected, is when engine running, isolator relay "on", and alternator sending ~12V to them both.

As for your fridge, there's lots (even recently) on lighting it on LP.

Does it work on AC? If so, then if it lights on LP, it should cool down.

Read the instructions on the door.

With inside of van dark, look for spark in the little inspection hole in lower LH side of fridge when you push on the ignitor. If spark happens each time you press the ignitor, then good. Beyond that the fridge needs the right mix of air/LP present when trying to light it, the proper amount of air/LP continuing to come into the combustion chamber and the exhaust needs to vent properly. i.e. good flow in/out of combustion chamber.

Some causes of a no light (in no particular order) are:

clogged intake or exhaust pipes.

Clogged jet.

Flooded combustion chamber with too much LP (yellow button held down too long)

not enough fresh air pumped in or getting in. (see above)

Cracked intake/exhaust tubes, air leaks into combustion chamber (bad gaskets).

Most common:

not enough air pumped in or flooding. (assuming spark ok)

If it still won't light, and your drain tube is clear, try blowing air in through this drain tube (at bottom LH side. This might prime the chamber. IF tube clogged, clear it with a piece of coat hanger or whatever, BUT make sure you SUCK out the debris with shop vac or whatever. Work your way into the tube and remove debris as you progress. DON'T push the debris back into the combustion chamber!

Clogged intake/exhaust tubes and/or debris in combustion chamber?

There have been those who get their fridge to work after sucking debris (yes spiders/bugs DO get in the combustion chamber!) out of the combustion chamber via intake/exhaust from exterior of Westy, using a shop vac or some such. IMHO, this is a "last ditch" effort as one could *possibly* dislodge more crap in the combustion chamber. But it can work.

Cheers,

Neil.