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Mon Jul 14, 2008 8:54 am

Just picked up a 65 square from original owner. pretty clean. Low miles. Doing the brake check, he says they stopped working last year. No fluid, no sign of leakage around drums, oily mess under rear seat on drivers side. It seems that the fluid leaked out there somewhere. Added fluid, went to bleed the brakes, but nothing comes out rear at all...dry. But I do have brake pedal now, after pumping 60 times. I am thinking plugged line somewhere between master cylinder and the rear. I need to get fluid to the rear to check for leak under rear seat somewhere, wire through the line from the rear???? Anyone else had this before??? I haven't.

Mon Jul 14, 2008 9:18 am

If you don't get any fluid out it's definitely plugged! Seems like I've heard of using clutch or speedometer cables for clearing blocked brake lines? Might try blowing air through it in the opposite direction?

Mon Jul 14, 2008 11:59 am

All of these brake lines are easily replacable. Replace them. My 65 square got a hole in the hard line right under the back seat. After replacing that line I found out my soft lines were shot also. Replaced that and the T connection.

Don't F with brakes. Going fast is cool. Stopping is cooler.

Mon Jul 14, 2008 5:38 pm

If you have an oily, gooey mess under the carpet on the drivers side rea, my personal experience is a broken or rotted brakeline. The brake line lies on top of the floorpan inside the car. I have had to replace the line in this area on 2 of my 3's. Just wanted to help. Good Luck!

Mon Jul 14, 2008 5:48 pm

nodrenim wrote: If you have an oily, gooey mess under the carpet on the drivers side rea, my personal experience is a broken or rotted brakeline. The brake line lies on top of the floorpan inside the car. I have had to replace the line in this area on 2 of my 3's. Just wanted to help. Good Luck!

Bingo. My thoughts exactly. It's amazing how much brake fluid can get absorbed by the carpets, and how much can "disappear" into the tunnel! :lol:

Mon Jul 14, 2008 7:54 pm

6T5 square wrote: All of these brake lines are easily replacable. Replace them. My 65 square got a hole in the hard line right under the back seat. After replacing that line I found out my soft lines were shot also. Replaced that and the T connection.

Don't F with brakes. Going fast is cool. Stopping is cooler.

X's 200. Cheap & easy fix. Why fuck with god knows what parts. And change the grommets while your'e at it.

Mon Jul 14, 2008 9:30 pm

localboy wrote: 6T5 square wrote: All of these brake lines are easily replacable. Replace them. My 65 square got a hole in the hard line right under the back seat. After replacing that line I found out my soft lines were shot also. Replaced that and the T connection.

Don't F with brakes. Going fast is cool. Stopping is cooler.

X's 200.

Yep

Mon Jul 14, 2008 9:32 pm

words of wisdom boys!!! As soon as I looked under the rear seat and saw that "gooey oily mess", I thought brake fluid too, just couldn't see where it was coming from. I will follow your advice, and replace all the brake lines , why fool around with anything else. I will let you know how it goes. Thanks a lot.

Sat Feb 14, 2009 1:26 pm

well That went nowhere...... :lol:
it's in my garage now being worked on :D

New rubber for the windows on order from ISP West.
Just welding up the pinholes in the floor pan and need to make a mount for the seatbelt base on the floor by the door. Anyone have a closeup of the later mounting point for the seat belt?

No holes under the battery .... sweet :D

Not sure what to do with the brakes?????
Rebuild the stock system? or upgrade to discs?
Hopefully a daily driver soon.

Sat Feb 14, 2009 1:37 pm

W1K1 wrote:
Not sure what to do with the brakes?????
Rebuild the stock system? or upgrade to discs?
Hopefully a daily driver soon.

If a daily in the rain, consider disk brakes. Drum parts are getting hard to find, and disk brakes parts, depending on the brand, one can get a F.L.A.P.S.. Disks are a huge plus in the rain, because they shed the water. Disks also do not hold the heat in, which in hard braking, heat causes fade, I.I.R.C.. The main hurdle will be converting to dual circuit (real plus for a daily) and finding the five bolt pattern.

Edit:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=342412

Sat Feb 28, 2009 6:25 pm

So today we pulled the motor, thanks to DP for sending me the workshop manual :wink:
When we started trying to get the motor off the trans you could move "everything" pretty easily, so we yanked the transmission out too. The rubber mounts are mush. This must have been a interesting car to drive before.

So looking at things today, there was a major leak on the drivers side axle, the brake pads on the back are worn through the rivets :shock: , the shocks died years ago, the shift linkage bushing is mush.

Next is clean up the motor & transmission and the area in the car where it used to reside.

I need to find a patch for the pan under the drivers seat now too. That was the side that had the least of the pinholes after we cleaned it up, but it is paper thin. I tried welding with .023" on the lowest setting and it just takes the slightest zap to blow a dime size hole in it. So I am going to have to find a 12x16 piece to patch that spot.

Sat Feb 28, 2009 7:02 pm

ISP West might be able to source some OG sheet metal for your pan patch. I think Mike Fisher also had pan halves for sale recently and may still have them.

While I would have to agree with Adriel's earlier comment that disk brakes are easier to source parts for, I would still suggest a drum brake rebuild. The parts aren't really all that hard to find, and if sources for NOS cylinders eventually dry up they can be sleeved. ISP already offers relined shoes on an exchange basis.

Save that E!

Sat Feb 28, 2009 7:08 pm

Thank you for the correction. I have been around some 1500 folks, and heard bits and pieces.

Any shoe can be relined, and cylinders can be honed and rebuilt. That is what we did for Oma's Chevy (gosh that thing is a pain).

Sat Feb 28, 2009 7:09 pm

try backing the holes with a sheet of copper when welding

Sun Mar 01, 2009 7:42 pm

I use the copper trick all the time but this tin is thin..
I have a couple options for the replacement section.

Motor out
Just a few years of dirt & oil accumulated.
Got some old school brazing on the intake manifolds in a few places, not too sure what to do there.

Not a lot of air flow around the cylinders with the build up of crud

The dirt was even thick around the plugs & manifold under the tin

I need to take a couple pics of the tins from the bottom, they weigh at least a pound a piece.

Sun Mar 01, 2009 7:53 pm

W1K1 wrote: Got some old school brazing on the intake manifolds in a few places, not too sure what to do there.

If you mean the brazes that attach the intake and heat riser tubes to each other on either side, those are from VW.

Wed Mar 04, 2009 9:50 pm

I was scraping the grease off the motor tonight and actually got down to a few numbers.

The case is : 0693298
distributor: JU4 111 905 205M
0231 147 002
carb Solex: 32PHN1

The vin plate has Fargest. Nr. 365037xxx
Heizg. typ.3/255 Prutz.^^^S 039

Wed Mar 04, 2009 11:28 pm

That's a very early '65, from August or September of 1964. Question: is there a letter N stamped in the case near the engine number?

Original cylinders. Probably never been apart before.

Thu Mar 05, 2009 6:48 am

No other numbers or letters unless it's on the next rib

Is there a trick to getting the distributor off? I undid both bolts and it doesn't even turn, never mind coming out.
I was going to leave it till I split the case.

Fri Mar 06, 2009 3:57 pm

Is there a points replacement available for this distributor?
new tune up parts? points, cap, condenser

distributor: JU4 VW 111 905 205M
bosch : 0231 147 002

Rebuild kits for ?

Solex: 32PHN1