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Russ Wolfe Sat Mar 13, 2010 5:42 pm

what flywheel??
If it is a 6V flywheel, you need the steel gasket between the crank and flywheel when measuring the endplay.

W1K1 Sat Mar 13, 2010 5:46 pm

DPR 69mm counterweighted crank and 8 dowel 12V flywheel.

Russ Wolfe Sat Mar 13, 2010 5:50 pm

Aftermarket flywheel?? what is the depth where it mates the crank. I have been running into aftermarket ones that that is not right.
Where are your shims?? I hope still in the tool box/parts pan, at this point.

Adriel Rowley Sat Mar 13, 2010 6:03 pm

W1K1 wrote: DPR 69mm counterweighted crank and 8 dowel 12V flywheel.

I have a 69mm counter-weighted, almost positive it is also DPR, and had tight end play. I used the shims that go on the end of the crankshaft, pushing the flywheel out. Took a bit to get it perfect, but I did. A micrometer is a must, B.T.W..

Russ Wolfe Sat Mar 13, 2010 6:15 pm

Are you measuring your end play with a dial indicator, or with feeler gages??

W1K1 Sat Mar 13, 2010 7:58 pm

Aftermarket flywheel, and I'm measuring with the dial indicator.

Russ Wolfe Sat Mar 13, 2010 8:45 pm

Drive the crankshaft all the way toward the flywheel. measure the depth to the bearing from the end of the crank.
Measure the depth of the flywheel from the shim thrust surface. Subtract the flywheel measurement from the from the crank measurement. That is your total end play. If you are working in inches, subtract .003" from that and that is the thickness of the 3 shims that you need.
If the flywheel measurement is greater, than the crank depth, then you have a problem with the flywheel or the crankshaft.
Do you still have your old flywheel? If you do, try it and see what happens.

W1K1 Sat Mar 13, 2010 8:48 pm

Thanks
I'll do some measuring and see what's up.

W1K1 Sat Mar 13, 2010 9:58 pm

drive the crankshaft all the way toward the flywheel. measure the depth to the bearing from the end of the crank.

=.326"

Measure the depth of the flywheel from the shim thrust surface.

new flywheel = .323"
old flywheels = .317" .319"


Subtract the flywheel measurement from the from the crank measurement.
That is your total end play.subtract .003" from that and that is the thickness of the 3 shims that you need.

So that would be 3 of the .000" shims right :shock:

Russ Wolfe Sat Mar 13, 2010 11:12 pm

Damn aftermarket parts.
This flywheel does have the groove for the oring right?
Just making sure you do not have a 6V flywheel.
I would talk to your crankshaft people. Something is not right here.
Even if you reuse your old flywheel, you still only have .009" without shims.
You should have at minimum about .030" without shims.

W1K1 Sun Mar 14, 2010 6:49 am

I got the crank from a buddy who didn't use it for his project, he went to a stroker instead. And yes it is a 12V flywheel, I checked it against my stock ones.

Can I have the machine shop cut the thrust face of the flywheel back?

Russ Wolfe Sun Mar 14, 2010 9:53 am

I do not see why not. If it is one of the common aftermarket ones, it is cast iron, and may need to be ground back and not turned. To get a good, smooth, machined surface.

W1K1 Wed Mar 17, 2010 5:21 pm

good news today, my carbs came back from Keifernet and look just like new :D








I'm gonna drill out a couple crank shims to check the flywheel endplay before I take it to the machine shop just to make sure I don't have something else going on.

W1K1 Wed Mar 17, 2010 8:44 pm

Okay now something is seriously screwed up here with this new flywheel.

I took the .010" metal shaft end shims and drilled them out for the 8 dowels to see if the flywheel would have the correct endplay if I had the machine shop take off .030" from the thrust surface.

put them on the shaft and tightened it up..... no clearance :evil:

So i drilled out the stock flywheel for the 8 dowel, bolt it on, lots of endplay.
Took it off and put a couple shims in. Bolt it back on, and voila ....017" endplay. So one more shim would get us what we want for endplay.

So now I have a 8 dowel flywheel that is balanced for the assembly that has something screwed up ??????
and a stock flywheel that works but isn't part of my balanced assembly.

Now what do I do?

Russ Wolfe Wed Mar 17, 2010 9:58 pm

I will not use those cast iron Chinese flywheels, after I had seen 2 failures.

Adriel Rowley Thu Mar 18, 2010 9:23 am

W1K1 wrote: Okay now something is seriously screwed up here with this new flywheel.

I took the .010" metal shaft end shims and drilled them out for the 8 dowels to see if the flywheel would have the correct endplay if I had the machine shop take off .030" from the thrust surface.

put them on the shaft and tightened it up..... no clearance :evil:

So i drilled out the stock flywheel for the 8 dowel, bolt it on, lots of endplay.
Took it off and put a couple shims in. Bolt it back on, and voila ....017" endplay. So one more shim would get us what we want for endplay.

So now I have a 8 dowel flywheel that is balanced for the assembly that has something screwed up ??????
and a stock flywheel that works but isn't part of my balanced assembly.

Now what do I do?

The flywheel can be balanced by itself. Just explain that it is just the flywheel, and they have an adapter to mount it to the machine.

Congratulations on getting it figured out.

W1K1 Thu Mar 18, 2010 9:29 am

I'm going to do some measuring, but i have the feeling it's the radius on the flywheel edge that is coming into contact with the seal face or case.
Something is not right between the crank seat and the back of the flywheel for it to still bind up with .030"shims attached to the end of the crank, and the stock flywheel to just bolt up with normal endplay.

notchback Thu Mar 18, 2010 9:30 am

W1K1 wrote: good news today, my carbs came back from Keifernet and look just like new :D





That's some beautiful Type 3 porn. =P~

Tram Thu Mar 18, 2010 11:08 am

notchback wrote: W1K1 wrote: good news today, my carbs came back from Keifernet and look just like new :D





That's some beautiful Type 3 porn. =P~
:lol: :lol: :lol: I don't care what anybody sez about kiefernet, he OK. I thought I was the only asshole that polished them with a brass brush Dremel like that. :lol: :lol: :lol: Now if they've been polished inside as well, he's certifiable just like yours truly. :lol:

W1K1 Thu Mar 18, 2010 9:36 pm

okay did some measuring tonight....

old 12v stock flywheel



new flywheel is .050" higher at this edge.
the other 12v flywheel i dug up was .040" higher as well.




now i measured the distance from that face to the thrust face.
the 2 12v stock ones were .630" and .590".
while the new one measured .545"
So I'm glad I didn't run over to the machine shop to get the thrust face machined back :shock:



Now looking at the radius of the edge, it was different too.

stock 12v flywheel #1



stock 12v flywheel #2



new flywheel



that is an 18 mm magnet, it shows the radius is definitely not the same and could be the cause of the new flywheel taking away the endplay as soon as it's bolted on.

Now I'm sure CIP is not going to take the flywheel back since it has been balanced, so what do i do now????????



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