| P7rns |
Tue Jul 22, 2008 3:57 pm |
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Hello all,
I seem to have exhuasted my knowledge of the VW engine and its workings so I'm after some advice.
Since replacing the engine on my 64 Bus, after replacing the throw out bearing (the engine was out of the van for six weeks), I can get it to turn over but not start. There is a very slight spark at the HT lead and nothing at all at the plugs. This is after replacing the leads, plugs, distributor cap, rotor arm and the coil. So, I'm guessing the problem is electrical of some sort.
Its a stock 1500 engine but ,has had electric ignition added sometime during its life.
Any ideas ??? |
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| arthurnugen |
Tue Jul 22, 2008 4:07 pm |
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Is this a new engine or one that was removed from the bus? Did it run before you removed it? You mentioned electronic ignition. Is it connected properly?
Do you have gas, er petrol, coming out of the fuel pump? |
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| WM971252 |
Tue Jul 22, 2008 4:39 pm |
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did you switch the wire from the oil sender???
I did that once. |
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| slow36hp |
Tue Jul 22, 2008 4:43 pm |
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| test fire your coil without the distributor if it is hot pull the distrib and rotate it ign on and test the coil if that is hot check the individual leads if they are hot your problem most lkely isnt electrical. then like arthur said how bout your petrol? |
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| Campy |
Tue Jul 22, 2008 5:30 pm |
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| Put a set of points and a condenser in the distributor and try it. |
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| shigeru1972 |
Wed Jul 23, 2008 10:11 am |
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I have owned this bus for 20 years. My brother had it stored for 7 years.
I got it to crank over on the starter and it would sputter on starting fluid.
I cleaned the carb and drained the gas tank and after I did that I have no spark. It is getting fuel. I have replaced the cap, rotor, points, coil and wires. I did not change the condenser or plugs as I have never seen a condenser go bad and the plugs all tested out fine earlier in the day.
I checked to make sure I had the condenser lead plugged into the neg side of the coil. Verified this was correct against my 70 Dcab and 71 KGhia. I don't know what else it could be?
Any sugestions????
Thanks, Matt |
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| arthurnugen |
Wed Jul 23, 2008 10:15 am |
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Matt, it's always that one part you did not replace that is the culprit. :) Replace the condensor.
Your problem still sounds like it may be fuel related to me. How do you know it is getting fuel? Did you turn it over and have someone pull the fuel line from the carb to see if the fuel pump is working properly?
Lots of things can fail in a bus that has sat for 7 years. |
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| dstefun |
Wed Jul 23, 2008 10:30 am |
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arthurnugen wrote: Matt, it's always that one part you did not replace that is the culprit. :) Replace the condensor.
Your problem still sounds like it may be fuel related to me. How do you know it is getting fuel? Did you turn it over and have someone pull the fuel line from the carb to see if the fuel pump is working properly?
Lots of things can fail in a bus that has sat for 7 years.
I agree with Arthur and I have seen bad condensors. Not often, but common enough.
Since it sputtered on starting fluid you had spark at that point. Has any of the wiring changed since then? |
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| Campy |
Wed Jul 23, 2008 10:53 am |
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| If a spark coming out of the coil's secondary wire (wire going from center of coil to the distributor cap) is weak or there is no spark, use an ohmmeter to check it for resistance or just replace it. If you replace the wire and there is no improvement, get your ohmmeter and put one lead on the no. one side of the coil and the other lead on the middle of the coil (where the secondary wire goes in), and look at the higher scale on the ohmmeter to determine the resistance. I can't remember what the range of resistance should be so look in your motor manual, but if it is real high, you will need to replace the coil. |
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| shigeru1972 |
Wed Jul 23, 2008 1:24 pm |
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I will change the condenser tonight.
The fuel pump is fine and is delivering fuel to the carb. Carb is clean and functioning.
I will also clean the grounds for the battery and trans tonight.
Any chance the volt regulator is the issue?
Thanks, Matt |
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| dstefun |
Wed Jul 23, 2008 9:18 pm |
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shigeru1972 wrote:
Any chance the volt regulator is the issue?
As long as you have 12V at the positive coil terminal during cranking, no. That is something you can check easily enough.
If the V/R is flaky and taking down the 12V line, then all things are possible. But I think you would see or smell some hot wires if that was the case. |
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| P7rns |
Thu Jul 24, 2008 3:12 am |
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| The engine was working fine before I removed it, the gas/fuel pump is working still !!! |
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| arthurnugen |
Thu Jul 24, 2008 9:51 am |
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P7rns wrote: The engine was working fine before I removed it, the gas/fuel pump is working still !!!
Then I would recheck your electrical connections. |
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| dstefun |
Thu Jul 24, 2008 12:20 pm |
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Time to get back to basics
Why won't my engine start? Thanks to Speedy Jim.....
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/htm/eng_strt.htm
My Car Won't Start! Thanks to Rob and Dave ....
http://www.geocities.com/vwresource/car_wont_start.html |
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| shigeru1972 |
Mon Jul 28, 2008 7:54 am |
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Checked all the connections and found out the 41 year old wire going to the + side of the coil was crap. The insulation was cracked and had also been spliced together at some point. I replaced the wire and bingo I had spark... Started right up and idled like a kitten.
Turned out all the ignition parts that I replaced were good! They are probably 20 years old or more.
Now onto my gas tank cleaning and brakes.
Should have her on the road soon.
Thanks for the help. |
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