| Klaussinator |
Wed Jul 23, 2008 1:43 pm |
|
Went for a drive today, and when I got home noticed the battery was sizzling a little bit. Felt hot to the touch. Check the batt. w/ engine off - got 12.4v . Checked at idle- 14.2v . Rev the engine - 17.4v !!!!
I assume this is a regulator problem, but how do I check it? Glad I noticed the problem before our trip in a few days, but we'd still like to go!
Appreciate the help . . . |
|
| Sunshine_the_bus |
Wed Jul 23, 2008 1:54 pm |
|
| I hope it's your regulator and not diodes in the alternator. Usually tho', a stuck voltage regulator will only let it charge all the time at around 14v. When more power is made (i.e. 17v), it's a good indication that there's an internal problem with the alternator. Peace! |
|
| Klaussinator |
Wed Jul 23, 2008 2:04 pm |
|
| Guess I should include, this is a `73 1800 dual-Solex w/ 55A std alt. |
|
| manxmaniac@aol.com |
Wed Jul 23, 2008 4:07 pm |
|
Having too much voltage is bad! It will destroy your battery & cause acid to come out of it & get everywhere & I have seen them blow up!!!
You need to take your Bus somewhere they can do a charging/alternator test, like a Sears Automotive Center. Most do not charge money to do a test.
The odds are it is your voltage regulator! |
|
| Wildthings |
Wed Jul 23, 2008 4:20 pm |
|
Sunshine_the_bus wrote: I hope it's your regulator and not diodes in the alternator. Usually tho', a stuck voltage regulator will only let it charge all the time at around 14v. When more power is made (i.e. 17v), it's a good indication that there's an internal problem with the alternator. Peace!
This is bull, a stuck regulator will not control the voltage at all and cause the alternator to give full output at whatever voltage the battery will take, like 17V. Bad diodes will cause a drop in current and a subsequent drop in voltage, they may also cause a drain on the battery after shut down. Diodes are not likely the problem here.
Hopefully Klaussinator has not damaged his alternator or battery at this point, he either needs a regulator or has some problem with his wiring. |
|
| Klaussinator |
Thu Jul 24, 2008 9:48 am |
|
Hey, thanks all for the replies! I got this thing figured out . . .
A local shop also said that if the diodes in the alternator are bad, there will be little or no voltage output. Since the regulator is external, they recommended moving the contacts by hand to see if you could hear a difference in the alternator or see a change on the meter. At first, I didn't, and the contacts were moving themselves according to load but the voltage remained high.
I pushed a little harder on the contacts and BINGO! the voltage went to normal. Took the regulator out and cleaned the contacts real good. It now sounded more like a click when I moved it, as metal was hitting metal.
Put it back in, and we're good to go! :lol: Still planning to keep a spare regulator with me just in case . . .
Thanks again, Hope this might help the next guy. |
|
| Sunshine_the_bus |
Thu Jul 24, 2008 4:04 pm |
|
| Well I'm glad I was wrong. And that it was a simple fix ;). Peace! |
|
| GeorgeL |
Thu Jul 24, 2008 5:36 pm |
|
manxmaniac@aol.com wrote: Having too much voltage is bad! It will destroy your battery & cause acid to come out of it & get everywhere & I have seen them blow up!!!
You need to take your Bus somewhere they can do a charging/alternator test, like a Sears Automotive Center. Most do not charge money to do a test.
The odds are it is your voltage regulator!
Too much voltage has already pegged this as a regulator problem.
Sending someone to a Sears Automotive Center for a diagnosis is like sending them to Dr. Kevorkian:
http://www.google.com/search?q=sears+auto+fraud |
|
| Millennium Falcon |
Fri Jul 25, 2008 9:54 am |
|
GeorgeL wrote: Sending someone to a Sears Automotive Center for a diagnosis is like sending them to Dr. Kevorkian:
I know Kevorkian owned a bus, but I am not sure if he was a very good mechanic. |
|
| manxmaniac@aol.com |
Fri Jul 25, 2008 11:09 am |
|
Quote: Sending someone to a Sears Automotive Center for a diagnosis is like sending them to Dr. Kevorkian:
http://www.google.com/search?q=sears+auto+fraud
After I posted this, I almost went back in & edited it.
I personally have had more good experiences with Sears than bad ones!
Usually, they're fairly good at just doing a charging systems check, if you watch them & know basically what they are doing.
Most do the check & advise you! |
|
| GeorgeL |
Fri Jul 25, 2008 3:24 pm |
|
manxmaniac@aol.com wrote:
I personally have had more good experiences with Sears than bad ones!
That's mighty faint praise! :)
My experience is this:
I had a Sears battery go bad with a few months left on the warranty. I checked the charging system myself. The alternator kept a steady 13.7V at the battery regardless of load which means that the charging system was working perfectly.
I took the vehicle to Sears. They insisted upon doing their own "comprehensive charging system test" before they would replace the battery. They hooked up their box and voilą!, told me that my alternator and voltage regulator needed replacement as well as the battery. The salesman also said that would not warranty the battery unless I let them do that replacement. I had to go up to the top service manager to get them to honor the warranty on the battery without the needless repair.
Obviously, that was the last time I used Sears for any car part!
That's their game. They get the customer in for a warranty claim or a "free inspection" and then parlay that into repairs whether you need them or not. They've been sanctioned for this several times by different states, but they persist, preying upon the people who don't know any better and who trust Sears. |
|
Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group
|