| 77westyberlin |
Fri Jul 25, 2008 10:15 am |
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went to remove my temp sensor II. MPG sucked and it failed the resistance test (>3000).
soaked the bugger in penetrating oil. wouldn't budge. soaked it again, left it overnite. wouldn't budge. soaked again, waited, went for it and the bugger has snapped clean off!!
any advice?? i've heard their might be another tapped hole on the other side, but all i can see are smaller holes for the tin.
is there anwhere else i can mount this thing to get me moving, at least to a friendly mechanic?? is there a workaround? |
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| Randy in Maine |
Fri Jul 25, 2008 11:04 am |
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The shop guy may be able to get it out with some heat and an easy out.
Been here? http://www.ratwell.com/technical/LimpingHome.html
If you have AMC heads (as most of us do anymore), there may be a tapped 10mm x 1.0mm hole on the rear side of cylinder #2. |
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| barryben |
Fri Jul 25, 2008 11:07 am |
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Better to earth the wire from the ECU rather than leave it hanging on the stub of the TS2. At least that will simulate a warm engine rather than an extremely cold one. I have a short wire permanently connected to the double relay earth with a connection on the other end that will fit the wire coming from the loom to the TS2 - used for testing mostly (tip I picked up off here).
I'd imagine the bus won't run well at all when warming up, but should settle down once the engine's warm.
No idea about getting the old one out. |
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| Wildthings |
Fri Jul 25, 2008 11:18 am |
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For now you can probably ground out the wire to the TSII, though you may have hard starting. I have known people who ran the sensor lead to the front of the bus and connected it to a 0-3000 ohm variable resister. Turn it to 3000 ohm to start and then crank it down to zero as is warms up, an electric equivalent of a manual choke.
Probably best to try and get the old one out in the long run or use the hole in the right head if it is there. |
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| 77westyberlin |
Fri Jul 25, 2008 11:57 am |
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thanks guys......
i have the hole on the other side......i think......but it seems smaller. looks like it should be used for securing the tin, and my TSII won't go in the thread.
i'm liking the idea of running a 'manual choke'.
does anyone know how much effect the TSII has when the engine is at 'normal' operating temp? i can handle rough running when cold, and using the throttle a bit more |
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| Wildthings |
Fri Jul 25, 2008 12:17 pm |
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| You must have the TSII sensor connected when hot or have the wire grounded somehow, otherwise the CPU will default the cold run condition and you will be running extremely rich. |
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| 77westyberlin |
Fri Jul 25, 2008 12:54 pm |
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okay, so leave it ungrounded to start her up, ground it when she's warm........
how lean will she run when it is grounded, and at normal operating temp?
the only mechanic i trust to attempt drilling out the old sensor, or taping the hole on the other side, by cyl 2, is 30k away....... |
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| VDub Campers Ltd. |
Fri Jul 25, 2008 2:47 pm |
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| Fix it its not too hard. drill it and re tap it if an easy-out doesnt work. |
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| busdaddy |
Fri Jul 25, 2008 3:51 pm |
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77westyberlin wrote: how lean will she run when it is grounded, and at normal operating temp?
Like it would on any warm day, you probably won't even notice a difference.
So you're not even going to have a go at drilling it out? What are you, chicken? or wise enough to know you and tools don't mix? |
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| Karl |
Fri Jul 25, 2008 6:29 pm |
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| First...... find a 10 x 1.0 tap before you drill! |
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| 77westyberlin |
Sat Jul 26, 2008 12:37 am |
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oh i'm gonna have a go at drilling it out.......and tapping the original hole.
i just want to know that if i make a mess of it, i can still drive it my mechanic if i make a mess of it.
sounds like if i ground it out she won't run too lean when she's up to normal operating temps.
that gives me the confidence to at least having a go at drilling it out myself.
heck, even if i make a mess of it, JB weld the sucker in there!! |
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