TheSamba.com :: View topic - Rekeying a lock

Wed Apr 21, 2010 1:33 am

wxm1873 wrote: i was just going to give this a try after buying a set off ebay, put my key in and it turned the lock :shock:

I know how you feel. I went to a local show a year or so back and parked up in my club area and then.....locked the keys in the cab. We tried a couple of members keys but then the guy parked next to me tried his and bingo!

Max

Wed Apr 21, 2010 1:48 am

thaks to all involved in this thread, i will start to work on my sliding door locks :D

Fri May 07, 2010 10:06 am

wow, just used this thread to re-key the locks on my 64 bug. Things are a little different in a bug, but close enough to work for me!

Sun May 09, 2010 6:23 pm

This was asked earlier and have not seen an answer in this thread and I have searched. I have found a sweet chrome rear hatch handle with matching chrome engine hatch. Can the barrel be taken out and changed to fit my key I have for the rest.

thanks for the help I would really like to use these.

thanks

Jason

Sun May 09, 2010 7:07 pm

figured it out. I took the small screw out (which I did before) but this time I pushed the lock out and it came out smooth, did the wafer things and shazaam it is working great. I think before I have been trying to pull the cylinder out the back instead of pushing it out the front of the handle. duh.

Nice tutorial. Keep up the good work.
I will post before and after pictures of the new swag.

thanks
jason

Mon May 10, 2010 9:44 am

A great post!

But, the approach I took was to use a dremel with a grinding stone and simply top off the offending wafers --- worked just fine.

Thu Jun 17, 2010 2:42 am

I have no idea what yr front door he used, but from 70 to 77 thereis a set screw holding the barrel in...it's right next to the handel mounting bolt..if you tap and that barrle doesn't move STOP you will screw up the barrel, the handel is his photo's shows that groove. plus the photo showing the spring also shows the set screw.

The early and late barrels with not interchange as they are.. early barrels have the groove for the set screw machined all the way around at the key end is a casting to limlt movment.

late model barrels this groove is only machined half way around and that stop casting sits 180 from that groove, also the casting for the spring is 180 off

Mon Aug 02, 2010 2:11 pm

I recently purchased a pair of Westy's off Craigslist. They came from a forclosure..and were most certainly headed to the scrap yard. Couldnt let that happen....So now they are sitting here in my parking lot. Problem is I have no keys to either bus. Im hoping that since they are in fairly decent shape...that maybe everything is keyed alike on each bus. Ive removed the drivers side door handle off each bus.....Do I just need to take the handles to a locksmith? Any ideas?

Mon Aug 02, 2010 2:37 pm

IF they are keyed alike, and IF they have not been messed with, you can get the key code off the side of the piece that screws to the handle on the inside that presses into the lock mechanism. You can also find the bus' key code on the ignition switch when removed IF that is also original. You can then take that code to a locksmith and have a key made. Gabriel Garcia on this site does a great job, as well as a few others that I have not personally used but read about on here.

Tue Oct 26, 2010 12:37 pm

Hi there, I know this is an old post and hope someone can help. Just recently rekeyed my two cab doors to work off the same key as the engine key and your tutorial worked a treat thanks :) the only lock left to rekey is the sliding door. Is there a way of doing this without having to take the deadbolt out? Already made the same mistake as orangeena with my last handle and knocked the cog off by hammering the deadbolt out. Any advice woule be great thanks.

Tue Oct 26, 2010 1:41 pm

Welcome, you're going to have to elaborate on this "deadbolt", it's not a term I'm familiar with on a VW sliding door lock (I can't think of anything that needs hammering to remove). Also what year is your bus?

Tue Oct 26, 2010 1:59 pm

Hey Busdaddy,

Thanks for getting back to me. Its a bit of a frankenstein of a bus :roll: and got bits of everything on it but its originally a 77' LHD Bay Window. The sliding door was so rotten i had to replace it so bought an early bay sliding door for it. I'm not sure if deadbolt is the right term for it sorry, was just going on the previous post as thats what orangee had said it was. I'll post a couple of pics to look at.

[img]

[img][/img]

Tue Oct 26, 2010 2:01 pm

How to post photos. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6

Tue Oct 26, 2010 2:32 pm

thanks for the link,

You can tell i'm still finding my way around the forums.

The first image shows the handle in the unlocked position (i think) and the second image of it in the lock position. The last time as i did not have the key i had just hammered that piece of metal through as orageena did in the previous post and although at that stage the lock could then come out to be rekeyed it was left useless as i had broken it. Was just wondering what i do at this stage to get the barrel out without damaging anything. Any help would be appreciated thanks.

Tue Oct 26, 2010 3:47 pm

Don't mess with that thing, there's a super tiny set screw you need to find and remove to get the cylinder out of the lock IIRC.

Thu Oct 28, 2010 8:42 am

Just out of curiosity, there's not supposed to be something that resembles 1/4th of a paper clip jammed in chamber of the lock on my 72 type 1.. is there?

EDIT: Disregard the previous. After easy dismantling of the lock, it became obvious the "paperclip" was not part of the assembly. I thought it may ofhad something to do with the spring action of the wafers, but after seeing each wafer had its own tiny spring, it became obvious it was just some crap jammed in my lock.

After removing the "paperclip" and spraying and scrubbing every individual wafer and the inside of the chamber, the lock went back in the door, locked my door, then unlocked my door. It was awesome! Thank you!

Mon Dec 20, 2010 10:04 pm

Okay so I did everything necessary to rekey my driver side lock and it works. The issue Im having now is that when I reassemble everything and put it back on the door and use the key to unlock it and lock it, whenever I pull the key out the whole tumbler mechanism come out with it. What am I doing wrong??

Tue Dec 21, 2010 10:04 am

Justin Qutami wrote: Okay so I did everything necessary to rekey my driver side lock and it works. The issue Im having now is that when I reassemble everything and put it back on the door and use the key to unlock it and lock it, whenever I pull the key out the whole tumbler mechanism come out with it. What am I doing wrong??

CANT come out if the lever held with a screw is actuallt attached.
-open it back up and make sure its all the way in when attaching the actuating tang at the end of the lock tumbler. make sure the keys ear is pionting to the back of the handle.

Fri Feb 18, 2011 7:12 pm

I just used this tutorial for my '71 doors. This is definitely the best guide out there. Though you might want to say something about the rear hatch, I can't figure out how to get to that barrel.

Sun Apr 24, 2011 10:13 pm

I recently rekeyed my engine hatch and slider locks, here is what I found.
The lock cylinder for the slider is easy to get to and comes off with 1 screw.
Note the silver cylinder in the bottom of the latch assembly.

The cylinder cap needs to be removed. The top is an extra cylinder I had for photo reference. Note the 2 crimp areas on the cylinders, there are 2 more on the reverse side.
Carefully pry them open with a small wedge.... I used a utility knife to start them and then finished with various flat head screwdrivers.

The circular gasket fits into the obvious groove.

Next I carefully pried off the"circlip" from the back of the cylinder, one tooth at a time as I rocked it off. It needed a little flattening to fit back on tightly later.

The tumbler slides out then, make sure the key is in so wafers don't go flying. The beginning tutorial covers the wafer and spring part. Clean up all of the crud in the mechanism so everything slides smoothly.

Assembly is the reverse of above. Crimp the cylinder cap back on with a hammer and a flat head screwdriver. I used some silicone grease around the circular gasket before installing the cylinder cap.
Now is the time to put on a new sliding door lock seal if needed.

Onto the engine hatch lock.......

Once the lock is removed I held the catch in with a pair of vice grips, not too tightly as to break it but enough to line up the retaining pin shown by the arrow.

This retaining pin pops out easily with a small punch or screwdriver. It has some off-center stampings that hold it in the hole. It will drive out easily from one side but not the other.
The lock cylinder slides out easily once the pin is removed.
Note the spring and circular gasket. The lock tumbler is held by a set screw.

Once you clean out the gunk from mechanism, put in the new wafers and slide the tumbler back in. The set screw must not be too tight or it will bind the tumbler.
I used some silicone grease on the spring and gasket. Drive the retaining pin back in and install.

Hope these pics help you all to get the basic idea of what I encountered.

Now to find an engine lock seal..... old one cracked. Ideas?

ENJOY!