| orbot |
Tue Aug 12, 2008 12:15 pm |
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May i ask a question regarding wiring.
Do you really need the voltage regulator?????
Can i hook everything up without it?? |
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| Dale M. |
Tue Aug 12, 2008 12:26 pm |
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Yes you can hook up everything with out it.... When car wiring burns up from over voltage or battery goes dead from not being charged, you will realize you may need one......
You will need one if you run a generator. (either 6 or 12 volt)
You will need one if you run a Motorola or Bosch AL78 (4 wire) alternator..
You do NOT need one if you run a Bosch AL82 (2 wire alternator)...
Dale |
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| orbot |
Tue Aug 12, 2008 5:35 pm |
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So what the difference between an alternator and a generator, how can i identify them.
Here is what i have.
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| orbot |
Tue Aug 12, 2008 5:36 pm |
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Oh yeah forgot.
On the second pic the bottom bolt has a B+
The upper thingy has a D |
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| baja5 |
Tue Aug 12, 2008 6:25 pm |
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| that is an alternator with a built in regulator.If it is good then run it. |
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| cwrisley |
Tue Aug 12, 2008 6:27 pm |
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Thats the Bosch AL82 (2 wire alternator). Its internally regulated. Power goes to the "D" and alternator warning light wire goes to "B+".
Does your car have an external voltage regulator on it now? |
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| orbot |
Tue Aug 12, 2008 6:43 pm |
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| Isnt the other way around, power to "B" and the light to "D" |
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| cwrisley |
Tue Aug 12, 2008 6:54 pm |
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orbot wrote: Isnt the other way around, power to "B" and the light to "D"
No. There should be two wires connected to the D post, one goes to the fuse block and one from the starter. The alt light goes to B post with spade connector. But I would be interested to find out what happens when its connected backwards!! :wink: |
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| orbot |
Tue Aug 12, 2008 7:22 pm |
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| Well the spade is the "D" |
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| cwrisley |
Tue Aug 12, 2008 8:21 pm |
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orbot wrote: Well the spade is the "D"
:oops: :oops:
haha...funny thing about it.....
My bad bro. I had it totally backward in my head. Youre right, the B post gets power and D spade gets the light. Sorry bout the mix up!! |
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| pafree |
Tue Aug 12, 2008 8:58 pm |
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this is the wiring diagram that i like to use. |
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| Dale M. |
Tue Aug 12, 2008 9:01 pm |
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pafree wrote:
this is the wiring diagram that i like to use.
YAH!..... Use this sketch....
Dale |
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| Karpet |
Thu Sep 04, 2008 6:14 pm |
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I have a Motorola alternator, and the previous owner never connected the warning light circuit. It won't charge like this, I know. When I have attempted to connect an active light circuit, the bulb will not go out when the engine is running.
My question - Does this circuit need a specific watt warning bulb to operate correctly?
If not then where can I get a replacement voltage reg to replace the old one?
Karpet |
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| pafree |
Thu Sep 04, 2008 6:37 pm |
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i started using this bulb holder. you can change the bulb if it goes out.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062366
i tried the smaller bulbs and they created too much resistance. i went with the larger bulbs and if i can remember i think it was 14 guage wire.
if your car is wired like the diagram you can TOUCH a jumper with the car running from to D+ to B+ on the alternator and see if the alternator activates and your bulb goes out, this will ruleout your alternator. |
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| Karpet |
Fri Sep 05, 2008 5:34 am |
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Well that answered some of my question. But not specifically what Wattage the bulb should be? At the risk of being a bother, what spec does a "larger bulb" have? I plan on going down to 'the shack' and poking around so I might just figure it out.
I do appreciate the diagnosis procedure, that I will try right away.
Thanks,
Karpet |
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| pafree |
Fri Sep 05, 2008 5:47 am |
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| i remember it being a twin pack 14volt bulbs. they have out lasted the sealed kind they have. |
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| Dale M. |
Fri Sep 05, 2008 9:35 am |
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The only time where wattage of bulb should be a issue is if you have a run on issue. To "big" a bulb may not have enough resistance to prevent run on ... Any bulb of about 2 watt (at 12 volt) or less should be fine... Think stock bulbs may be something like 1.2 watt (cant find specs at this moment)..
Dale |
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| Karpet |
Fri Sep 05, 2008 3:05 pm |
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Ok, so I tried the diagnosis method suggested above. Lo and behold the light did go out when the b+ to d+ was jumped out.
So now what? The jumping turned the light out and the meter showed the voltage on the battery jumped from 13 volts to over 15 volts. Am I to believe that this is a regulator issue? If so where can I find one? I have looked and nothing has turned up on the interweb. The alt in question is a Motorola 8AR2064K12VN 51 Amp. Thanks for all the help guys.
Karpet |
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| pafree |
Fri Sep 05, 2008 3:30 pm |
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Karpet wrote: Ok, so I tried the diagnosis method suggested above. Lo and behold the light did go out when the b+ to d+ was jumped out.
So now what? The jumping turned the light out and the meter showed the voltage on the battery jumped from 13 volts to over 15 volts. Am I to believe that this is a regulator issue? If so where can I find one? I have looked and nothing has turned up on the interweb. The alt in question is a Motorola 8AR2064K12VN 51 Amp. Thanks for all the help guys.
Karpet
you mean it actually worked.
this just means your not getting enough voltage through the bulb and wire to activate the regulator. if your setup worked before you might have a dirty or corrided connection. if it is a new set up, try running a heavier guage wire tempory to the back of the car from the light to see if this is the problem area. make sure your battery terminals are clean and battery charged fully. |
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| Dale M. |
Fri Sep 05, 2008 3:30 pm |
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Check here for 73-74 Beetle ( BOSCH AL78 same as Motorola)....
http://aircooled.net/new-bin/viewproductdetail.php?keyword2=LCH0004&cartid=
Dale |
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