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Sun Oct 04, 2009 10:32 pm

bugninva wrote: actually there is play there when the arms' grubs are tight... shouldn't be a half inch, but there *is* side to side movement, the arms don't pull up against the beam, they ride against the seal.. this is why (my estimation) that airkewld uses the Delrin bushings and thrust washers so you can get the play out..

I'm guessing that the factory pieces are grease seals, never intended to be thrust bearings... Mine were brand new (stock) with the beam rebuild. I'm sure that they would suffice on a cruiser, but for hard driving one should probably get the parts mentioned above.

The horrible play mine has now is from one seal (practically) missing.

Tue Nov 03, 2009 6:22 pm

Monroe air shocks MA 756 will fit on a ball joint front end. I just installed on a 1970 type 1. You will have to make modifications to the shock bushing sleeve though. You will need to cut the sleeves flush with the bushing and drill the sleeve out with a 1/2 inch drill bit. I suggest drilling first because you'll want some length on the sleeve to hold with channel lock pliers. Also you'll want to use graduating bits. Don't start with 1/2 bit work up to it. The shocks work great.

Wed Nov 18, 2009 2:20 pm

what shock lays out a link front end? i need one that lays out fully on the beam. im about to start on a pan and if i could get all the parts here first that would be a pluse so i dont have to order later and get down time. thanks in advane.

Tue Jan 12, 2010 6:25 pm

Cliff@BrownBags wrote: what shock lays out a link front end? i need one that lays out fully on the beam. im about to start on a pan and if i could get all the parts here first that would be a pluse so i dont have to order later and get down time. thanks in advane.

The ma756 will lay out a beam IF it is adjustable AND you have drop spindles.

Tue Jan 12, 2010 8:11 pm

cliff, your best bet is to mock up your front end, then go on monroe's website and look at ALL the shocks. pick the one you need.

i have a ball joint car (69) and use the ma 750's. it will lay beam. these same shocks on my buddies 68 bug will NOT. same tire size, same adjusters, and same drop spindles. he is running the ma 756's now (which are shorter) and his will lay beam now.

Wed Jan 13, 2010 4:09 pm

thanks , im in mock up right now. i bought the taller ones i think...i have to check, but they probably will leave me about .5" off. soo well see what happens lol. but its weird because with lowered balljoints, and 125s, and drop spindles it seems like its going to still be an inch off. i might have to radious the balljoints a hair. not sure yet

Mon Jan 18, 2010 1:29 pm

dubtype1 wrote: I just got mine back from the machine shop.........
3/8" bung and a 3/8" NPT x 1/2" PTC elbow fitting...........

And a fresh coat of Rustoleum Black. :D

I hate to ask this,but what is the monroe part number of these air shocks again?! Thanks,Martin

Mon Jan 18, 2010 1:52 pm

DONT trust those pushlock fittings. they look like the crappy homedepot/lowes kind. they will break and blow out. buy some nice brass ones. please just trust me on this. i use those shitty white ones on mock up stuff only

Sun Jan 31, 2010 6:39 pm

Is everybody just using the 1/8th inch air or has anybody adapted up to 1/4 inch line. I'm having trouble finding a way to adapt up to it. I don't have to but I just want to run the same size line front and rear.

Sat Feb 27, 2010 9:42 pm

Monroe all the way around. Front-back control. 1/4" airlines. Separate compressor front and back. Still have torsions and gets about 4" of lift front and rear and rides great.

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Sun Feb 28, 2010 1:54 pm

Nice!! ^^^^^^^^

=D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D>

Tue Mar 02, 2010 12:01 pm

I to have a 69 Ghia and was wondering about something...

I keep reading about not doing rear air shocks. Why have I not seen anyone talking about using a spring plate conversion kit and air shocks. This will eliminate the rear torsion all together and use only the rear shock and bladder...I have never used one of these but seems like it would work well.

Anyone?

http://rides.webshots.com/album/573415113KrKbfG?start=72

http://www.youtube.com/user/CONCEPTZRQT#p/u/5/uaZ9RvZjXg8

Tue Mar 02, 2010 12:51 pm

conceptzrqt wrote:
Anyone?

simple, by themselves the airshocks are not strong enough...

Tue Mar 02, 2010 2:29 pm

actually the air shocks are strong enough. the problem is that the bladder on the typical air shock (monroe max air for example) is quite small. since the rear of the car weighs so much, you have to run alot more psi in the bladder to keep the ride height up. with the amount of pressure in the bladder the ride becomes VERY stiff.

on the front of my car i run 80-90 psi in the shocks. it rides great. we tried the air shocks on the rear of a friends car, and it took almost 130psi to start lifting and had to run 145psi to keep the rear end from dragging everywhere. at that pressure it was fine for 10 minutes, but after about 30 minutes you would piss blood for the rest of the day!! lol

Tue Mar 02, 2010 5:27 pm

Well, that takes care of that.
Thanks guys.
I think I will read over this some more and move forward.
I have a set of dropped disc spindles ready to go. I will look into a narrow beam and see what set of Monroes to put on the front. I have a couple sets of bags sitting around that I will use on the back once I convert to the plate kit. I like the idea of going with the hiem joints with the IRS rear and let the bags and shocks do their thing.

Again,
Thanks

Tue Mar 02, 2010 5:57 pm

hoghead5150 wrote: actually the air shocks are strong enough. the problem is that the bladder on the typical air shock (monroe max air for example) is quite small. since the rear of the car weighs so much, you have to run alot more psi in the bladder to keep the ride height up. with the amount of pressure in the bladder the ride becomes VERY stiff.

on the front of my car i run 80-90 psi in the shocks. it rides great. we tried the air shocks on the rear of a friends car, and it took almost 130psi to start lifting and had to run 145psi to keep the rear end from dragging everywhere. at that pressure it was fine for 10 minutes, but after about 30 minutes you would piss blood for the rest of the day!! lol

sounds like you are saying that they are not strong enough to work properly with the weight of the rear of the car... :wink:

Wed Mar 03, 2010 6:23 am

i just wish i knew if they were strong enough.
but seriously, was that with or without the torsion bars?
i have a set of KYB's that do the teeth rattle thing now so if not the air then what would you suggest for a more comfortable ride? say with or without lowering just to cover all the bases.

Wed Mar 03, 2010 8:08 pm

Which KYBs? Gray or white? The white gas adjust are much firmer than the GRs.

Wed Mar 03, 2010 8:39 pm

these were the grey. you mean there is something more firm?
this was at stock ride height. since i have apart i thought i'd drop it a bit.
i'll just look at other alternatives.

Thu Mar 04, 2010 5:25 am

Vancy - you are having ride issues with gray KYBs? What kind of tire pressure are you running? I have them on the front of the buggy and all around on the 65 bug. Ride is what I would call firm but nothing close to harsh or rough. I typically have people mention how smooth it rides for a bug. I am running stock sized radials with VW suggested pressure. When I had my tires put on, they had them aired up tp 35 and it was like an ox cart.