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Wed Aug 13, 2008 1:04 pm

hello all! I am trying to figure out the sweet spot for timing on my 1500sp.

Just put in a new 009(non Bosh) w/ Compufire, I also Rebuilt the H30/31 Solex carb. Changed the oil and adj. the valves. Plugs and wires have about 5k on them.

I do not have an advancing timing light to set the proper adv. curve, so I printed out a picture of a pulley with timing marks on it and filed my own "ball park" timing mark around 30degrees.

I have adj the timing all over the place to get idle correct(850-900RPM) and proper adv. at high RPM's. But I feel like I might be missing something.

When Idling the timing sits around 12 degrees adv. is that normal?

Also, my bug is a little hesitant to accelerate, I know this is kind of common w/ 009. Any hints to help this?

I also have to adj. the big screw on the carb almost all the way in to get the idle right. Is this normal?

Also I am getting 25-28mpg mostly hwy, can this be better?

Any help would be appreciated...

Wed Aug 13, 2008 5:54 pm

We do not adjust the timing to get the idle speed correct. It is a bad habit that you do not want to get into...

Correct timing this way.... http://www.type2.com/library/electrip/bosch009.htm

Idle speed this way http://www.vw-resource.com/carb.html

Wed Aug 13, 2008 8:28 pm

I've used a bunch of German and Brazilian 009's and usually static time them at 7.5 BTDC. This almosts always gets it close to the correct running timing or a little short...30-32 degrees total advance. I just use a cheap light, wired to the coil :)

Thu Aug 14, 2008 3:23 am

The few 009s that I timed usually ended up at 8-10* BTDC at idle.

Thu Aug 14, 2008 4:22 am

neil68 wrote: I've used a bunch of German and Brazilian 009's and usually static time them at 7.5 BTDC. This almosts always gets it close to the correct running timing or a little short...30-32 degrees total advance. I just use a cheap light, wired to the coil :)
I've seen a number of OO9s that only advanced 10-12 degrees, so if you stat time them at 7.5 you only have a total of 17.5-19.5 degrees. You need a timing light to know if your OO9 is working correctly.

It's like building a engine without a torque wrench. And estimating 18ft-lbs on the head studs with a box wrench.

Thu Aug 14, 2008 6:12 am

Glenn wrote: neil68 wrote: I've used a bunch of German and Brazilian 009's and usually static time them at 7.5 BTDC. This almosts always gets it close to the correct running timing or a little short...30-32 degrees total advance. I just use a cheap light, wired to the coil :)
I've seen a number of OO9s that only advanced 10-12 degrees, so if you stat time them at 7.5 you only have a total of 17.5-19.5 degrees. You need a timing light to know if your OO9 is working correctly.

It's like building a engine without a torque wrench. And estimating 18ft-lbs on the head studs with a box wrench.

HEY! I pride myself on being able to get within at least 10 ft/lbs when I do it that way! 8)

I just made a wrench that is 1.2 inches long and I stand on it at the end. I weigh 180 lbs. :idea:

Seriously, guys, if you want cheap, and you want less than ideal timing, get a 009. The degree wheel printout is handy. You can do the math too, to get what you need. Yes, you can.. I promise it's not that hard. Y'all had geometry didn't you?

Thu Aug 14, 2008 8:37 am

mharney wrote: Glenn wrote: neil68 wrote: I've used a bunch of German and Brazilian 009's and usually static time them at 7.5 BTDC. This almosts always gets it close to the correct running timing or a little short...30-32 degrees total advance. I just use a cheap light, wired to the coil :)
I've seen a number of OO9s that only advanced 10-12 degrees, so if you stat time them at 7.5 you only have a total of 17.5-19.5 degrees. You need a timing light to know if your OO9 is working correctly.

It's like building a engine without a torque wrench. And estimating 18ft-lbs on the head studs with a box wrench.

HEY! I pride myself on being able to get within at least 10 ft/lbs when I do it that way! 8)

I just made a wrench that is 1.2 inches long and I stand on it at the end. I weigh 180 lbs. :idea:

Seriously, guys, if you want cheap, and you want less than ideal timing, get a 009. The degree wheel printout is handy. You can do the math too, to get what you need. Yes, you can.. I promise it's not that hard. Y'all had geometry didn't you?

I was responding to the original poster who said he did not have an advance timing light and was certainly not recommending cheaping out on tuning equipment. I use the static 7.5 timing prior to firing up the engine, because this "almost always" gets it close, since every 009 I've used has around 20-21 degrees advance. I totally agree that once the engine is fired and warmed up, then out comes the strobe gun to set the total advance correctly...

Thu Aug 14, 2008 9:14 am

You really don't need a timing light with the centrifical advance feature (although it is nice to have). You just have to know where that 28-32º of max advance is located on the pulley.