TheSamba.com :: View topic

Wed Aug 13, 2008 8:21 pm

I removed my clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel. The Muir manual said to pry the inner lip of the seal with a large screw driver. I tried and tried for about 15-20 minutes using a screwdriver and various fulcrums with little to no progress. Is this normal? Anyone have any tips for removing a flywheel seal from the case? . Is there is a trick to this?

Wed Aug 13, 2008 8:32 pm

Try putting a couple flat bars across the case (to prevent damage) and then use two larger pry bars on the seal. By using two points of pressure, you should be able to get the seal moving. It looks like someone may have put some sealant on the perimeter of the seal, so that could require "breaking" the glue sealing.

Keep the pry bars from getting too close to the outside of the seal or you could scratch the case bore.

Good luck!

Wed Aug 13, 2008 8:33 pm

Wow.. that's crazy.

Nope.. just a broad bladed screwdriver should work. You could try the claw side of a hammer, braced against the crank dowel area with something between to protect the crank. I'd think that with that leverage and two prongs of the claw, you'd get it out. Shouldn't take that much.

Wed Aug 13, 2008 8:42 pm

Ok, I will give it another try tomorrow morning. One other thing i noticed was there was no metal or paper gasket between the crank and flywheel.. should there be one on all models?

Wed Aug 13, 2008 8:44 pm

Only on models that do not have an o-ring in the flywheel.

Wed Aug 13, 2008 8:46 pm

Ok the flywheel has an o-ring in it. Thanks for the info.

Wed Aug 13, 2008 10:35 pm

That engine come from an autostick equipped car? I ask because I seem to remember that the cam seal goes in backwards on AS Beetles....

Wed Aug 13, 2008 10:59 pm

Could have been from an autostick. Id have to check the case no. ? The PO had put the motor into my oval. When i started having clutch problems about a year after i first bought the car i realised it had a pressure plate w/o a collar on it which was not right for the type of trans/throw out bearing in the car.... So i put a new pressure plate with collar on the flywheel...

Thu Aug 14, 2008 2:33 pm

Got the seal out. Found a pry bar and used a stout screwdriver as the fulcrum. Needed more leverage i guess. Thanks

Sat Aug 16, 2008 8:37 am

Now i am ready to reinstall the seal, but if anyone can answer a few questions i'd appreciate it. First, should the seal be flush with case or should it be bottomed out in the case or inset? there was maybe an 1/8th gap from the seal to the case where it could be drove in further. Does it depend on the type of case i have? i searched but couldnt find a definative answer. Also, my old seal is too mangled from prying it out to use to drive the new seal into the case so i figure a wood block or two hammer approach would be necessary? Thanks for any help in advance.

Sat Aug 16, 2008 8:45 am

I set in in just a bit so that the flywheel can't catch it. Many set them bottomed out with no issue. I use a purpose built tool, but recall using a large socket to do it before I bought the tool. That was too many years ago to remember the size.

Sat Aug 16, 2008 8:47 am

Is your tool similar to this?

Sat Aug 16, 2008 9:38 am

OvalWindowBucket wrote: Is your tool similar to this?

Yes.

Sat Aug 16, 2008 9:54 am

Thanks TWD.

Im thinking I should probably check the endplay before I install a new seal? I dont have a dial indicator but wondering if anyone has used this type of endplay measuring tool before:

Sat Aug 16, 2008 10:37 am

I use it.. It works just fine if you use it right... Install it.. back the screw for clearance. With a rubber mallet, rap the nose of the crank (pulley side) lightly while keeping pressure on it to make sure it is BACK all the way it goes. Then screw the screw in until it just touches the flywheel. I mean JUST. Then rap the flywheel side at the gland nut, and hold it forward while you do it. Once you are satisfied it is solidly forward, put a feeler gauge in there and check the space between the screw and the flywheel surface.

You can also use it to check runout, though for both counts a dial indicator is best.

Sat Aug 16, 2008 2:18 pm

Im going to try and get my hands on one of those. Bugformance wants $23 for the measuring tool while CB wants $13. One of my friends might have one so Ill seek one out that way first. If not probably buy the tools from CB. Thanks