TheSamba.com :: View topic - 1960 turn signal switch replacement questions

Thu Aug 14, 2008 6:51 am

I will be replacing the turn signal switch in my '60 Beetle with a 6 wire unit from BFY. Through previous posts I think I have the wiring figured but the connectors on the replacement are the spade type and the originals are the old straight wire ends. Can anyone recommend the best way to connect? Should I just cut off the spade on the new unit and use a different connector (what kind) to slide into the little connection box at the back of the dash? Also, I admit I am a little timid about removing my steering wheel; don't want to mess up my horn or break the wheel. Can anyone offer a step by step on how to do this and what tools to use? I've read the Haynes manual but the voice of experience would be great.

Thanks

Thu Aug 14, 2008 9:36 am

mdwman,
What I would do if yours is still the screw type connectors is strip back the sheathing and add a little solder and use the set screw like the original. 60 should have the screw type connectors. Be wary off these replacement switches from what I hear the track record is not good.
60ragtop

Thu Aug 14, 2008 7:08 pm

Remove the spades and sodder the ends before inserting them into the fuse block. No modern ends are necessary.

No need to remove the steering wheely! There are two screws on the right side of the switch housing that surrounds the collumn. There are two smaller screws on the left side at the base of the switch shaft that will free the actual switch from the housing. Loosen the ones on the right first. don't forget to disconnect your battery :shock:

.

Fri Aug 15, 2008 5:05 am

tasb, we must be talking about different switches. This is the one I purchased:

http://www.bfyobsoleteparts.com/1960-61-beetle-turn-signal-switch-pr-824.html

I only see one screw on the housing and no way for it to seperate to attach onto the steering column without removing the wheel.

Fri Aug 15, 2008 7:05 am

Yes, 1960 was the first year for that style of turn signal switch and the steering wheel does have to be removed. Take off the horn button, (pop it off with a small screwdriver) and you don't have to remove the horn ring or disconnect a horn wire on a 1960. A 27mm socket, 6 inch extension and ratchet should be all you need, just remove the nut/washer and lift up! You might have to rock it a little but it's not pressed on tightly. If you think you'll forget the steering wheel alignment, make a mark on it and the column as you lift the wheel up with a Sharpie.

-Andy

Fri Aug 15, 2008 1:01 pm

Thanks glutamodo. So, no horn wires or springs? My horn is somewhat positional (pressure on the ring in one place works, maybe not on the other side) so I didn't want to take a chance on disabling it altogether.

Fri Aug 15, 2008 1:13 pm

I'm assuming you have the original 1960-61 style steering column and horn ring setup. If so, then no, there are no wires. There are three spring-loaded pins under the horn ring that do two things. They put the springiness in the horn ring/button, of course, plus once depressed these connect the horn circuit. It's not really that great of a design, which is why it only lasted 2 years. From 1962 to 1971 I think, they had a different design, where there was a dedicated wire coming up the column that attached to the horn ring which would make contact when depressed via a brass contact ring attached under the ring to a small brass ring cast into the steering wheel. If you have that setup, usually all you have to do is disconnect that wire, fold it over and push it into the steering column just enough to get it out of the way, then you can put the socket in there to loosen the steering wheel nut.

Picture of the spring-loaded pins used in 60/61 under the horn ring:

And this is the 62-71 setup:

Fri Aug 15, 2008 8:53 pm

:oops: boy I really messed that one up huh... I was working on the turn signal switch for my 1965 bus yesterday right before I posted my reply and look what happens :oops:

if you still trust my advice...

Suggest proper adjustment of horn ring is done by alternately and evenly tightening the screws that hold the ring to the wheel. The idea is to leave some space so there is only contact when you press gently on the ring. You don't want to crank the screws down tight. The springs are there to even the load too.

Fri Aug 15, 2008 8:57 pm

LOL - I have to agree with that to some extent, but only if it's a 1962/later steering wheel. The 60/61 type you should tighten the screws til they are snug, those springloaded pins should not need any extra room to keep them from working.

Tue Aug 19, 2008 11:35 pm

Hey mdwman, Did you ever get the turn signal switch wired up. I got the same one. And when I took it out of the box the wires are totally different colors from factory. So I haven't even temped to hook mine up yet.. If any one has let me know.

Wed Aug 20, 2008 5:14 am

sixseven1,

I will be installing the switch this weekend and found this post,

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=309354&highlight=signal+switch

that seems to explain the wiring. I have already removed the spade ends from the new switch, added a little solder, and will use the original screw connectors.

Good luck.

Sat Aug 23, 2008 10:12 pm

I installed mine fri. and the turn signals work fine, But now my brake lights dont work. Its got me confused. I'm about to dig out the 63' model taillights and throw that six wire off a bridge somewhere. :x :x :x

Sun Aug 24, 2008 5:46 am

Got mine installed yesterday with wiring in the linked post and all seems to be working correctly.

What year is your Beetle? As I understand it, the tail lights on my '60 are single filament so the turn signal and stop lights do not work at the same time. When I first got the switch in I noticed if the lever was not in the neutral position the stop lights would not illuminate. When driving with normal use of the turn signal, my switch auto cancels back to neutral allowing the brake lights to work. If you fiddle with the turn signal lever do your brake lights work?

Sun Aug 24, 2008 10:42 pm

Mines also a 1960, But the brake lights don"t work at all. I'll get off these 12 hr midnights in a few days. So then I'll fool with it some more. I followed the above post also, And they work flawless, But no brake lights at all.My brake lights worked prior to the new switch install. So next is a brake light switch I guess.. I'll let ya know how it goes.

Mon Aug 25, 2008 2:10 am

For testing purposes, you can alway just simulate a brake light switch by running +6V (or +12V) directly to the "54st" wire going into the turn signals switch. You can do that by jumpering the wires there at the brake light switch or where the two wires leading two the switch junction meet a T2 junction heading down the switch. ( Or by running it over the the black w/violet strip wire leading into the switch itself.)