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Thu Aug 14, 2008 10:03 am

I’m down to the last few but very important tasks before trying to start my decade-sitting, lot-find ’71 fastback. I have pulled, cleaned, and sealed the gas tank. I have replaced the internal screen in the tank (thanks Russ). I have replaced all the fuel lines. I replaced the coil. Changed the oil. Pulled the plugs. Marvel’s Mystery Oil in the cylinders. Replaced the generator belt. Replaced the tattered air bellows.

So I am down to setting the timing, adjusting the valves and cleaning out the progressive carburetor. I can clean the carb any time, but order matters for the other two, right?
Question 1: I have to set the distributor timing before I can adjust the valves, correct?

I am planning on using the test light method shown in the Bug Me Video, but that requires me having a battery in and turning the key. To be honest, that step scares the crap out of me. There’s no gas in the car, but it’s been sitting for a LONG time. The idea of electricity coursing through the car is frightening to me.

Question 2: Is there anything I should do before putting a battery in the thing and turning the key?

I finally have the time (two hours every morning for ten days) to work on it, and I think I have it close to trying. Just want to make sure I’m not missing anything or making obvious mistakes.

Thu Aug 14, 2008 10:15 am

Gas can be set off with a spark, but I've never seen it happen. You just about have to have heat or flame. My mechanic cleans his parts with gas while smoking a cigarrette! 8)

Thu Aug 14, 2008 10:18 am

Mike Fisher wrote: Gas can be set off with a spark, but I've never seen it happen. You just about have to have heat or flame. My mechanic cleans his parts with gas while smoking a cigarrette! 8) :roll: There's a future Darwin Award winner.

Thu Aug 14, 2008 10:25 am

in a perfect situation, you can light a match, and put it out with gasoline, my auto shop teacher proved this in my highschool class. It's the vapors that are explosive. I believe mythbusters also proved this. I still wouldnt mess with it lol

you can do either the valves or the distributor in any order, when you do the valves you are using the timing marks on the pully/fan

Thu Aug 14, 2008 10:47 am

RodneyW wrote: So I am down to setting the timing, adjusting the valves and cleaning out the progressive carburetor. I can clean the carb any time, but order matters for the other two, right?
Question 1: I have to set the distributor timing before I can adjust the valves, correct?
Valve lash does not affect timing. Likewise, timing does not affect valve lash.

However, valves should be done with the engine cold. So do the valves first.

Max

Thu Aug 14, 2008 10:56 am

RodneyW wrote: I’m down to the last few but very important tasks before trying to start my decade-sitting, lot-find ’71 fastback. I have pulled, cleaned, and sealed the gas tank.
I hope the "sealing" did not actually plug the tank. See Below.

So I am down to setting the timing, adjusting the valves and cleaning out the progressive carburetor. I can clean the carb any time, but order matters for the other two, right?
Question 1: I have to set the distributor timing before I can adjust the valves, correct?

Doesnt really make any difference.

I am planning on using the test light method shown in the Bug Me Video, but that requires me having a battery in and turning the key. To be honest, that step scares the crap out of me. There’s no gas in the car, but it’s been sitting for a LONG time. The idea of electricity coursing through the car is frightening to me.

It will not hurt anything

Question 2: Is there anything I should do before putting a battery in the thing and turning the key?

Make sure the cables are clean, and that you connect the cable the right way.

I finally have the time (two hours every morning for ten days) to work on it, and I think I have it close to trying. Just want to make sure I’m not missing anything or making obvious mistakes.

Thu Aug 14, 2008 11:38 am

I allway like to adjust the vavles first.
I remove the spark plugs, then add a few drops of light oil(marvel, atf)
this will prelube the cyls. and make it easy to turn over the engine.

set to # 1 tdc (top dead center) adjust

after your done hook up the bat. pull off the "green wire" off the coil

make sure your in "N" crank over 5 to 10 rpm pull key out of ign.

install spark plugs (gap .028")

set your point gap install 'Green wire" set engine to "tdc"
make sure the rotor points to notch #1 wire

start up let run till warm set timming/ adjust carb

Thu Aug 14, 2008 11:55 am

Thanks Russ re: the gas tank question. You used the same diagram on an earlier post of mine that helped me understand how the heck it was supposed to work. I very carefully followed your advice.

Also, I have searched the forum enough to know there are two different types of four-notch fan pulleys. For some the left most notch is TDC; for some TDC is the second notch from the left.