TheSamba.com :: View topic

Fri Aug 15, 2008 6:22 am

Hi all,

I'm doing some welding this weekend, correction, my friend is doing some welding this weekend while I fetch beer and I was wondering if anyone could offer up some suggestions on protection from rust.

I'm basically looking at those common rust areas like in the wheel well or battery side of the engine compartment. I know rust never sleeps but I don't want to have to revisit this issue in another 5 years and hopefully, if I keep an eye on things, I won't have to. Any help would be much appreciated.

Cheers.

Scott

Fri Aug 15, 2008 6:31 am

I think a coat of POR-15 (Or similar product) would do the trick.

Fri Aug 15, 2008 6:39 am

thewalrus wrote: I think a coat of POR-15 (Or similar product) would do the trick.

Yes. Do the whole bus underneath.

Fri Aug 15, 2008 7:13 am

thewalrus wrote: I think a coat of POR-15 (Or similar product) would do the trick.

Yup. Definately getting the black goo out and hitting the bus with that. How about inside the bus though. Those hard to reach spots like inside the door frames and under the seats. Do you just get in there and spray as best you can?

Fri Aug 15, 2008 7:21 am

wanderglobe wrote: Yup. Definately getting the black goo out and hitting the bus with that. How about inside the bus though. Those hard to reach spots like inside the door frames and under the seats. Do you just get in there and spray as best you can?
I suppose. Hit what rusted inside with the same stuff you hit the rust outside with!!

Fri Aug 15, 2008 7:27 am

thewalrus wrote: wanderglobe wrote: Yup. Definately getting the black goo out and hitting the bus with that. How about inside the bus though. Those hard to reach spots like inside the door frames and under the seats. Do you just get in there and spray as best you can?
I suppose. Hit what rusted inside with the same stuff you hit the rust outside with!!

The stuff that's going outside is more tar like from what I understand. When it heats up it can sometimes give off an odour. Sorry, should have mentioned that.

Fri Aug 15, 2008 7:31 am

http://www.masterseriesct.com

Great stuff ...... use inside and out.... Cheaper price than Por-15.... 8)

Fri Aug 15, 2008 9:47 am

I've been using these guys http://www.rustcheck.com/ "inner panel protectant" and "undercarriage protectant", goes on with a shutz gun.
If you get yourself a 2-3' section of 3/8" nylon/plastic water pipe (the semi rigid stuff) and attach it to the nozzle of the gun with a bit of fuel line you can get it into all the inner recesses.
The inner protectant is kinda runny and drools out for months after so don't over do it, if you get a bit in there it creeps and spreads by itself, a little drop is 3" around the next day.
The undercarriage stuff is thick and greasy, makes the bus oily/dirty when you work on it but keeps it from rusting.

Whatever you choose don't do anything until it's painted, you may want to pre drill some holes for access too although VW did put holes there already.
Canadian tire sells it, I usually redo it every 2-3 years, $50-60 and a dribbly bus for a few weeks is way easier to handle than what you're doing now.

Mon Aug 25, 2008 6:21 am

POR 15 vs rust encapsulator

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=852&...amp;KICKER

Mon Aug 25, 2008 9:43 pm

Very little moisture here so no real experience with your needs. However get it and keep it as clean as you can. Dirt and junk will hold moisture. Check all the existing undercoating for any moisture retaining loose areas. Pay attention to joints and seams. Dig out any loose original seam sealer. And recover with quality auto seam sealer.

Keep your travel pictures comming! :D

Thu Aug 28, 2008 6:25 am

Here's a newly published book, specifically dealing with the restoration of 1968~79 VW Type 2s:

Mark Paxton, How to Restore VW Bus (i.e. 1968~79 VW Type 2), Veloce Press, ISBN 978-1-845840-93-8.

priced at £29•99.

Tel. +44 (0) 1305 268 864

http://www.veloce.co.uk

Thu Aug 28, 2008 6:37 am

NASkeet wrote: Here's a newly published book, specifically dealing with the restoration of 1968~79 VW Type 2s:

Mark Paxton, How to Restore VW Bus (i.e. 1968~79 VW Type 2), Veloce Press, ISBN 978-1-845840-93-8.

priced at £29•99.

Tel. +44 (0) 1305 268 864

http://www.veloce.co.uk

Cheers Nigel. Might be worth the investment. Thanks a lot.

Thu Aug 28, 2008 10:07 am

busdaddy wrote: I've been using these guys http://www.rustcheck.com/ "inner panel protectant" and "undercarriage protectant"

Rustcheck works. I do my '79 panel van with it every year, anywhere I can get at I spray it - inside the rockers, frame, jack points, etc. It only gets driven in the winter (road salt, and lots of it) and its just as solid as when I first got it eight years ago.

Don't use any of that rubberized undercoating crap. It will eventually crack and trap moisture which will cause rust. Then you have to deal with getting it off to do the rust repairs... PITA!

POR-15 it and then use Rustcheck and the bus will last a VERY long time.

Fri Aug 29, 2008 7:41 am

56ovalbug wrote: Rustcheck works. I do my '79 panel van with it every year, anywhere I can get at I spray it - inside the rockers, frame, jack points, etc. It only gets driven in the winter (road salt, and lots of it) and its just as solid as when I first got it eight years ago.

Heck that's some serious abuse :lol: I checked out their site and they actually have them at shops where they do it for you? Bit pricey though, I checked out the price of a minivan and it was about $198 or so. You say you could do it yourself? Could you explain how? Thanks!

Fri Aug 29, 2008 9:00 am

See my post near the top of the page.

Fri Aug 29, 2008 9:20 am

busdaddy wrote: See my post near the top of the page.
Ah ic...thanks busdaddy. So now I need to get an air compressor/shutz gun thing. Oh well...I really needed an excuse and this is as good as any :lol:

So for the undercarriage, do you drive it up ramps and crawl underneath and shoot this stuff just like...everywhere? Ah...and I remember now what you said that little hole in the back (behind the bumper) is for :D that's how we'll get the frame rails I guess. Where do you shoot the inner protectant? Front doors I get...just remove the door panels and shoot it all along the bottom, but where else do you recommend? I would probably remove the kick panels and shoot those too. I read somewhere that you said that there were some holes to drain the front as well? I'd like to keep those holes open, but can't seem to even find them! Any tips? The bus lives in the garage, so I guess I'll be spreading newspaper everywhere to catch the drips :lol:

Fri Aug 29, 2008 9:59 am

You want to get the stuff anywhere you cannot see both sides of the panels, look at some rusty busses for clues on where to focus your efforts.

There's oblong and round plugs at the front bottom corners of the front fenders (inner panels) that allow you to get almost all the way up the doglegs and under the step area.
More plugs for the back of the front bumper/lower nose.
Access A pillar (front door post) through wire hole at top and holes near door hinges.
Usually a plug at the top rear corner of the dogleg or at the bottom for the back of the fender.
Plugs in the fronts of the rockers (in wheelwell) to get back to the C pillar (3 cavities in right rocker).
Oblong plug in passenger compartment on B pillar near bottom to shoot up and down.
Plugs at rear of rockers in rear wheel wells to get rockers from C pillar back.
Plugs in inner rear fender spaced along length of wheel well lip just above it.
Oblong plugs below rear window, beside rear seat to access cavity above rear fender.
Oblong holes at intersection of frame and rear apron to access apron.
Multiple holes in frame rails to access all areas, takes some trying but you can access all areas.
Various holes in body parts inside, best if interior panels are out.
Various holes in jack points and outriggers.
All doors and hatches too.

If there's a hole you an get the tube into shoot it, no rules here, this is one time when more is better.
If you can get the bus up on ramps or tall jack stands even better, it's also good to blow, vacuum or pressure wash all the cavities out first (jack points and outriggers especially), years of dust and dirt accumulated blocks drains and holds moisture.
You may want to hold off on the undercarriage until you give the inner panel stuff some time to soak in and ooze out of the seams, any dry spots should get more attention.
Wear clothes you dislike and put down LOTS of paper, wear goggles and gloves too. The stuff will drip out for weeks after, it also has a fairly strong, sweetish smell, hope your garage is sealed off from the house.

Fri Aug 29, 2008 10:12 am

busdaddy wrote: You want to get the stuff anywhere you cannot see both sides of the panels, look at some rusty busses for clues on where to focus your efforts.

There's oblong and round plugs at the front bottom corners of the front fenders (inner panels) that allow you to get almost all the way up the doglegs and under the step area.
More plugs for the back of the front bumper/lower nose.
Access A pillar (front door post) through wire hole at top and holes near door hinges.
Usually a plug at the top rear corner of the dogleg or at the bottom for the back of the fender.
Plugs in the fronts of the rockers (in wheelwell) to get back to the C pillar (3 cavities in right rocker).
Oblong plug in passenger compartment on B pillar near bottom to shoot up and down.
Plugs at rear of rockers in rear wheel wells to get rockers from C pillar back.
Plugs in inner rear fender spaced along length of wheel well lip just above it.
Oblong plugs below rear window, beside rear seat to access cavity above rear fender.
Oblong holes at intersection of frame and rear apron to access apron.
Multiple holes in frame rails to access all areas, takes some trying but you can access all areas.
Various holes in body parts inside, best if interior panels are out.
Various holes in jack points and outriggers.
All doors and hatches too.

If there's a hole you an get the tube into shoot it, no rules here, this is one time when more is better.
If you can get the bus up on ramps or tall jack stands even better, it's also good to blow, vacuum or pressure wash all the cavities out first (jack points and outriggers especially), years of dust and dirt accumulated blocks drains and holds moisture.
You may want to hold off on the undercarriage until you give the inner panel stuff some time to soak in and ooze out of the seams, any dry spots should get more attention.
Wear clothes you dislike and put down LOTS of paper, wear goggles and gloves too. The stuff will drip out for weeks after, it also has a fairly strong, sweetish smell, hope your garage is sealed off from the house.

Thanks Busdaddy! You're worth your weight in gold I tell ya! :D

I will go through all these holes diligently...as your sig says, rust doesn't sleep! 2 of my jackpoints are gone (dunno what outriggers are) and one the non-slider side, the entire bottom panel has been replaced with new sheet metal...there are no holes underneath, so I guess I'll drill some.

For the interior, I just put in my insulation and wood panels. No biggie, as I haven't put in the rest of the furniture, so I'll just remove what I can and spray the heck out of it!

All right! Looking for a good used air compressor now!! I think I'll take pixes of this and post it.

Wed Sep 17, 2008 6:26 am

NASkeet wrote: Here's a newly published book, specifically dealing with the restoration of 1968~79 VW Type 2s:

Mark Paxton, How to Restore VW Bus (i.e. 1968~79 VW Type 2), Veloce Press, ISBN 978-1-845840-93-8.

priced at £29•99.

Tel. +44 (0) 1305 268 864

http://www.veloce.co.uk

Here's some further information which you might find useful:

Dr. Hugh McArthur, Motor Vehicle Corrosion Prediction and Prevention on Vehicles (1950 - Present Day)", Expert Books, 1990, ISBN 0-9515787-0-7 (paperback) & 0-9515787-1-5 (hardback).

Your Guide to:

Restoring Classic Cars;
Buying Wisely Second Hand;
Motor Vehicle Corrosion Warranties and Their Problems;
Claiming Successfulyy on 6 Year Motor Vehicle Corrosion Warranty.

Chapter 1: The Corrosion Reaction as a Battery - Pages 1~11
Chapter 2: Corrosion Protection by Paints - Pages 12~16
Chapter 3: Body Build. Safety in Accidents - Pages 17~22
Chapter 4: Mass Production Painting Process - Pages 23~28
Chapter 5: Mechanics of Spray Ingress - Pages 29~51
Chapter 6: Wax Injection - Pages 52~55
Chapter 7: Precoated Steels - Pages 56~61
Chapter 8: Corrosion Warranties - Pages 62~69
Chapter 9: MOT and Metal Perforation - Pages 70~74
Chapter 10: Points to Remember When Buying a Vehicle - Pages 75~84

Expert Books, Woodhouse Eaves, LE12 8SD

Tel. +44 (0) 1509 890607

http://www.amazon.com/Corrosion-Prediction-Prevent...amp;sr=8-6

http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/0951578707/...dition=all

http://www.amazon.com/Corrosion-Prediction-Prevent...amp;sr=8-7

http://www.amazon.com/Corrosion-Prediction-Prevent...amp;sr=8-8

**************************************************************************************************************************

VW Bay Window Bus: Enthusiasts Restoration Guide By Mark Paxton

http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/ASIN/1845840933/westerncrete-21

The only book currently available that comprehensively deals with the realities of restoring a VW Bay Window Bus. With over 1500 mainly color photos, it clearly guides the reader through body and chassis repairs, paint work, interior re-trimming and most of the common mechanical problems. The skills, techniques and even the tools needed to complete these tasks are explained in jargon free language to ensure that even those enthusiasts with no previous restoration experience will feel confident in sorting out their Bus. An indispensable and unique guide for lovers of these fast appreciating classics. ISBN 1845840933

Wed Sep 17, 2008 6:51 am

Thanks Nigel, that looks like a pretty good book! :D