TheSamba.com :: View topic - What oil would be best in a 1600dp pushing a van?

Sat Aug 16, 2008 12:09 am

Wondering what oil you guys would /do use for this combo, im living in pacific north west so desert temps not really an issue.

Thanks

Sat Aug 16, 2008 12:23 am

I will try to kill this one dead here before the usual shit kicking starts. You can go here to read 12 pages on this topic http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=220755

Straight 30w will give your engine a long normal life, but there are many modern alternatives that have been invented since vw built these engines.

If its a stock 1600 then vw did not balance the internals enough for you to wory about oil in the grade scheme of things. :?

Sat Aug 16, 2008 6:41 am

Vw also did not use a filter and installed valve adjusting screws that gouge the tips of the valves (um - volkswagen engineers knew best?).
I personally am sold on synthetic. I've run Mobil1 and Redline. Not sure if anyone else does this one but I run the turbo diesel blend in my engine. Knowing that diesels typically have oil coolers (oil used for heat transfer) and hotter temps (think aircooled head and cylinders) to deal with. Plus higher zinc levels to make flat tappet cam happy and longer service interval.
I don't see how this combo can go wrong.
I also run Redline in the Trans and the wheel bearings are packed with their synthetic grease too!
My 2 cents,
Mike

Sat Aug 16, 2008 6:54 am

I tend to run straight 30 wt.
...because my guru John Muir said so and I am a lemming.
Also run a thermostat
and a oil bath air cleaner with the flap, and the pre-heat tube/ pipe set up (but put the flap into 'summer position' until it gets below 70)
And make sure your electric choke is functional. Muir was an idiot to say to disable the electric choke. Unless you have a manual choke, which is better.
It seems like desert temps in the PNW lately. But the rain will be back next week :P

Sat Aug 16, 2008 8:56 am

Runboy wrote: Vw also did not use a filter and installed valve adjusting screws that gouge the tips of the valves (um - volkswagen engineers knew best?).

not only did they know best, they knew the parameters of what they were being asked to design. seems as i recall price was a large part of the original goal. design is multifaceted. the differance between a ford taurus and a ferrari is only a differant set of design parameters not knowledge.

Sat Aug 16, 2008 9:22 am

True, True - I was referring to the mind set of so many vw enthusiast's that follow this "if vw did it it was right" attitude. Most things can be rethought and tweeked/modified with modern mechanical advancements.
I would like to see my engine run longer than vw intended.
Mike

Sat Aug 16, 2008 10:07 am

Runboy wrote: True, True - I was referring to the mind set of so many vw enthusiast's that follow this "if vw did it it was right" attitude. Most things can be rethought and tweeked/modified with modern mechanical advancements.
I would like to see my engine run longer than vw intended.
Mike yeah i over did and got a oil filter too :D

Sat Aug 16, 2008 10:08 am

i run 20w50 castrol gtx

to each his own. remember it likes it thick as that's how it cools.

Sat Aug 16, 2008 12:42 pm

What exactly does viscosity have to do with thermal absorption?
I have nice proper fitting wrist pins and connecting rod bushings, the 15-40 Redline Turbo Diesel I feel works well for this.
I was running 5-40 mobile1 Turbo Diesel but walmart seems to be having trouble keeping it in stock so I switched to Redline. If I have to pay higher auto parts store prices I might as well go all out. Plus Redline is a local company here in the Bay Area and hear nothing but good from people who know people that work there.
Oh, and ya, a K&N Filter Too! LOL
Mike

Sun Aug 17, 2008 10:18 am

I'm still using Shell Rottella T 15W40 diesel oil, 60K miles full Gene Berg 2007cc. My crank alone is worth more on ebay than a stock 1600cc rebuild.

Sun Aug 17, 2008 1:38 pm

5w30 synthetic in my buses.

Even when living in Las Vegas daily driving them in 150-120 degree heat I never had oil pressure issues.

I run as thin of oil as I can without going below 10psi per 1000rpm when fully warmed up. Seems to work just fine.

Might try the 0-30 next oil change. It works great in my drag car.

Sun Aug 17, 2008 4:24 pm

Clara wrote: I tend to run straight 30 wt.
...because my guru John Muir said so and I am a lemming.
:P

clara, that rocked. i laughed so hard. thanks for the laugh of the weekend.
lemmings rule. :)

Sun Aug 17, 2008 4:42 pm

I have been using Pennziol 20w50 in my 1641 67 Westy for the past 14 years. Drove the bus for 17 hours stopping only for gas, averaging 65 mph on the highway. Never had a problem with overhaeting. Motor still purrs like a kitten after 52,000 miles.

Sun Aug 17, 2008 9:23 pm

Oil weights are subjective to your environmental conditions.
As long as you have clean and adequate oil in your engine your good to go.

I've used castrol GTX 20W-50 for longer summer trips, 10w-30 the Rest of the year.

For my climate 10W-30 is probably best bet, or even a 5w in the winter.

I avoided synthetic as it tends to seep out of a not so new engine... with my new engine I'll run a semi/synthetic and see what happens.

Sun Aug 17, 2008 10:32 pm

Well, you got just about every answer covering the full range.

Wed Aug 20, 2008 1:09 am

thanks for the feedback, i decided to start with a 5/30 and go from there , if it works good i'lll just keep it, if not then i'll try some of the others mentioned.