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Sun Aug 17, 2008 2:34 am

Just finishing the build up of my new 1955cc motor to go into my 63 bus. I bought a cb chromoly gland nut, then realised it was a larger 38mm (1 1/2") nut. Bought a socket but my torque wrench only goes up to 150lb/ft. Did a search on here and decided I would try the long bar/bodyweight method. I did manage to use an impact gun that apparently has a max torque of 250lb. I then implemented the body weight method. I am not sure how much torque I ended up getting on the nut cause it was a bitch keeping the motor from tipping, even though I used a long bar to steady it.
My question is whether or not high torque is critical. I only intend to use the motor in the bus for normal street use, and I woud guess I got about 300lb/ft torque at least.
I was exerting so much pressure that the bar started to bend, but wasnt sure how far the gland nut tightened up.
I now have that niggling feeling as to whether I have not done something quite right. Oh yeah, I used thread lock on the gland nut.
Will I be ok as is?
Any advise would be good, thanks fellas,
Paul

Sun Aug 17, 2008 6:34 am

I'd say you tightened it up enough.

Sun Aug 17, 2008 6:55 am

A couple of tips for the future. First, either buy or make a steel tool that bolts to your flywheel to hold it in place while your torque the gland nut. The end the the tool can rest on the floor while you apply your weight to the torque wrench. This helps keep your engine from toppling over when you torque the gland nut.

You can make a torque multiplying extension. I used an old steel jack bottom that the end of my 3/4" breaker bar fit into. On the other end I welded a 1/2" drive socket to plug my torque wrench into. I measured the length and determined what the multiplier factor would be.

When you torque, you need to pull the wrench dead slow, otherwise you will be under torqued. Impact guns do not torque properly.

Which threadlocker did you use? They are NOT all created equal and are designed for many different applications. The flywheel can get very hot. That heat transfers into the gland nut threads where it can degrade the theradlocker strength.

I use Loctite #620 sleeve and bearing retainer. It's initial strength may not be quite as high as some of the other threadlocker formulations, however, it can operate at much higher temperatures and still maintain it's strength. All of the other threadlocker formulations lose their start losing their strength at lower temperatures, and before long their remaining strength is lower than the holding strength of Loctite #620.

Probably of more importance than the torque on your gland nut is the fit between the dowel pins and the crank and flywheel. Ideally, you should add 4 dowel pins and match dowel the crankshaft and flywheel together with an interference fit. The stock dowel pin holes in the crank and flywheel are loose and sloppy, and the dowel pins are too short. This allows the flywheel to rotate on the crankshaft and is what makes the flywheel susceptible to coming loose.

Hard to say if you have enough torque to hold the flywheel in place. Hard driving can cause the flywheel to come loose on a factory 1600 cc engine.

Scott Novak

Sun Aug 17, 2008 7:35 am

Pauly
Judging by what you wrote I'm sure you will be fine. But that was all great advice and the proper way to do it as scott suggested.

Don't take it off and redue it. Run it the way it is.

Impact wrench torque is ....... non existant. It's hitting and that increases the effect. Better for removing things than installing to spec for sure.

Sun Aug 17, 2008 8:11 am

Here is the set up I used before I saw, umm somebody, that made a different socket thing in 1 1/2" for the torque master tool.

Sun Aug 17, 2008 11:22 am

Thanks for the advise fellas, I'm not sure what brand the threadlock is, I couldnt find loctite so I bought a 10ml bottle from Scewfix and it is supposed to be for locking threads and fitting bearings.
I figure I may be ok with it as it is but theres that niggling feeling in the back of my mind that its not quite right, plus now I'm sceptical about the integrity of this threadlock.
The photo of the tool is very helpfull and it would be good to see the tool Scott fabricated.
I'm not going to tear down the strip in the bus, but you never know when youre sat at the lights and some youngster is sat next to you revving his little 1000cc with 6" bore tailpipe, I may just be tempted to make him look silly in front of his pals.
Thanks,
Paul

Sun Aug 17, 2008 11:31 am

Here is a couple of related items...

This could be made with steel bar and welded on "socket drives".
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3018/2670854597_5f25c33b5f_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3193/2670882587_daaa0c978b_o.jpg
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C26-000-145
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC-C10-7025
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC-C10-7036

Dale

Sun Aug 17, 2008 2:29 pm

Dale M. wrote: Here is a couple of related items...

This could be made with steel bar and welded on "socket drives".
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3018/2670854597_5f25c33b5f_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3193/2670882587_daaa0c978b_o.jpg
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C26-000-145
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC-C10-7025
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC-C10-7036

Dale

Thanks Dale,
typically these parts are not easily available at that sort of money over here in the.... "we're gonna pull your pants down and f_ _k you wholesale"....UK
Given me some ideas though about fabbing something up,
thanks,
Paul

Sun Aug 17, 2008 5:47 pm

I use Bugpack's new 36mm head chromoly gland nut and torque to 35lbs (35 x 9= 315lbs) using a torque multiplier (Torquemeister).