TheSamba.com :: View topic - How do I replace the front shift rod bushing?

Tue Aug 19, 2008 4:48 pm

hello everyone...i'm replacing the shift rod bushing in the front of my 67 westy..i have the gearshift coupler screw out but i can't get the shift rod coupler to budge..i put oil all over it and hopefully tomorrow it'll loosen, but which way do i want to bang the coupler off towards the front or towards the back.?? any suggestions on what to do..???

Tue Aug 19, 2008 5:34 pm

Read here http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=194031&highlight=coupler+removal

Tue Aug 19, 2008 5:35 pm

Whatever you do, don't bang on the coupler. The rear shaft and coupler are attatched to the hockey stick.
Spray PB blaster on it several different times and wait, then attach a large locking pliers to the rear shaft (not so tight that you squash it) to keep it from turning and, with locking pliers attached to the front shaft, try to twist it.

Tue Aug 19, 2008 8:25 pm

read this:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=303243&highlight=shifter

if you do a search on 'shifter' (using the search function in the bar above) select split bus forum and important select "Search Title Only"
unfortunately, this is a common sticky spot, so there is loads about it.

Tue Aug 19, 2008 10:11 pm

I removed mine two weeks ago. Heat helps. I cooked the rear coupler with a torch (engine in) to allow more rotation of the rear shift rod. Once the grub screw is out, it is just held on the front rod by rust. In order to remove the front rod with the rear in place, the front rod has got to slide over the rear rod a ways before the front of the front rod will have room to come off that little pin in front of the shifter. Then you will be able to remove it from the front.

Worst case, you can cut the coupler with a grinder. They're cheap. I didn't--Kroil, a torch and some gentle tapping REARWARD was all it took.

Tue Aug 19, 2008 10:23 pm

I had to dremmel the front coupler off (two peices) then used Kroil and HEAT to "un-rustweld" the front shift rod from the main shift rod. Make sure you replace all the bushings you can get to while you are at it. I took out my trans as well so was able to replace front and rear bushings (shuttlecock style). WW bushings have oversized locator bumps on them, so cut em down a bit with a blade and they will pop right into the locating hole. Grease the shift rod up good before re-installing. I used compressed air to blow out the gunk inside the rod tube, then pushed a greased up rag through it before reinstalling the rod. Don't forget to replace the front and rear boots, to keep the crap out of the tube.

Good luck, paitence, heat and Kroil will work, eventually.

Wed Aug 20, 2008 7:26 am

turbo_g wrote: WW bushings have oversized locator bumps on them, so cut em down a bit with a blade and they will pop right into the locating hole.

I replaced mine with WW Bushings just a couple weeks ago and they fit fine without cutting anything down. Just pushed them in place with my thumb.

Thu Aug 21, 2008 5:43 am

Andrew wrote: turbo_g wrote: WW bushings have oversized locator bumps on them, so cut em down a bit with a blade and they will pop right into the locating hole.

I replaced mine with WW Bushings just a couple weeks ago and they fit fine without cutting anything down. Just pushed them in place with my thumb.

do you do pushups using just your thumbs? replacement shift rod bushings do not even look like original ones and there is extra material/flashing on the locater stubs on inside diameter. or you could redrill hole size. :D

Thu Aug 21, 2008 10:16 am

bill may wrote: Andrew wrote: turbo_g wrote: WW bushings have oversized locator bumps on them, so cut em down a bit with a blade and they will pop right into the locating hole.

I replaced mine with WW Bushings just a couple weeks ago and they fit fine without cutting anything down. Just pushed them in place with my thumb.

do you do pushups using just your thumbs? replacement shift rod bushings do not even look like original ones and there is extra material/flashing on the locater stubs on inside diameter. or you could redrill hole size. :D

The replacement bushings looked just the same as the original (nicely worn out) bushings that I pulled out of my bus. I removed any extra flashing from the locater stub, but I didn't cut down the size of it at all, and it still went right in. I'm going to have to pull my transmission back out pretty quick. I'll slide the shift rod back out real quick just to make sure they went in all the way. :-s

Thu Aug 21, 2008 1:24 pm

I bought a couple of sets of rear shift rod bushings from W.W. some eight years ago and installed a set on my 1958 buses rod and, a few years later, a set on my 1963 buses rod, and I had no problem. I don't do thumb wrestling, either. :lol:

Thu Aug 21, 2008 1:35 pm

Mine had a ton of flash on them. Messy compared to the very nice original bushing that I removed. I trimmed them carefully with an exacto knife and they fit properly. If you don't do that, I can see how they would cause problems.

Thu Aug 21, 2008 2:49 pm

Major Woody wrote: Mine had a ton of flash on them. Messy compared to the very nice original bushing that I removed. I trimmed them carefully with an exacto knife and they fit properly. If you don't do that, I can see how they would cause problems.

Yes, this is what Bill May was talking about, people may have mistook my statement about cutting down the nub, it is the messy flashing (mold mark) that needs trimming then push a little and they fit.

Thu Aug 21, 2008 8:51 pm

"WW bushings have oversized locator bumps on them, so cut em down a bit with a blade..." I didn't misunderstand your statement, turbo; I thought that you made it pretty clear. The bump on my WW bushings pressed right into the hole. They were bought over eight years ago, though, so maybe they were better, then.