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Tue Aug 19, 2008 7:09 pm

I'm trying to get my car ready for inspection. I understand these things very state to state, but I still thought maybe I could get some help on things. I also have a couple random questions.

I was looking at the manual and I don't have the "brake indicator light". Just a hole. Anyone have any idea if I'm gonna have to get this? It seems like more of a luxury (for 68) than anything else. I'm getting my seatbelts and I know my lights are working now. I don't have any rust holes. Is there anything else I should check for before I take it?

Random questions - I have a hole next to the wipers. Lighter hole? It's not showing in the manual. Next, the mechanic gave me a spare tire but it won't fit in the normal space. I believe it's full size. Was the spare originally a doughnut and that's why it doesn't fit? Lastly, I found an old jack in my boxes of parts but it's nasty and rusty. Will any jack do or should I look for something in particular when I go to get one? I've never had to buy one before.

Sorry, for all the questions. It seemed to make more sense to put it in one post than make 5 or so. Thanks in advance.

Tue Aug 19, 2008 7:54 pm

Wow ...another Ghia owner in Maryland !
As for the tire. The spares were full size. Maybe you could try one
of other tires off the car. There are tabs in the trunk area that press against the tire to keep it from bouncing around. Any chance the one he gave you was overinflated?
Not sure if gthe tabs are adjustable but maybe they are too tight. I keep a small bottle jack in the car. They dont take up much space in the car.
Unless the jacking points where the stock issue jack fits are not in excellent condition I wouldnt use them. Usually they are in rough shape. I had a FORD fail MD. inspection because one of the wheels a slight bit too much "PLAY" in the bearings. The mechanic recommended repacking them to correct the play. Maybe he just wanted some beer money for the weekend but he claimed it fixed the problem.
Not sure about the holes. Doubt the brake indictator light is vital for inspection. Is the horn working? , wipers? Goodluck !

Tue Aug 19, 2008 8:13 pm

I don't think a brake indicator light would be a item to check.
Can't see it coming up in a inspection.

Tue Aug 19, 2008 9:36 pm

Thanks guys. Btw, 72Ghia, I'm pretty sure I just talked to you on myspace. Didn't know that was you until I saw your website. It's a small world after all, huh? I'm glad the horn was brought up. I totally forgot about that. I have it disconnected cause it's going all "Little Miss Sunshine" on me. The mechanic told me to try taking the horn off and clean it up and check the springs, connectors, etc.

I don't try putting the tire in place myself. The mechanic tried to shove it in and he said he didn't want to get it in there and me not be able to get it out. I was under the impression it didn't want to fit but maybe it's just naturally snug? Maybe those tabs are bent. I'll check it out tomorrow.

My wipers work but damn they're slow. Is this normal? Would a new motor be any faster?

Anyway, as far as the inspection goes, I would imagine that they go easier on older cars. They can't possibly hold them to the same standards as new cars.

Wed Aug 20, 2008 1:05 am

what size tires does your car have? what size is the spare? the spare tires are "full-sized", but depends on what you mean by "full-sized"... at least they aren't "donut" tires found on other cars. my Ghia is wearing 165's or something, but my spare is a 145. also, was your car in a front ender by any chance? sometimes a shoddy fix will leave a tight spare tire well.

do you still have the square <ahem> jack holes on your car? there is an old style jack (german) and a new style jack (mexican) that mounts in those holes. i think the old style is better, cuz the new style seem a bit... unsafe... and not cuz they are mexican, but because whoever designed them makes a crappy, unsafe looking jack! don't be pointing fingers at me you over-politically correct <ahem> jack holes. if there is a checkers/kragen/chiefs/autozone/whatever near you, look for one of those little floor jacks. they are small enough to sit on the floor boards in the back seat (not like anyone can fit their feet there anyways), but they have a wider, more stable footprint than either the german or mexican jacks.

while you're there, pick up one of those emergency kit things with flares, reflectors and the like. some states give you brownie points for that crap, and who knows, maybe you'll need it some day.

Wed Aug 20, 2008 6:25 am

"My wipers work but damn they're slow."

Not normal. Remove the wiper arms and drizzle a little PD blaster down the space between the pivot shaft and where it emerges from the housing. Spray some on the pivots, arms, and ends from inside under the hood, and carefully spray some on the area where where the shaft(s) attach to the motor.

The wipers ought to work just like any other car, steady and strong. They just need to be lubricated.

Wed Aug 20, 2008 11:12 am

Hey, another Maryland Ghia owner here... :D

On the spare question, your '68 coupe was probably originally fitted with 560-15 bias ply tires (about 155R15 metric equivalent). The "spare" is probably a 165R15 radial. That won't fit with a full load of air, at least not comfortably. You could try just keeping it half inflated... ;)

I ran into the same problem on my '74 Ghia (my '70 Beetle, too). I still run the cars on 165 radials but have a 155 radial for a spare. It's better than a donut and it fits in the hole.

You know, you don't have to get your Ghia inspected unless you want to get regular tags for it. Get historic or street rod tags instead. There's no inspection requirement for those classes and the tags are only a third as expensive. Technically they're only supposed to be for show cars on their way to events yaddy-yaddy, but I see all kinds of beat daily-driver running them and have never heard of anybody being hassled.

Wed Aug 20, 2008 4:37 pm

Hello, I'm gonna try to get on everyone's suggestions in the next couple of days. Thank you all.

My jack holes are square and I do still need to get a jack. I think I'll just get that kit with all the extras in it.

I checked the spare and it is a 165 like the rest of my tires which explains why it won't fit. :wink: Thanks for the tip on that one.

I thought about historic tags, but I have a good feeling I'll be about the only frequent ghia driver in the whole county and someone is bound to notice the tags. Especially once I get it painted. I get enough attention now. I knew of one other person with a ghia 10 years ago and I have no idea where she moved to. I haven't seen her in forever. Anyway, I don't want a hassle. I figure, I'm not too far off from passing, so just go for it. Most of my issues are minor and I'd probably like to have them working anyway.

So, I still need a working gas gauge. I know it's the sending unit for sure but I'm confused about what to buy. I've found these 2

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC%2D211%2D919%2D051

http://www.jbugs.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=271919051B&Category_Code=

First of all, there's about a $10 difference. I haven't purchased from either company to have any good or bad experiences or know about quality. I'm just looking at dollars. Second, the one from cip1 says I need this even though it's already showing in the pic.

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C16-111-135

Will I also need this?

http://www.jbugs.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=113919133&Category_Code=

Lastly, (jeez, sorry I know I ask a lot!) some say "electronic" and some don't. I know I need the "tube type". I don't know the difference as far as the electronic thing goes. They both look right. Help with this would be great. I'd like to go ahead and place the order. Thanks!!

Wed Aug 20, 2008 7:17 pm

For the wipers , you could maybe check the terminals and see if they could use a little filing or light sanding to improve contact. Reminds me I gotta do the same on a 72 bug. The wipers are going in slow motion.
I'll try oiling like Tc advised.

Wed Aug 20, 2008 7:19 pm

Thats quite a collection you got there !

denizen224 wrote: Hey, another Maryland Ghia owner here... :D

On the spare question, your '68 coupe probably came originally with bias ply tires that were about 155-15 equivalent. The "spare" is probably a 165-15 radial. That won't fit with a full load of air, at least not comfortably. You could try just keeping it half inflated... ;)

I ran into the same problem on my '74 Ghia (my '70 Beetle, too). I still run the cars on 165 radials but have a 155 radial for a spare. It's better than a donut and it fits in the hole.

You know, you don't have to get your Ghia inspected unless you want to get regular tags for it. Get historic or street rod tags instead. There's no inspection requirement for those classes and the tags are only a third as expensive. Technically they're only supposed to be for show cars on their way to events yaddy-yaddy, but I see all kinds of beat daily-driver running them and have never heard of anybody being hassled.

Thu Aug 21, 2008 6:01 am

VWs4Sunday wrote: My jack holes are square and I do still need to get a jack. I think I'll just get that kit with all the extras in it.
I'd recommend that you don't actually jack the car at the jack holes. The rockers may be softer than you think and you don't know it until the car sags. :( I carry a small scissor jack that fits under the beam in the front and the lower shock tower mount in the back, those are (or should be) solid jacking points. You can get used scissor jacks cheap at auto junk yards.

Quote: I'll be about the only frequent ghia driver in the whole county and someone is bound to notice the tags. Especially once I get it painted. I get enough attention now. I knew of one other person with a ghia 10 years ago and I have no idea where she moved to. I haven't seen her in forever.
What county are you in? I'd figure near the bay or ocean from the sea level reference. I'm in Harford.

Quote: So, I still need a working gas gauge. I know it's the sending unit for sure but I'm confused about what to buy. I've found these 2

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC%2D211%2D919%2D051

http://www.jbugs.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=271919051B&Category_Code=

First of all, there's about a $10 difference. I haven't purchased from either company to have any good or bad experiences or know about quality. I'm just looking at dollars.
There's probably little or no difference, they may even be from the same maker. I've used CIP and have no complaints, haven't used JBugs yet but haven't heard anything bad about them either.

Quote: Second, the one from cip1 says I need this even though it's already showing in the pic.

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C16-111-135

Will I also need this?

http://www.jbugs.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=113919133&Category_Code=
CIP may just be using a generic picture, if they say you need to order the gasket separate you probably do. They're cheap enough that if you wind up with a spare on the shelf that's probably not gonna break you. ;) JBugs also pictures a gasket in their ad, I'd call and ask if there's one included with their sender. That may be the tipping point in who to buy from. The separate gasket in the JBugs link doesn't look right, but again they may just be using a generic picture.

Quote: Lastly, (jeez, sorry I know I ask a lot!) some say "electronic" and some don't. I know I need the "tube type". I don't know the difference as far as the electronic thing goes. They both look right. Help with this would be great. I'd like to go ahead and place the order. Thanks!!
They probably specify electric because they'll work for busses (and Ghias according to JBugs) all the way back to 1955. That far back you (possibly) still could have gotten a 'dub with a mechanical gas gauge. The gauge in yours is electric, these are both the correct senders.

72Ghia wrote: Thats quite a collection you got there !
Thanks, tho' unfortunately only the newest three are on the road. The SC is currently being restored, the oval and low light are patiently waiting their turn.

Thu Aug 21, 2008 8:18 am

The CIP ad says the sender is VDO, the other does not. Its very likely the VDO unit is much better quality, possibly made in Europe. It it is and the other is not, get it.

The European/German made parts are more expensive but the quality more than offsets the cost. I always try to buy German/European parts.

I run a 145/65-15 for a spare. Fits nicely in the front nose and while its smaller than the 195/60-15s I run, should not be an issue in the unlikely event that I have a flat.

Although I have a stock jack by the spare for appearances, I would not use it. I carry a scissor jack that I purchased from my local FLAPS. Fits under the rear seat and as another poster said, works well in a variety of safe and secure jacking locations. Pick up a can of inflate a tire with the jack. Most times its all you will need to get rolling again.

Thu Aug 21, 2008 9:12 am

NOVA Airhead wrote: The CIP ad says the sender is VDO, the other does not. Its very likely the VDO unit is much better quality, possibly made in Europe. It it is and the other is not, get it.
Good eye, I missed that. I'd agree, the VDO from CIP is probably worth the $10 premium over the JBugs unit if that one is made by somebody else.

Thu Aug 21, 2008 9:26 am

...also. When you get the jack/spare sorted, remove each wheel and reinstall.

I had a heck of a time with some of the lug nuts on my car requiring 200 PSI on an air gun and PB Blaster. The car had new tires so I can only guess that some tire installer had their air gun set way too high. Its not something you want to discover while on the road.

After removal, reinstall the old fashioned way with a lug wrench. The wheels should be plenty tight using torque from an average person.

Thu Aug 21, 2008 5:34 pm

You can help distribute the load by also including an 8x12 piece of wood to fit between the jack and the car. Jim

Thu Aug 21, 2008 6:50 pm

Thanks everybody for all your advice. I'll be getting a jack in the next day or two. Thanks for the tire tip. I never thought of adjusting them in advance. I need to get new tires anyway and that's a really good idea. I'll get the sender from cip.

Today I fought with the horn. I can't get it stop going off. I searched and found a post that said to loosen the 3 screws and tighten them until it starts to beep, then slack it off again, but that didn't work. We ended up taking the whole thing off altogether and it was still going off. It must be grounded to something but I'm not really sure where to look. I'm going to consult the dummy book and see what I can find.

I also started on the seatbelts. It's a bit like a puzzle when you don't know what you're doing but I figured it out later while sitting at the Taco Bell drive thru :lol: I just ran out of daylight or I'd be out there now finishing up. Getting a bit closer to inspection. :)

Thu Aug 21, 2008 7:17 pm

Horn problems can be frustrating. If it keep going off its likely a short in the wire that runs down the column and attaches to the steering box. Its easy to replace. This should help:

http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/wired/wired_12_00/wired_12_00.htm

Thu Aug 21, 2008 7:27 pm

NOVA Airhead wrote: Horn problems can be frustrating. If it keep going off its likely a short in the wire that runs down the column and attaches to the steering box. Its easy to replace. This should help:

http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/wired/wired_12_00/wired_12_00.htm

Thanks! I'll go to my grandparents house and annoy the hell outta their neighbors tomorrow. :D

Fri Aug 22, 2008 5:08 am

NOVA Airhead wrote: Horn problems can be frustrating. If it keep going off its likely a short in the wire that runs down the column and attaches to the steering box. Its easy to replace.
Another potential problem is that the wire is shorted right under the horn ring ("ring" presumes you have the original steering wheel, this issue is similar for just a button). The wire grounds to the ring, and when you push it you compress springs that allows the ring to touch the circular copper brush in the column to complete the circuit.

But this means that the horn ring needs to be electrically isolated from the column, including the screws that attach it. This is done by putting plastic washers on the mounting screws on both sides of the ring, isolating the screw heads on one side and the springs on the other (or similar). If somebody's taken the ring off at some point and didn't put all the washers back in, the horn circuit will always be closed and the horn honking. DAMHIK. ;)

Mon Sep 01, 2008 5:20 pm

I got my horn working today. Actually my brother did it for me while I was playing with wiring. When we were finished, I noticed my turn signals weren't flashing. Yesterday they weren't working at all. I got them back on, but like I said, not flashing. My emergency blinkers don't work either.

My father hit the relay box by accident and the turn signals started working. The more he hit it, the better they worked until I tried the emerg. flashers. We hit the box again and the turn signals came back on. After cleaning the connections and making sure they were all tight, we still had the same result which is it works on occasion. The emergency lights still don't work at all and those connections were also cleaned and checked. At first I thought it was in the switch itself, but now I'm thinking it's in the box. This box looks like the original. Do you all think that I should just get a new flasher relay? I know that the interior lights are supposed to come on when the door opens and that's also hooked to that relay, but that has never worked for me to check.