TheSamba.com :: View topic - Need advice on cargo floor fix for 77 Westy

Tue Aug 19, 2008 11:37 pm

Hello,
This is my first post and I'm new to the type 2 restoration scene, so please go easy on me. I recently picked up a 77 westy (2000cc, the type with a sink but no stove). The price was right so I couldn't say no. Having said that, it needs some work... especially given all the rain we see in Vancouver.

A previous owner had screwed plywood over the original floor. I pulled that up and the floor was soaked. The smell was horrible. No shock that the cargo floor was rusted. I need advice on how to proceed. Should I cut out only the rusted sections, or should I remove the whole floor and replace it? I noticed that the cargo floor cross members are rusted, so if I replace them, I would need to remove the whole cargo floor wouldn't I? I'm not sure about the rocker panel too, but it doesn't look good.

I work about 2 blocks from california import parts, so I'll probably go with them for parts. Looking at their site, I can see a complete floor for older type 2s in a left and right piece... but for a 77 they have only the generic pieces. Would the replacement for the older floor fit in a 77?

I've put up some pictures of the floor in its current state with all the camping gear removed. You can find them here:
http://photoshare.shaw.ca/view/960798922-1219212954-27681/

Any recommendations would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Kyle

Tue Aug 19, 2008 11:47 pm

That last one concerns me.

Wed Aug 20, 2008 12:28 am

kyle556 wrote: Hello,
This is my first post and I'm new to the type 2 restoration scene, so please go easy on me. I recently picked up a 77 westy (2000cc, the type with a sink but no stove). The price was right so I couldn't say no. Having said that, it needs some work... especially given all the rain we see in Vancouver.

A previous owner had screwed plywood over the original floor. I pulled that up and the floor was soaked. The smell was horrible. No shock that the cargo floor was rusted. I need advice on how to proceed. Should I cut out only the rusted sections, or should I remove the whole floor and replace it? I noticed that the cargo floor cross members are rusted, so if I replace them, I would need to remove the whole cargo floor wouldn't I? I'm not sure about the rocker panel too, but it doesn't look good.
I work about 2 blocks from california import parts, so I'll probably go with them for parts. Looking at their site, I can see a complete floor for older type 2s in a left and right piece... but for a 77 they have only the generic pieces. Would the replacement for the older floor fit in a 77?

That is fixable but it is going to take some work. If your top hats(floor crossmembers) are rusted you'll need to pull out the whole floor to replace them. The older bus floor will not fit your bus. You'll have to buy the 2 "generic" pieces and use sheetmetal to make the rest of the sides.Or you could save as much of your original sides as you can and replace the rusted out parts with sheet metal.
How is the frame? Check it around the tube the tranny hooks to for rust out. If it is rusted I'd think twice about putting a bunch of money in it. If the frame is good I say go for it. You'll be plunking down a bit of green for sheetmetal. I hope you can weld. If not you'll be able to when you're done. :lol:

Good luck and keep us posted.

Wed Aug 20, 2008 6:33 am

Wow, that bus was cheap for a reason, start shopping for something a bit more solid. As Gmag sez have a real close look at the frame around the torsion tubes and the front beam and it's mounting area, you may get a big suprise.

If your's is a driveable runner find a solid shell from Washington or Oregon (not too many in BC anymore) and swap your goodies into it.

Wed Aug 20, 2008 6:57 am

As they say in Apocalypse Now ( the Movie), "Never get out of the boat unless you're going all the way."

Replace only what needs to be. i.e. the worst rusted areas. Allow at least 3 inches of sound are to weld in.

Back in the cave man days of the 60's; we would just wirebrush tape holes up with SS duct tape and skim coat with 1/4 inch epoxy resin. Much like a boat repair.

If you are going all the way--- take out all floor and crossmembers Measure on diagonals for rack . Tack weld crossmembers and remeasure. Then stitch weld floor in place.

Most 1st timers put way more into their bus than they will ever get back because it was too far gone to begin with.

Look at the bigger picture --enjoying the bus for what it is, basic transport and not a museum piece

Wed Aug 20, 2008 10:38 am

Personally I've done enough welding to learn when to stop, a bus that rotten just isn't worth the effort to save around these parts.
Here's one that's 2hr's away for under $500 (that's les than the patch panels cost), an afternoon with a buddy's truck or a U-haul, a little tax at the border and a couple weekends swapping parts, an import inspection and you are on the road in a safe, solid bus.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=651085
Here's another solid candidate that's another hour down the road, no pop top again but for $700 it would make a sweet bus nonetheless.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=640359
Can't beat German metal that's already welded in.

Wed Aug 20, 2008 12:53 pm

Thanks for all the replies. I guess I should have put a little more context in the posting. I could tell when I pulled up the floor that the cooler was leaking, or maybe the coils on the side of the cooler, I can't tell. All the moisture was coming from there then running forward underneath the floor. The worst of the rust seems to be concentrated underneath the cargo floor. Also, underneath the sink, the PO took out the grey water tank (is that what it's called?) and cut a drain pipe through the floor to drain to the outside.

The rest of the vehicle doesn't look near that bad. A few outside pictures might help put it in perspective. There's some wheel well work needed and the corners under the tail lights. The floor pan on the drivers side has a few holes etc.

I will definitely take a better look around the torsion tubes etc before proceeding, but I don't think I'm ready to push it off a cliff just yet.

Busdaddy, thanks for the links of buses for sale. I'm specifically looking for a Westy and the second one you suggested has wheel wells worse than mine, so I could end up in the same situation if not worse.

Regards,
Kyle

Wed Aug 20, 2008 1:11 pm

That's a shame about the rust. From the outside, it looks pretty darn good.

Wed Aug 20, 2008 1:13 pm

You have much to learn young grasshopper.

The first link is a Westy, just no pop top. The second link is a passenger bus and that is soundproofing residue, not cancer you see.
Your bus has had a quickie patch up along the rockers (see weld burn line from inside left rear 1/4), it was Westfalia that put the drainpipe there, the moisture under your floor is from the holes in the front and rear wheel wells.

Take it easy over bumps and railroad tracks :wink: .

Sat Sep 13, 2008 10:45 am

how are the repairs coming along..any updates or photos?? :)