TheSamba.com :: View topic

Wed Aug 20, 2008 7:07 am

Hey i am needing to rebuild my stock 30 pict 2 and was wondering what rebuild kit i should get for my bus. The carb has the 126-2 stamping on the base that indicates it's an emissions carb. I dont have to deal with any emissions control in the state i am in, can i get away with the standard rebuild kit, or should i just use the emissions carb. There is a big difference in price so i wonder what the emissions kit includes, will there be a difference in jet sizes?

111-198-569D Rebuild Kit, Solex 30 PICT-2 Non-Emission $36.10

111-198-569E Rebuild Kit, Solex 30 PICT-2 "126-2" Stamping $12.40

Wed Aug 20, 2008 7:57 am

All of the 30PICT-2s were emissions carbs - they were VW's first attempt at a modified carburetor for tighter emissions control. The emissions stuff was in two areas - the damned metering screw internal to the carb that you cannot access, then there was the throttle positioner that bolted on under the carb - a separate item.

I have no idea why the price difference in those kits. Where are they for sale? Usually you just have one kit for all 28 30 and through the 34PICT-3 carbs all together.

Okay I googled it and found it - Bus Boys. I don't know what's so special about that kit. The one change I know of on the 30PICT-2 series was the thread pitch of the "volume control" screw. If that's a part the comes in one kit but not the other, then I could guess that would be a reason for a high price. But if your idle mixture screw is OK then don't worry about it, and buy the general purpose gasket set instead! Like the one they listed as :

111-198-569RK Rebuild Kit, Universal for Solex 28/30/34 PICT Series (except 34 PICT-4) $9.00

or one of these:

http://www.busdepot.com/details.jsp?partnumber=113198575URK
http://www.busdepot.com/details.jsp?partnumber=111198569ZW

http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=111198567D

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC%2D111%2D198%2D569%2DU

Hopefully your carb isn't gunked up internally, if there's debris in the passenges that the captive metering screw is in, sometimes you will not be able to clean it out.

-Andy

Wed Aug 20, 2008 9:28 am

Yeah it's all quite strange indeed. I'll call them at bus-boys when i get back to work and let you know what the difference is. I'll probably just go with the bus depot kit. Does that one come with new jets?

Wed Aug 20, 2008 9:33 am

You shouldn't need any new jets at all. It is very very rare that they wear, not unless you've been poking wires in them to clean them out that is. No, the kits they sell are just the paper gaskets, the fuel inlet's needle valve and gasket/shims for it, gasket for the bowl/mainjet access plug, the rubber accelerator pump diaphram, the choke pull-off diaphram, plus maybe a couple of different mixture/volume control screws - depending on which dollar amount kit you buy. The ones in the kit won't fit the 30PICT-2, but if yours is in good shape there's no need to replace it anyway.

-Andy

Wed Aug 20, 2008 10:22 am

Hmm, well i bought it "rebuilt" slapped it on and was having issues with giving me rough idle. I figured i would just clean it out and rebuild it. The jets are somewhat to spec as far as a bus jetting goes. I cant get into the numbers at this moment they are written down in my bentley manual. But i was having trouble with the idle going up and down and just rough in general. When it is going down the road it drives beautifully, but when it's at idle it's a mess. I was having high idle issues but i replaced the idle jet 125 with the stock for that carb idle cut off solenoid size 50, it brought the idle but then gave me issues with the idle fluctuating.

I thought it could be the fuel pump putting out too much fuel, but i figured i would rebuild the carb before i messed with the fuel pump. For some odd reason i dont want to mess with it. And im not sure if it's the kind that you can shim up to adjust the pressure.

Wed Aug 20, 2008 10:47 am

vwjoe84 wrote: \ When it is going down the road it drives beautifully, but when it's at idle it's a mess. I was having high idle issues but i replaced the idle jet 125 with the stock for that carb idle cut off solenoid size 50, it brought the idle but then gave me issues with the idle fluctuating.

What carb did you have on there before, and how did it run?

Sounds like the typical 30PICT-2 idle circuit problems to me. Sometimes you just can't clean the crud out of those passenges, not with that factory set metering screw stuck inside the carb body.

Personally I much prefer the simpler 30PICT-1 carb.

Wed Aug 20, 2008 10:54 am

currently i have my old 30/31 on there. I rebuilt and put it back on for the time being until i fix this pict 2.

Yeah that screw is probably where my problem is. The screw head looks like it's never been touched with a flat head so i'll try and remove it tonight. Is this a screw that needs to be set to a certain position, or do you just screw it back in there and it's done?

Wed Aug 20, 2008 11:09 am

Hiya Joe,

Were I you, and wanted to keep going with a Solex, I'd think about looking into a 30PICT3.

Anyway..........when you tackle that metering screw you might want to use a hollow point screwdriver or screwdriver bit. That should give you a better "bite" on the screwhead.

Wed Aug 20, 2008 11:17 am

well... that screw is not designed to be adjusted or removed. I don't think the Bus Bentley has the cutaway diagram that they put in the Type 1 manuals. That diagram says not to alter the setting of that screw. If you can even budge it that is - It was set from the factory and locked in place. When they were new this was no problem but I'm sure this design was soon singled out as potential for problems which is why they redesigned it all in 1970 as the PICT-3 carb, a much better design. I still like the simplicity of the 30PICT-1 best though.

Wed Aug 20, 2008 12:52 pm

Thanks everyone for your suggestions and comments, I aint gonna dump this carburetor for another one yet. The diagram helped, i wont even bother with the screw, i'll just stick some carb cleaner up in the hole that comes from the idle circuit, that might clean around that screw, then maybe boil it. Im not sure yet. Though i forgot to mention, note i didnt rebuild this, nor did i check any of the screws on it. But when i took it off and went to take the carb apart, the 5 screws that hold on the upper part were finger tight at best. So hell i might of had a vacuum leak all along. I dont know why i hadn't thought of that till now..... Well im still gonna rebuild it just cause it will help me sleep better at night. I'll PM ya glutamodo when i get it all back in and tuned up. Thanks again.