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Wed Aug 20, 2008 5:01 pm

Hi,

Midway through replacing the transmission final drive seals on my '69, and I'm wondering how far in those buggers must go? Bottomed out, I've read. There all but in, but not quite as recessed as the older ones. I'd say they're just a smidgin (1/32") above the level of the adjusting ring.

I found a socket that's very close to the same diameter of the seal, applied a light film of oil, then smacked them in with a 3' sledge, but they're not quite at the bottom bevel of the adjusting ring, which is what I remember of the old ones.

Should this be okay? My ears are ringing, so I sure hope so...

Also, though they're in uniformly all the way around, the seal's inner edges don't seem as "perpendicular" as the old, hard one. Almost like the sealing side of the seal grabbed it's mate and wedgied it way in. Does this make any sense at all? If so, cause for concern?

I should go grab a photo of it...

Thanks

Wed Aug 20, 2008 5:47 pm

Lastly, should the outward seal face be flat? Mine is somewhat concave...

Thanks for your opinion!

Wed Aug 20, 2008 6:58 pm

looks to me like the middle of the seal got pushed in when it was installed.

Wed Aug 20, 2008 9:23 pm

i can see the socket imprint. it was too small. needs to be driven near the rim.

i also mark the position of the differential adjusting ring with respect to the trans case before removal of the seal. on one of mine, the ring turned as i was prying, and i had no idea where it was before it turned. had to remove the other flange and use the dial indicator to reset. PITA. dont let this happen to you- very time consuming...

Thu Aug 21, 2008 7:54 am

Thanks for the input guys.

Scott: I came across your great pictorial on this process. Once the seal is in place, should the outward face be completely flat, or is some slight cupping going to allow leakage?

Also, what type of pipe is that you used for the install tool? I looked at the standard hardware store variety and didn't find anything suitable...

Thu Aug 21, 2008 8:20 am

monquatch wrote: Thanks for the input guys.Once the seal is in place, should the outward face be completely flat, or is some slight cupping going to allow leakage?

Also, what type of pipe is that you used for the install tool? I looked at the standard hardware store variety and didn't find anything suitable...

i can't say for sure what the cupping will do. if you look at the geometry of the situation, if the seal is cupped the diameter should be slightly larger than if it is square, so that doesn't make me fell too good.

i used a large diameter tube for that tool in the pictorial, something just shy of the seal diameter. you could also use a bearing driver tool, you can get cheap sets with many sizes of collars for this sort of job. a tool that pulls the seal into place is always better than hitting it, but hitting it will work fine if you do it slowly and gently enough. the seal has a metal collar inside, but it is very thin and you have to bear on the seal right on the edge where the collar is strongest, not in from the edge.

probably not what you want to hear, but if that were my transaxle i would be putting another seal in there and getting it to stay square. in a pinch and with great care you might be able to remove the new seal, straighten it and reinstall, but the seals are cheap and if you can get another one without a big hassle, i'd be thinking about that.

Thu Aug 21, 2008 8:22 am

More questions!

Thumbing through Bentley, REPLACING REAR DRIVESHAFT OIL SEAL, it says to "lightly coat the outer surface of the new seal with sealing compound."

Do the final drive seals also get sealing compound? If so, can someone please recommend a product?

Thu Aug 21, 2008 9:46 am

Quote: if you look at the geometry of the situation, if the seal is cupped the diameter should be slightly larger than if it is square, so that doesn't make me fell too good.

if the seal contacted the flange right at the cupped surface, then yes, the contact surface would have a larger diameter. but thats not the case. it is set in a ways, and the rubber in between the cupped surface and the contact point will bow a lot easier than the contact ring will stretch- especially considering the spring that backs the contact ring.

BTW, i drove mine from the rim, and it bowed anyway owing to the fact that it was such a high friction bitch fit. never leaked- whatever thats worth to ya
.

Thu Aug 21, 2008 10:31 am

dansvans wrote: the fact that it was such a high friction bitch fit.
I knew her too! I couldn't decide if it was a good or a bad thing either...

Thu Aug 21, 2008 10:43 am

Try tapping it in with a large wooden dowl, or use the bottom of a hammer handel and a rubber mallet. Work it slowly from side to side, top to bottom. I didnt use sealing compound on mine and it dosent leak a drop.

Thu Aug 21, 2008 10:53 am

dansvans wrote:
Quote: it was such a high friction bitch fit

From my experience with wrenching and manuals and threads and such is that there is a distinct shortage of this type of invaluable language. Instructions are great, and us part-timers absolutely need them, but shouldn't there also be some type of legend that denotes "bitch fit" levels, say a scale of 1 to 5 asterisks (*) for M#!^erFu^*!# threshold of said job?

To Bentley's credit, however, it does show installing it via a press...

Thanks for at least a little validation, dansvans. I'll move on and make a note to post back down the line with a leakage update.

Thu Aug 21, 2008 11:32 am

Quote: To Bentley's credit, however, it does show installing it via a press...

germans :roll: they use a press for everything. look in the bentley and you will see them pressing on the CV joint too. ridiculous. being supposed nordic supermen, they sure take the easy way out.

Thu Aug 21, 2008 11:33 am

jah_B wrote: dansvans wrote: the fact that it was such a high friction bitch fit.
I knew her too! I couldn't decide if it was a good or a bad thing either...

are we officially off topic now? :lol: