TheSamba.com :: View topic - Whats the best year to convert into Baja?

Sat Aug 23, 2008 7:24 pm

I am looking to covert a VW bug or beetle what ever you call it into a street legal baga that I can also go off road in from time to time. Can anyone tell me what bug would be best suited for this?

Sat Aug 23, 2008 8:08 pm

1969 :lol:

Sat Aug 23, 2008 8:14 pm

That is the first year to look for.

You want a 69-71 bug not super beetle.

So basically you will get a balljoint front end and irs rear end.

Sat Aug 23, 2008 8:30 pm

70............

:lol:

Sat Aug 23, 2008 9:31 pm

I personally prefer a 65, and I have reasons for my madness.

The 65 was the last year that the Link Pin beam was used. It did come with a swing axle, but it is far easier to convert the swing axle tortion housing to IRS than it is to take the front frame head off and put on a link pin head. There are more after market parts to convert the Link Pin to longer travel and coil over operation.

You say occasional off-road, but I promise that once you get started, you will become addicted and want MORE. So start with the 65, then you can upgrade to longer travel and wider beams as your addiction grows. You will have to do more work in the beginning, but it will be worth it once you actually realized how hard it is to convert from ball joint to L/P. You will have to deal with electrical issues as the 65's were 6 volt, not 12 volt. Other than that and converting to IRS, you should be good to go.

Sat Aug 23, 2008 9:34 pm

the problem with starting with a 65 is that to really go longer travel you will need to push the front end out anyway to accomodate the longer arms.Or they will hit the body in front.And doing a frame head swap isn't too hard.Mine, just cut the whole thing off and ran the cage through to the front end.

Sat Aug 23, 2008 10:16 pm

1972!!!!! because thats what i have!!!! :D But i would say 69+ for the IRS rear end but just stay away from getting a super beetle as you probably know by now. (curved windshield =NO )

Sat Aug 23, 2008 11:19 pm

dune_dude wrote: I personally prefer a 65, and I have reasons for my madness.

The 65 was the last year that the Link Pin beam was used. It did come with a swing axle, but it is far easier to convert the swing axle tortion housing to IRS than it is to take the front frame head off and put on a link pin head. There are more after market parts to convert the Link Pin to longer travel and coil over operation.

You say occasional off-road, but I promise that once you get started, you will become addicted and want MORE. So start with the 65, then you can upgrade to longer travel and wider beams as your addiction grows. You will have to do more work in the beginning, but it will be worth it once you actually realized how hard it is to convert from ball joint to L/P. You will have to deal with electrical issues as the 65's were 6 volt, not 12 volt. Other than that and converting to IRS, you should be good to go.

its consiterably easier to convert to LP than is is from swing to IRS.

i would chose a late model car for a few reasons

1.they are more pleantiful, and no one cares if you cut a fatty

2. the bodys are wider and there is more room in the cab.

3. you get IRS stock

4. the electrical is already 12v

Sun Aug 24, 2008 12:08 am

What about the cages they put in them is there a blue print for a cage around? I would like to try to make my own cage . Im a welder fabricator and I have access to a lot of equipment in the shop I work at .

Sun Aug 24, 2008 12:30 am

Shawn197331 wrote: What about the cages they put in them is there a blue print for a cage around? I would like to try to make my own cage . Im a welder fabricator and I have access to a lot of equipment in the shop I work at .

the cages are one size fits all.

Sun Aug 24, 2008 4:54 am

69 I think that was the highest production yr

Sun Aug 24, 2008 5:54 am

the year of the Bug that is sitting in Your driveway!

Sun Aug 24, 2008 7:05 am

Shawn197331 wrote: What about the cages they put in them is there a blue print for a cage around? I would like to try to make my own cage . Im a welder fabricator and I have access to a lot of equipment in the shop I work at .

I think the prefabbed cages are ok at best. And just so you know if you ever got an itch to race the car once just for the fun of it you wont be able to because prefabbed cages are not made out of the minimum thickness on the tubing.

You are much better making your own. It may be time consuming but you will be much happier with the end result.

As far as the ball-joint front end I will take my 9 car up against anyone with a king or link front end any day of the week, ok maybe just weekends cause I have to work during the week. If you get to the point of wanting to go long travel then you will have to cut the front end off anyways so it is a moot point really.

Mon Sep 01, 2008 3:00 pm

So basically could I use any year long as its not a super beetle? I have lots of cutting and welding tools and have access to a lot of other equipment to so I don't mined modifying a bit If i have to.

Mon Sep 01, 2008 3:03 pm

Can you show me pics of the different chassis that you guy are talking about?

Thu Sep 04, 2008 7:57 pm

personaly i think 69 cause of irs no super and ive always thought that thaey looked the best

Thu Sep 04, 2008 9:35 pm

You know my vote. You may get an ass-kicking out there though from the purists.

(...hiding my head, as I know rocks are coming my way from all directions....)

Fri Sep 05, 2008 12:26 am

57baja wrote: You know my vote. You may get an ass-kicking out there though from the purists.

(...hiding my head, as I know rocks are coming my way from all directions....)

Im with you
i have a 52 Baja in the works (Yes i said 52)
i was looking for an oval but came accross the 52 first

Fri Sep 05, 2008 6:29 am

57baja wrote: You know my vote. You may get an ass-kicking out there though from the purists.

(...hiding my head, as I know rocks are coming my way from all directions....)

If my 1957 Oval does not sell soon, it WILL be Baja'd. I teach Econ, so this is my perspective. If the vehicle is not worth purchasing/restoring/saving (as the market has said) then it is worth making it a Baja. I cannot even get a rust free Fat Chick for what I am asking for this car, so why sell it and get one of those? The market decided it is not worth saving at that price and it is not worth selling for less, because I cannot replace it with rust free anything at that price. Kudos to the poster above me, you are BRAVE...
a 1952??? We need pics...

Fri Sep 05, 2008 7:32 am

I think an all stock 1972 standard Beetle is the best years to go with. I'd look at anything 1969-1974. I found a '72 for my project. Remember, nothing is stock after 30+ years...

1969
Double-jointed rear axles on all models. Swing axle transaxle is replaced by IRS transaxle. (Independent Rear Suspension)

1970
1600 engine, 57hp. Solex 30 PICT-3 carburetor. Diaphragm spring clutch replaces coil spring clutch to provide quicker engagement with less pedal pressure.

late 1970
New third and fourth gears with finer teeth resulted in better mesh and reduced transmission noise.

1971
1600 engine with dual port heads introduced, 60hp. Three part manifold. New combination vacuum/centrifugal advance distributor. Solex 34 PICT-3 carburetor. New oil cooler which causes a bump in the fan shrouding (dog house style) which cools cylinder number three better.
Pressed-in engine mounting nut on the left side of case.
New clutch throw-out assembly and ball bearing.

late 1971
Larger oil pump. Different camshaft with four rivets instead three holding camshaft gear.

1972
New distributor with a vacuum retard at idle. Transmission third and fourth gear synchronizer rings were modified to prevent fourth gear howling which sometimes resulted from a cold transmission.

1973
Horsepower drops from 60 to 58. Alternator replaces generator in mid-year and increases output to 600W. Improved intake pre-heating for faster cold-weather starts. Reinforcement of the engine case in the flywheel area near number 3 cylinder. Softer transmission mounting with different style mounts. More durable, easier to operate clutch. Porsche-style pressure plate. New heavy duty braced doors. New fuel pump redesigned with cutoff valve and made to clear alternator. Front and rear wheel bearings no longer require periodic lubrication.

1974
New cylinder head alloy for better heat dissipation. Computer check sensor pressed into top of block, close to flywheel, to read TDC (top dead center). Computer check sensor to check ignition voltage.

late 1974
Alternator has an integral regulator. Distributor is now vacuum and centrifically activated.