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Fri Aug 29, 2008 1:56 pm

i think my rear line in the floorpan tunnel is leaking, i say this because theres break fluid leaking from the drain by the tranny. its just always wet there, drips too.

1- how difficult?
2- should i just run a new line on the belly of the car?
3- whats the best way to boost pressure to the rear line?

for example.... while breaking, if i pull the e-brake i can stop pretty quick, and the pedal feels normal.

normally... the pedal is soft, and it seems like the front are doing ALL the work.

Fri Aug 29, 2008 4:09 pm

I replaced my brake line on my 65. The line is actually not in the tunnel but rather runs beside the tunnel on the drivers side. You just have to open the clips up that hold it in place. The hardest part was making the bends right at the pedal cluster.

Fri Aug 29, 2008 4:55 pm

1st65ghia wrote: I replaced my brake line on my 65. The line is actually not in the tunnel but rather runs beside the tunnel on the drivers side. You just have to open the clips up that hold it in place. The hardest part was making the bends right at the pedal cluster.

its in the cabin? :shock:
that means theres break fluid on my pans!!!!!! EEEEKK!!!! :evil:

Fri Aug 29, 2008 8:06 pm

The job itself isn't too bad, I think I did mine in an afternoon. The most difficult part was trying to stay patient and take the time to make the bends in the new line at the pedals without kinking them. It may be easier to remove the pedals, but I don't think I did when I replaced my brake line. Otherwise, it went pretty quick. The old one should come out pretty easy, but don't destroy it. You can use it as a template for the bend radius and bend locations.

Fri Aug 29, 2008 8:39 pm

It runs tight against the tunnel so maybe you can lift your carpet up just a bit to see if there is fluid. If its leaving a spot on the ground the carpet should also be soaked. There is no movement of the line so unless it just plain rotted out maybe it's coming from somewhere elso. Check the gromet under the rear seat on the drivers side where the line exits to the underside of the car an see if that might have rubbed through.

Sat Aug 30, 2008 12:11 am

Also a very likely (I'd say MORE likely given you see the dripping near the transaxle) is the comparitively shorter hardline that runs from the rear junction block over the tunnel fork from driver to passenger side...

This one is a real PITA to deal with because you can barely see it and it's squeezed in close to the transaxle's nose cone and the chassis fork where it crosses over...
If the main hydraulic line from MC to rear junction block leaks it usually does so INSIDE the car not out back near the transaxle...

Ummm? Unless you park regularily on an extreme hillside ?? 8)

Sat Aug 30, 2008 9:32 am

If the drip is from the hole in the center of the tunnel in the back, the more likely cause of the leak is at the M/C. It leaks in the void between inner and outer front "firewall" area and makes its way to the rear of the car. Does your car sit lower in the back?? Pull the cover plate off above the shift rod coupler and check for brake fluid in the tunnel. I discovered this AFTER I replaced the hard line. :oops:

Sat Aug 30, 2008 8:25 pm

kpghia wrote: If the drip is from the hole in the center of the tunnel in the back, the more likely cause of the leak is at the M/C. It leaks in the void between inner and outer front "firewall" area and makes its way to the rear of the car. Does your car sit lower in the back?? Pull the cover plate off above the shift rod coupler and check for brake fluid in the tunnel. I discovered this AFTER I replaced the hard line. :oops:

alright, ill do some closer inspections.

Sun Aug 31, 2008 7:21 am

When you get the new brake line (Any auto parts store) get yourself a bender about $10.00 and keeps you from bending the line flat....

Sun Aug 31, 2008 10:27 am

When I worked on hydraulic pumps we made some bent tubing out of copper. To prevent it from kinking we cut it longer than it needed to be, smashed one end closed and folded over, then filled the pipe with sand. Then smash the other end flat and bend the pipe. After you get the bend you want, trim it to length.

Obviously you are working with a break line, so if you do this make 100% sure that you clean the pipe properly. Once you are 100% you cleaned the inside of the pipe, clean it again.

Sun Aug 31, 2008 1:56 pm

Well you wouldn't want to do that to this since the ends are the important part with connection fittings on them. To do it right, a bender in invaluable and dirt cheap. Also, if you think there is brake fluid in the pan you NEED to flush it out with water and blow it out with air. Brake fluid is an amazing corrosion agent.

Sun Aug 31, 2008 9:19 pm

execk2 wrote: Well you wouldn't want to do that to this since the ends are the important part with connection fittings on them. To do it right, a bender in invaluable and dirt cheap. Also, if you think there is brake fluid in the pan you NEED to flush it out with water and blow it out with air. Brake fluid is an amazing corrosion agent.

yes, i know. somebody got there car dumped with brake fluid.... ruined his new cars paint.

THATS way i shat myself when i saw it