| hpw |
Sun Sep 07, 2008 6:31 pm |
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Quote: Unlike hpw's experience (applaus to him BTW... sometimes endurance and "guts" is what it takes! kudo's to you mein herr!
considering I was literally turning the drill bit by hand/pliers because of the
clearance issues of not being able to get a drill in there. I don't know about
the guts part, maybe more stupidity for undertaking such a task. |
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| richardsxfile |
Sun Sep 07, 2008 11:37 pm |
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The saga continues…
This is mostly a response to Jeff’s last post:
Yes, where before point B was resting directly on the torsion bar mount, there is now a gap there about the same thickness as the rubber pads I placed at the shock tower. And, yes, the photos were taken after I had tightened everything back down. I did not notice a change in the door gap on either side; if there was any it was miniscule. I thought perhaps that the four bolts under the rear seat would perform some of the job of the point B bolts. Do you mean to say that if I had clear shots at the torsion bar mounts I could drive bolts in there and close the current “pad gap” entirely? That’s some serious twisting!
I’m totally with you on the impossibility of drilling those sheared bolts out without removing the body; I wrote that possibility off as soon as I saw them. I’d have to drill blindly with a 90 degree angle drill attachment. That is a very awkward location even if I could totally see what I was doing.
I also totally understand both of your creative solutions, and, you’re right, I could try one out to see if I get the desired flex. I’m almost certain the hinge post is fine. I’m also certain that my Ghia did take a hit to the left rear somewhere just behind the lock pillar at some time in its life. Maybe the forces involved pulled the top of the lock pillar back a bit?
I believe I have also discovered why the door offers resistance in the final push to close it – in addition to rubber and dash thickness. The bottom edge at the front of the door is slightly pushed inward. I can’t tell looking at the profile of the door, but lying on the ground looking straight up at the bottom of the door I can see the line deviate inward just enough so that it binds a bit in the corner. Amazing how none of these issues caused problems with the bad hinges; now I’m discovering all my Ghia’s dirty secrets.
Next plan for me is to try to straighten the bottom of that door and perhaps shim behind the hinges to close the gap at the rear of the door a bit and give the dash and rubber more room.
One other problem that has become more apparent with the new hinges is that the dragging of the door from bad hinges has made the rear bottom of the door not flush with the body when the top of the door is. Is there a way to twist the doors while they are on the car or will I damage the hinges. I assume the years of the door hitting the sill caused this, right? I’d like that bottom edge to be flush obviously, and I’m sure that’s going to take some serious force to push it in – not sure how to do it.
Anyway, here’s a photo of what you guys are all helping me make right! Thanks again.
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