| testarossaguy |
Tue Sep 02, 2008 4:38 pm |
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As some may know....I have aquired a Mexi-Beetle that has zero rust. The problem is...that there also isn't any rust proofing anywhere on the car either.
I live in Michigan and will drive the car in nice weather only, so it won't be exposed to rain, snow, or salt. But it will see water - when I wash it.
I've heard of "old timers" washing their cars in kerosene (and then soap & water afterwards), the reason being that kerosene will leave a protective film in cracks, crevices, behind mouldings, etc. Even though it may smell....I think this makes sense.
What are some other suggestions for protecting the car from corrosion? |
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| Russ Wolfe |
Tue Sep 02, 2008 5:05 pm |
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Get a cargo container, put the car in it, and seal it. Then fill the container with dry nitrogen.
Sealed containers with nitrogen is how they preserve things in museums. |
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| hpw |
Tue Sep 02, 2008 5:12 pm |
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testarossaguy wrote: As some may know....I have aquired a Mexi-Beetle that has zero rust. The problem is...that there also isn't any rust proofing anywhere on the car either.
I live in Michigan and will drive the car in nice weather only, so it won't be exposed to rain, snow, or salt. But it will see water - when I wash it.
I've heard of "old timers" washing their cars in kerosene (and then soap & water afterwards), the reason being that kerosene will leave a protective film in cracks, crevices, behind mouldings, etc. Even though it may smell....I think this makes sense.
What are some other suggestions for protecting the car from corrosion?
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1822741&highlight=#1822741
I asked the same thing and have been using Meguiars Quik Detailer
I don't use water and the detailer works great. |
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| realbugfanatic |
Tue Sep 02, 2008 6:12 pm |
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Keep it out of the weather as much as possible & paint the hidden seams & known trouble spots with a zinc-paint (look up cold galvanizing paint) so it'll act as a sacrificial anode. Paint the pan & undersides of your fenders with POR-15 to help prevent rock chips & scale. You'll be golden.
Oh yeah, & flush your radiator yearly. :wink: |
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| testarossaguy |
Tue Sep 02, 2008 6:49 pm |
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Hmmmm....Thanks RUSS for that insightful tip....is that suggestion based on your personal experience :-|
HPW: Not a bad idea at that....
REALBUGFANATIC: Excellent advice, Thank You! |
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| Russ Wolfe |
Tue Sep 02, 2008 7:19 pm |
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Dry nitrogen has always been a way to keep things dry.
We used it at work on our processes where we could not have any oxygen present during the process.
Oxygen is needed for rust/oxidation to form. |
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| tstracy39 |
Tue Sep 02, 2008 8:13 pm |
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| Rustoleum Hammered Finish paint is a good product to protect the wheel wells with if you don't have access to a paint shop. It's much thicker than any hardware store paint and cheaper than anything at the auto paint store plus it comes in any color. I'm pretty sure it can be applied over their cold galvanizing compound too. I've never tried POR-15 though I hear it's good stuff. |
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| paxilill |
Tue Sep 02, 2008 8:36 pm |
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| If I ever caught you washing a car in kerosene in my area I would have to give you a severe tongue lashing. |
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| anthracitedub |
Tue Sep 02, 2008 8:52 pm |
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I bet if you just keep it out of the salt, keep it clean, and keep it out of the water as much as possible...it will last you well into your golden years.
JGW |
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| VWAdam |
Tue Sep 02, 2008 9:44 pm |
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anthracitedub wrote: I bet if you just keep it out of the salt, keep it clean, and keep it out of the water as much as possible...it will last you well into your golden years.
JGW
I'll second that. I live in the humid southeast, and cars that are garaged here will stay nice for years, even if they see rain. It's the salt that kills the cars for the most part, usually if you don't live on the coast or somewhere where they salt the roads they'll last. |
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| testarossaguy |
Wed Sep 03, 2008 4:16 am |
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Thank You Guys for the input. Some may think it's extreme, but after washing a car I use a leaf blower to blast water out of any hidden areas where it may be trapped.
Some years ago I restored a 63 split-window Vette, every nut and bolt. Sad thing was it was too nice to drive once it was done. For storage I would detail the car to perfection, put a flannel cover over it, roll it into a giant baggy, toss dessicant bags in there, and finally use a shop vac to suck most of the air out and then seal the baggy up. Next spring upon removal the car looked just as good as when I put it in there, even bare steel parts stayed nice. I could do this same system on the Beetle - as you can tell I'm quite anal about my cars. |
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| hpw |
Wed Sep 03, 2008 4:17 am |
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testarossaguy wrote: Thank You Guys for the input. Some may think it's extreme, but after washing a car I use a leaf blower to blast water out of any hidden areas where it may be trapped.
Some years ago I restored a 63 split-window Vette, every nut and bolt. Sad thing was it was too nice to drive once it was done. For storage I would detail the car to perfection, put a flannel cover over it, roll it into a giant baggy, toss dessicant bags in there, and finally use a shop vac to suck most of the air out and then seal the baggy up. Next spring upon removal the car looked just as good as when I put it in there, even bare steel parts stayed nice. I could do this same system on the Beetle - as you can tell I'm quite anal about my cars.
Where did you get the giant baggy :?: :D |
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| andk5591 |
Wed Sep 03, 2008 5:33 am |
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If you drive it - also consider a quality bedliner paint for the wheel wells and pan. I brushed on Herculiner in my wheel wells, spare tire ares and a couple other spots and I live on a mile long dirt and gravel road. This stuff is great - no chipping at all. Keep in mind though, that I drive my cars a lot. Have 3500 miles in the 65 since June and it was in a paint shop for a roof repair/paint for 5 weeks in July......
Drawbacks -
Nasty to work with - you need to use Xylene to cut it, but its way more durable that the water based stuff.
Surface prep is critical like any painting - must be clean clean clean and yuo have to scuff the surface so it bites.
Next to impossible to remove - If you decide to do it, you aint gonna remove it later.
Limited colors - Black, red or Gray (and maybe white, not sure) |
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| KTPhil |
Wed Sep 03, 2008 8:41 am |
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| I can't find the link, but there is a site that advicated spraying some type of oil into all the nooks and crannies, including heater channels (it must smell fine!), to make sure moisture cannot get there. Anyone remember the site/link? |
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| realbugfanatic |
Wed Sep 03, 2008 8:58 am |
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| I believe it's called Waxoyl & that stuff is awesome! |
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| hpw |
Wed Sep 03, 2008 9:10 am |
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http://www.minimotors.com/catalog/product.php?productid=9236
Forum discussing waxoyl
http://www.discoweb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=24715
excellent video on applying.
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| sammyphsyco |
Wed Sep 03, 2008 8:44 pm |
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| Move to the desert, thats where I keep all my cars :lol: . |
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| Geb |
Wed Sep 03, 2008 9:06 pm |
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For the hard to reach areas I use:
Fluid Film
http://www.eurekafluidfilm.com/
Carwell Rust Cop
http://www.carwell.com/retail.html
Works for me. |
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