TheSamba.com :: View topic

Sun Dec 28, 2008 6:35 pm

I think flat black or semi gloss engine tins would look good against this, what do you think?

Sun Dec 28, 2008 7:22 pm

lookin good

Sun Dec 28, 2008 7:54 pm

All I can say is you are amazing at being a home made body man and car fixer. Be careful when you finally get it on the road :wink:

Thu Jan 01, 2009 8:41 am

So I just finished restoring a speedo last night. The one that came in the car had a broken needle and I had another one kicking around that ended in the same letter (E) as the broken one. 111 957 023E

It took some time, but I didn't want to rush b/c I never fooled with a speedo before. I took it all apart, changed the mileage to match the mileage of the one that came with the car, buffed and polished the chrome ring, and replaced the plastic for the oil/gen/blinker lights. It's such an improvement from how it originally looked I'm pumped!

A tip for you guys who need to restore yours as well, I found that the colored transparent tabs for notebooks works really well to replace the original cracked/faded warning light plastic. Take a look.

It's kinda blurry but you get the point.

I bought these at Staples for a couple bucks, and they're soo worth it. They are kinda thin when you use 1 piece, so I doubled it up using 2 layers and it looks perfect. :D

Thu Jan 01, 2009 11:08 am

Wouldnt you have saved time and money if you had just used POR15 from the start? The outcome looks the same imo. I personally havent used either yet but from all ive seen and read but others on here that have redone simalar things look like yours without the silver base first. Why did you go this route? Just trying to gather all the info i can before i start mine.

Thu Jan 01, 2009 3:36 pm

deluxekombi67 wrote: Wouldnt you have saved time and money if you had just used POR15 from the start? The outcome looks the same imo. I personally havent used either yet but from all ive seen and read but others on here that have redone simalar things look like yours without the silver base first. Why did you go this route? Just trying to gather all the info i can before i start mine.

The reason why I started with the Masterseries silver is because it's a permanent rust sealer. When I bought the paint I was told to use the silver first as a rust preventative, and the black on top b/c it's a chassis coating. I honestly don't know if there's a difference, but using a "permanent rust sealer" just makes me feel better.

Thu Jan 01, 2009 3:41 pm

I started stripping the motor today too. What do you think I should do about the oil cooler? A bunch of the fins are flattened and it's probably the original. I want to say I should just buy a new one, since I'm this far into it already.

^^My parts tables^^

Thu Jan 01, 2009 4:37 pm

iaccy wrote: deluxekombi67 wrote: Wouldnt you have saved time and money if you had just used POR15 from the start? The outcome looks the same imo. I personally havent used either yet but from all ive seen and read but others on here that have redone simalar things look like yours without the silver base first. Why did you go this route? Just trying to gather all the info i can before i start mine.

The reason why I started with the Masterseries silver is because it's a permanent rust sealer. When I bought the paint I was told to use the silver first as a rust preventative, and the black on top b/c it's a chassis coating. I honestly don't know if there's a difference, but using a "permanent rust sealer" just makes me feel better.

Ohh i see...i always thought POR15 was a rust sealer...but like i said ive yet to use it so dont know for sure.

Thu Jan 01, 2009 5:02 pm

Quote: .i always thought POR15 was a rust sealer

It is and it comes in silver also, but is not uv tolerant, so should be

to-coated if left exposed to the sun. If not top coated and left in the sun,

will just fade, but will not lose its effectiveness.

Thu Jan 01, 2009 8:15 pm

Just get in there with a awl or somethin' and straighten 'em out. When you're done, blow out the passages with compressed air to make sure they are clear. I had to do that with my current engine.

Fri Feb 27, 2009 5:45 pm

WOW what a lot of work but coming along beautifully. Nice attention to detail. No bolt left unturned no old paint or rust over looked. =D>
I love the rim choice you are using. :roll:

Sun Mar 01, 2009 4:04 am

.......

Sun Mar 01, 2009 4:38 am

What tire sizes are on that car? They look great.

And your work is goming along nicely. I cant wait untill I get a welder so I can start patching up the rusted areas in my 65 finally.

Sun Mar 01, 2009 10:02 am

iaccy wrote: So I just finished restoring a speedo last night. The one that came in the car had a broken needle and I had another one kicking around that ended in the same letter (E) as the broken one. 111 957 023E

It took some time, but I didn't want to rush b/c I never fooled with a speedo before. I took it all apart, changed the mileage to match the mileage of the one that came with the car, buffed and polished the chrome ring, and replaced the plastic for the oil/gen/blinker lights. It's such an improvement from how it originally looked I'm pumped!

A tip for you guys who need to restore yours as well, I found that the colored transparent tabs for notebooks works really well to replace the original cracked/faded warning light plastic. Take a look.

It's kinda blurry but you get the point.

I bought these at Staples for a couple bucks, and they're soo worth it. They are kinda thin when you use 1 piece, so I doubled it up using 2 layers and it looks perfect. :D
It funny, cause those tabs are the first thing that came to my mind when I pulled my speedo apart, nice job, any progress on this lately?

Sun Mar 01, 2009 6:51 pm

ChromeWheels wrote: iaccy wrote:

This is the absolute best grinder attachment they sell!! It took all the old paint and sh*t off the floor in 2 seconds! Go buy one. :D

What is this called and what brand is it?
I need something like this bad.
The wire brush in a drill is tedious and takes a long while to get anywhere.
Besides that, I think I've just about burned up my old corded drill.

Great job you're doing. It's all looking very good.
I also bought some of the Master Series. Can't wait to use it.

Thanks for all the detailed pics.
Keeps 'em coming :!:

That's a milwaukee 4.5" electric grinder. It works great, I can't even begin to tell you wow much it's been through and it still works like a charm. I got the wire wheel from Sears. I know DeWalt makes a good twisted wire wheel, but I found Craftsman to be fine too. Make sure when you buy one to get a course wheel...it works better to get all the old crusty stuff off

Sun Mar 01, 2009 6:53 pm

freednighthawk wrote: What tire sizes are on that car? They look great.

And your work is goming along nicely. I cant wait untill I get a welder so I can start patching up the rusted areas in my 65 finally.

The fronts are 195/60/R15 and the back is 205/65/R15. The fronts are wayy to wide and stick out a tiny tiny bit from the front fenders...I think I'm gonna get a pair of 155/60's.

Thanks for the compliments :)

Sun Mar 01, 2009 7:17 pm

To be honest I can see a light at the end of the tunnel with this thing finally. It's still kinda cold/snowy in CT, so I've been doing a bunch of work in my basement with small parts that will eventually get put on in the next few weeks.

I've been replacing some gaskets on the motor, painting engine tin, and cleaning up other parts to go back on the engine.

Polishing dual ports. Before and after. :D

Painted exhaust.

Started sanding the rattled canned dash that didn't match any other part of the car after scraping bondo off the dash. If you noticed in the pics when I bought the car the PO bondo'd over the speaker grill and fuel gauge grill. :x

Bare dash

I started sanding the back of the glove box and thought the layers of paint/primer looked cool so I stopped there :D

I made super high tech fog light brackets

I love the lights!

This hole was covered with electrical tape when I bought the car, so I decided to fix it the right way.

anddd poof it's gone :)

The PO decided to hack more holes into the trunk area. It seems like the welder never goes away.

Those few tiny holes will be filled and no one will ever know it's there.

All done. Not professional but it gets the job done. I'm not looking for a show winner anyway.

I just had a local paint shop mix me some paint that matches the body of the car so I can have my primed fenders, engine tin and other things painted. Give me a month or two and it'll be put back together...hopefully.

Since the warm weather is coming I've been getting distracted with this. 2002 Honda XR50...Sooo worth it.

Thu Apr 02, 2009 4:39 pm

I got a bunchhhhh more work done over the past couple weeks.

POR 15 gas tank resto kit

Fresh insides :D

Cleaning up/degunking the engine

Rebuilt my Bocar 34-PICT 3

Check out all that sand/debris in there :cry:

Satin black engine compartment

Started sanding the door jams, doors and under dash to bare for paint

Taped off

PRimer

$74 worth of custom mixed spray cans later :roll:

The paint came out absolutely amazing for spray cans!!

Steering column painted and unmasked :D

Thu Apr 02, 2009 4:47 pm

This is the only work on teh car I didn't do on my own. Old high school friends are the best

Engine assembly with fresh painted tins

Euro tuck exhaust and header installed

Clean as a whistle!! :D

New fuel filter and I still have to put the heater tubes on :-)

Painted gas tank

Undercoated the bottom

Thoroughly undercoated everything that comes in contact with shit from teh road

Thu Apr 02, 2009 4:50 pm

Parts, parts and more parts

Rebuilt Z-Bar

Quick Roof from Home Depot, $16 a roll...25'x6" This is exactly how much one roll gets you

Sound deadening tool I made from an old rollerblade wheel to stick the stuff in the nooks and crannies. It worked awesome :D